RivVrgn
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Posts posted by RivVrgn
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On 12/21/2019 at 9:09 PM, 1965rivgs said:
Hi Joey,
The inner and outer fenders basically adjust as a unit. There are a few adjusting points that dont involve the inner fenderwells but you will not be required to remove the outer sheetmetal to adjust the inners...as a matter of fact that is a mistake many fall into, ie, they mount the inner fenders and after attempt to mount the outer sheetmetal which is very difficult because of a very pronounced flange over the top of the fenderwell. Best to assemble them as a unit off the car and install that unit as one assembly.
Tom Mooney
Ok, that sounds like a plan. So it sounds like I will still have to adjust both inner and outer to get things straight but just don't have to remove anything. I can deal with that, but it sounds like it will be a two person job, that combo can't be light? It just looks like it would be so much cleaner to take all this apart and paint it and reinstall. (plus repairing battery tray) Thanks for clearing this up.
Joey
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Greetings all, have a dilemma. Recently purchased a 65 that was someone else's project. Mostly original but they started redoing things with no real direction. So I've decided to redo as much as I can without doing a frame offend sort things out. Not a show car just a nice driver. It will be driven but just want to clean things up really good.
My question is, I have all of the sheet metal off the front end down to the inner fenders and radiator support. Was wondering how far to go down this rabbit hole. Are the inner fenders adjustable? If I remove them is there adjustments, alignments i need to do when i put them back on? May just leave them on if so because putting everything back together and aligning inner and outer fender, hood sounds like a real pain. Getting things back together and finding I need to realign the inner fender and take things back apart.... ugh.
Short question, are the inner fenders just bolt off bolt on?
Thanks Joey
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I use POR-15. It lays good with no brush strokes and the color is (i think) spot on. Just follow the directions, clean and degrease real good and apply it with a foam brush. And as with all POR-15 wear rubber gloves or you will wear it for a few weeks.
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Probably won’t be 20 probably around 10 to 13. I’ve had some people do a walk around with there phone with FaceTime..that way tell them look there, look at that, it helps a lot. I guess when it comes to the money part just trust my gut. Appreciate the input though.
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I am car shopping now and it seems nothing is close to me. How do you purchase a car from an individual out of state hundred of miles away? With smart phones now you can do a walk around and discuss things but still I’m not wiring 20k to someone I don’t really know with no way to track it. Do shippers get involved with the money exchange ( seems like a liability they would not want ) or is there a broker. Never done it before, I was always able to find something close. Thanks
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I used the POR 15 on my engine. My engine was in original condition when I got it. Just well used but ran great, so I just wanted to spruce it up a bit, but one thing led to another and I went further than I planned on. It was ( well while I have that off I should clean this or replace that ) just snowballed.
Removed accessories and as much from motor as possible, then cleaned and degreased, degreased, and then degreased. Applied the paint with a foam brush, it really lays down good, no brush strokes at all, even on the valve covers. first two are before. The flash makes it look a little lighter.
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Just thought I'd close the book on my problem. after fiddling with things, got a good ground and ended up bending the float on the new unit to match the old one (Bob). Still off a little bit, but in a good way, it reads lower than it is. So, at empty I have a few gallons left. thanks for all the input.
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Saw this coming through Alabama a few weeks ago. 63 or 4 Did not see a salvage yard or anything just a few what looked like garages. There was some woods way off the road beyond so, never know. (Was not climbing the fence in Alabama to see) Looked like the poor old girl had been up there a while. set of road wheels?
Joey
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I have narrowed it down to somewhere on the tank. Either a ground or the sending unit itself. I have, I think, a pretty good ground. the one I purchased said it was for a 65, but if it wasn't how would it read if anything?
Also this one is stainless, would that affect the operation of the unit?
