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Lockhouse

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Posts posted by Lockhouse

    49 Headlights

    in Buick - Post War

    Posted

    Hi,

    I've just lost the headlights on my '49 Super. All the other lights are working OK, but both the main headlight units have suddenly stopped working. I know there's no fuse for them - I believe it's a thermal relay. Any idea where I should start looking for the problem?

    Thanks,

    Andy

    Speedometer Head fix?

    in Buick - Post War

    Posted

    See here.

    I have just been through this. The speedo must turn without catching. If it does not there is always the chance it will bind at speed and snap the cable. I tried using lube at first but it made no difference. If the cable does catch at best you will have is a speedo needle that wavers back and forth when fitted. Since I had mine rebuilt it's rock steady.

    Mine was catching slightly then maybe after 30 secs or maybe after five minutes it would all of a sudden completely bind and then - wham! Another busted cable.

    I ended up spending $250 to get it rebuilt - works great now.

    Keep getting punctures

    in Buick - Post War

    Posted

    Thanks very much for your replies. At the weekend I took the two punctured wheels into my local tire shop. The mechanic there spent a couple of hours on them. He sanded down the wheels to remove any surface rust and sharp edges then attempted to fit a tubless tire. He couldn't manage this because the valve hole on the wheels was too large for a standard car valve. He suggested that a truck or agricultural tire fitter who might be able to help. Has anyone else heard of this? Anyway we smothered the new tubes in talcum powder and fitted them. They were not "radial" tubes as such as I haven't yet been able to find any in the UK.

    So there are two options that I will pursue when (if) the punctures recur; Fit tubless tyres with a larger valve seat. I will take the spare wheel into my local farm tire shop to see if they can help in the meantime. I will also keep searching for radial tubes.

    Thanks,

    Andy

    Keep getting punctures

    in Buick - Post War

    Posted

    OK - thanks again. I will take the two burst wheels in at the weekend and have them re-fit the tires with no tubes and see what happens. That seems to be the easiest solution. In the interim I will also mail the supplier and see if the tubes are supposed to be used with radials. I am more and more certain there is abrasion or adherence between the tyre and tube causing the side of the tube to split.

    Andy

    Keep getting punctures

    in Buick - Post War

    Posted

    Thanks for the replies.

    My tires (I will try to spell "properly" from now on) are Goodrich Momentum 225/75/R15 Tubeless Radials with a 3/4" whitewall. I bought them six months ago and have covered less that 1000 miles. They can be seen here.

    The tubes I bought are here.

    Is there a fundamental mismatch?

    If the tires are designed to be tubeless why do they deflate when the tube bursts?

    The wheels are riveted rather than welded so I thought I could not fit tubeless tires?

    Thanks,

    Andy

    Keep getting punctures

    in Buick - Post War

    Posted

    Hi

    I keep getting punctures on my 52 Buick Sedan. I've had 6 in the past three months - all on different wheels. The garage says that the sides of the tubes have burst rather than something going through the tyre. I am running standard wheels with tubed tyres which I replaced six months or so ago - prior to that the car was not in my ownership.

    Any ideas what might be the cause?

    How easy is it to change to tubeless tyres? My '49 Sedan appears to have tubeless tyres - why not on my '52?

    Thanks,

    Andy

    '49 Buick Drivers Door Handle Assembly

    in Buick - Buy/Sell

    Posted

    Hi,

    I'm after the driver's side door handle assembly (the whole thing) from INSIDE the door of a '49 Buick type 51 four door sedan. It's the whole mechanism from inside the door that connects to the outside lock plate and outside door handle - NOT the interior handle and NOT the outside door handle - just the mechanism. There are pressed parts and rivets in it that make it really difficult just to have new parts machined and parts of mine have literally worn to nothing. I'm in the UK.

    Thanks very much,

    Andy

    Dynaflow question

    in Buick - Post War

    Posted

    Will do thanks! I've been searching the web and it does look like they may well be the culprits.

    Business is good too! It's only our first year of trading, so it's been a very steep learning curve but things are going well so far. I also have a day job so we've got as much on as we can handle at the moment. I'm doing a 60th birthday and a prom on Friday using Betty (our '52) and we have a few weddings over the summer months using both cars. It's an absolute pleasure being able to drive them. I just keep telling myself - every job brings me closer to being able to afford a 76C!

    Plus we even get to use the girls ourselves sometimes! :)

    Thanks again for the reply.

    Dynaflow question

    in Buick - Post War

    Posted

    Hi,

    On my '49 Super when I try to go over a bump or kerb in reverse gear and don't give it enough power to climb it there's a huge shuddering from the dynaflow that makes a lot of noise and shakes the whole drivetrain. It's OK reversing on hills etc, but it's just if I have to get over say, a speed hump (or reverse up the kerb onto my drive, that's how I found out about it). Is that normal or indicative of something going wrong and I'm worrying too much?

    Thanks,

    Andy

    Windlace

    in Technical

    Posted

    Thanks for the link. They are the only people who knew what I was talking about! Apparently when it's 1/4 inch windlace it's actually called coachlace. They only have it in tan so I'm going to dye it to match when it arrives.

    Andy

    Windlace

    in Technical

    Posted

    Hi,

    Does anyone know where I can get some 1/4 inch cloth covered windlace for the doors on my '49 Buick Super? Plenty of places do the 1/2 type but the original that runs around the tops of the doors appears to be 1/4.

    Thanks,

    Andy

    1952 Super - Speedo Cable Woes

    in Buick - Post War

    Posted

    Hi,

    As suspected the speedo head was faulty. I connected one end of the cable to an electric drill. It worked OK for 30 seconds then jammed solid. In real operation it would have sheared the cable instead of wrapping it around the drill bit. It was also impossible to turn the cable with my fingers. I am going to get the head unit rebuilt locally.

    Thanks again,

    Andrew

    '49 Super steering rod

    in Buick - Post War

    Posted

    Please could someone confirm whether the left hand side steering rod that runs from the main steering shaft to the left wheel on my '49 Super is supposed to have a bend in it? It's the rod that's about 15 inches or so long.

    Mine has a 5 or 10 degree bend about half-way down and I'm not sure if it was supposed to have one or if it was meant to be straight and has picked up a bump.

    Thanks,

    Andy

    Dome Light Removal

    in Buick - Post War

    Posted

    If it's the same as a '52 there are four little clips inside the plastic part of the light, that clip inside the metal cover however I've broken one of these lights by trying to remove the plastic part directly. What I eventually did was prise the metal surround away from the headlining and the dome light comes away with it.

    1952 Windshield Washers

    in Buick - Post War

    Posted

    I was having issues with the windshield washers on my 52 Super as they weren't working (one was feeble, the other was not working at all). The wipers were working fine. I disconnected the washer vacuum tube from the washer switch, replaced all the hoses and inserted a manual vacuum switch (the kind with a plunger\pump) and connected it from the washer bottle to the washer jets directly thinking that it couldn't fail to work. Wrong!

    Even though there is definitely fluid in the washer hose it's not reaching the wipers when I pump. In fact I encounter pressurised resistance from the washers as if they were not open. I suspected the wipers might have needed to be running for the hoses to work but even with the wipers running I'm encountering this back pressure and consequently the washers are not working. I have tested the fluid flow and it is definitely reaching the wiper mechanisms. I could understand one jet being blocked but two? And the fact that I'm experiencing a total pressure block leads me to believe it's something more fundamental. Is it the case that a manual pump cannot be used because of the operation of the wipers themselves? I'd be grateful for any ideas.

    Thanks,

    Andy

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