I recall someone saying on here about someone who rebuilds original units but could not find anyone in the Riview. Does anyone know of someone in case I go that route?
thanks, Joey
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Good job Chris. did you use your glass you removed or new glass? If you reused, was yours in decent shape and how did you clean it? I'll probably be doing this soon and my glass is sound but just looks old, especially when the sun hits it ( spider webs in glass ). I would like to polish mine with something if it would work. I've seen stuff from Eastwood about polishing, I have no chips or deep scratches just a little hazy. Also, what tool did you use to remove your trim? thanks, Joey
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Joey,
When I put mine in I got no reading on my gauge. I adjusted it by bending the arm, similar to adjusting the float in a toilet, lol. Once I did this it now works fine. I am a quarter of a tank off, still need to fine tune it.
Bob
How was you adjusting done? Did you bend a little put it all back together, check it, take it apart again, bend a little more? wow. I guess I need to fill it uo to see how much I'm off then go from there. thanks Bob
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When you bought the unit off eBay; how was it described? If it said 63 - 65, the seller didn't know there is a difference. The '63 - 64 uses a 45 ohm sender, and the '65 uses a 90 ohm sender. Perhaps you've got the wrong one????? Hope not.
If it's possible, take the complete sending unit and the gauge to an electronics guy who can test them as a unit.
Ed
yeah, i thought that too Ed. It was bought as a 65 unit. like I said a few other people on here bought them and they worked fine. The thing that stumps me is the unplugging of the gauge and it goes to full. I am hoping for a fix that I don't have to drop the tank again, but it's not looking that way. thanks Ed
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Hello fellas, have a problem with my gauge accuracy. A few years ago I replaced my sending unit because gauge was not reading correctly, gauge was showing less than what was in tank,(checked gauge by grounding it and it worked). Unit was original too and it showed when I removed it.
Anyway did not drive much last year so it wasn't an issue, but hopefully this year is different.
I bought a unit off e-bay that some others on hear had bought and said worked. when I installed it I also put an extra ground on it. put ten gallons in and reads just above E, if I disconnect the ground it changes nothing. If I disconnect the hot wire (yellow) gauge goes to full. I don't think it's the unit i'm thinking my hot wire is grounding out somewhere along the line.
I don't want to put more gas in it to see what it does if I just have to take it out to drop the tank again. when I had the tank out everything got cleaned and painted thats why I put an extra ground on it.
Is there an adjustment on those units? I just dropped mine in.
Any help is appreciated.
thanks Joey
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Pretty cool, I'm getting ready to do the same thing. I was going to do something more labor intensive but, not now, I like your deal. I saw your other post, are the body mounts you used here the same (66-67 chevelle) as there? thanks Joey
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I don't know where you are located but, I have a 65 for sale. Do a search on this forum " 65 for sale " to see the details. Don't know what you are looking for but check it out.
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Got them working. Not really sure, I cleaned everything real good, replaced the bulbs and rewrapped the wires I cut to remove the trailer plug. I think my wrap job wasn't insulating enough. Plus I don't think the lights have been removed for ages. Thanks for all the input as always.
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I have to assume that you're talking about the '65 in your signature line. If the '65 is like the 63's and 64's, the ground is through the housing and the body. Lot's of problems have occurred on other cars because of poor grounds and folks with add a different tail lamp socket (three wire) with a specific ground wire and then find a good ground for those new wires. If I were you, I would connect a wire to the housing and ground it and see if that cures your problems. If so, leave it attached or replace the sockets with new three wire socket so you'll have dedicated ground. If someone replaced the original metal sockets with plastic ones, you'll need a dedicated ground wire.
Ed
Thanks Ed, Yeah this is my 65. I removed the bumper to get the angle off. while off I removed the lights and lenses to clean them. Put them back and I have brake lights (with key on is this right) but no tails. Replaced bulbs today to start fresh.I guess the ground I removed was not a Buick ground but someone might have done it to remedy this problem. Can I ground a wire that goes to all lights or does it have to be each one? thanks
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Yes, thats right I said trailer wires. I'm sure this was state of the art then, but...... I had a trailer hitch of some kind mounted to my car sometime in the past. It consisted of 1/4 inch angle iron welded about 12 inches or so up the side frame rails and all the way across the back frame rail from side to side. a wiring harness of some sort with a plug on the end spliced into the tail light harness. Safe as could be I'm sure.
Anyway, have since removed everything. There was a wire grounding the harness to the body. Now my tail lights are not operating properly. My question is was that wire there before the trailer wires? Did I remove a factory ground? It sounds like a bad ground but if that was supposed to be there I will replace it first. Should the brake lights work with the key off? I probably just disturbed 40 years of connections and just need to clean everything real good.
Any wisdom will be greatly appreciated since its getting that time of year. Thanks. Joey
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Ed, the story I read said, GM's copyright ran out and no one noticed until someone at the patent office noticed, ( who just happened to have a relative that was an executive at toyota)and contacted them and tada. Some said toyota would ransom it back to GM but I haven't heard. I think it happened after they ceased production. With all the shakeup in the industry they (GM) just let it slip, oops.
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Yes, I saw it too.
Also, did you notice that GM/Buick has re-registered ownership of the Riviera name/trademark? Could this mean they intend to resurrect the model? Or do they just want to preserve the name so another automaker doesn't try to use it?
GM is probably very aware of model names and trademarks after they lost oldsmobile to Toyota a few years back.
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Just an observation, anyone see this weeks episode of Motorweek on Velocity? In the segment Goss' Garage there was a beautiful 65 cream color riv in the bay behind him. Seems like they pop up everywhere.
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Excellent point! I will have to check that out. Yes it will need a ground, so I will for sure add one now that I have it all painted. Thanks Chuck!
Hey Rob just did this (painted tank) and was wondering since it's been a while since your post if you installed your tank yet and if you used a ground. If so where did you put it? I guess a screw on the sending unit to the frame? Hope everything worked out. If anybody else has an answer chime in Thanks.
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Since we're on the topic of fuel tank finishes, I thought you might be interested to see a nice example of the original tank finish on the '65 GS I'm currently working on. The tank was amazingly well preserved. The picture of the markings show how it looked when I first removed it and cleaned the accumulated dust/dirt off the top surface. The part number and mfg. info was stenciled with some kind of semi-transparent blue ink. The second picture shows the bottom of the tank after removing the old undercoating. It looks so nice I just put it back in without any additional coatings.[/quote
WOW.... that's all I have to say...
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Curious why do you think you need a coating?
As for the finish yes they were galvanized metal and there is no paint that simulates it. Eastwoods Tank Tone isn't close to the original galvanized look in my opinion but despite that it is widely accepted in point judged shows and many use it. Tank Tone is an excellent example of good marketing. Eastwood has some great products but saying this stuff makes your tank look like it came off the assembly line is really stretching it. Having said that I've used it for lack of anything better. I found Seymour Alumi-blast is a dead ringer for Tank Tone and may be easier and cheaper to find.
Wire wheeling will change the appearance of the galvanized metal and if there is any rust that area will look different. Pretty tough to clean up a tank and restore to the orginal finish. Almost always people will prefer to see either a uniform clean look (painted) or an original untouched tank in good condition.
You'll just have to try wire wheeling a section and see what it looks like. You are the one that has to be satisfied. If you don't like it you can paint it.
there are a few repairs on small holes done somewhere down the road and some flakes, pieces of something came out of it, so really just peace of mind. As far as painting i just didn't want to go black just for cosmetics, because everything else around it is black. granted not many people will be under it looking at it but i'll know. it's not a show car just a real good driver. thanks
65 switch pitch connection
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Hey all, I'm doing a light resto on my 65 but not removing drivetrain, just refreshing things. So expect other inquiries. Went to unplug it from trans and can't get it off. Don't want to force it if there is a certain way. It does turn a little, should it turn and pull off? Or just pull off with some encouragement? I can get some good leverage by grabbing it with some spark plug boot pliers. Just need to know if I should pry and pull? thanks Joey