Lockhouse

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About Lockhouse

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  • Birthday 10/09/1962

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    http://www.bluemooncars.co.uk
  1. Thanks Willie - much appreciated.
  2. Hi, I just want to make sure that my 1949 Buick Super should have a vented gas filler cap? She runs for about half an hour then the gas to the carb dries up. Open the gas tank and she's fine again for another half an hour....I suspect the vent may be blocked or a non-vented cap has been fitted and the vacuum is building up in the tank until the fuel pump can no longer draw against it. Does that make sense? Everything else in the fuel line has been replaced and appears OK. Thanks, Andy
  3. Well, I removed the starter switch, blew on it a few times, put it back and away she goes like nothing had happened, started first time. I'm spitting feathers. If I wanted to bypass the carb switch for starting, is it just a matter of fitting a starter switch under the dash and connecting the two starter switch wires from the carb to it? Will that affect the carb in any way? Thanks, Andy
  4. Thanks very much for that reply Joe, I jumped the carb switch and she started so it must be that. I'll take it apart and see what I can make of it. Kind regards, Andy
  5. Fitted new coil, still the same. Nothing.
  6. The central HT lead going into the coil literally fell apart when I was looking for faults. Would this cause the problem or is it something else?
  7. A bit more info; I had the carb rebuilt three months ago. I have 6.2 volts across the carb vacuum switch.
  8. All of a sudden my '49 Super refuses to start. I have a good battery, the fuel pump is running and I have fuel, I put my foot on the accelerator and nothing at all happens. She has been running like clockwork recently. I noticed this a couple of times last week and the next time I put my foot on the throttle she started. Today, she turned over and fired OK, but I took my foot off the throttle before she was warm, she stalled (normal) and then I put my foot back on the throttle and nothing at all. Does this sound like a vacuum switch failure? Anything else I can easily check? Big wedding on Friday.... Thanks
  9. Just to say that the whole box of fuses I bought was faulty....indicators and brake lights now sorted.
  10. Cheers Ben - will do. Cheers brh - they are on the same fuse but it may be a bad connect from the ignition as Ben suggests. I will check.
  11. OK, I've lost the indicators and brake lights on my 52 Super. I changed the fuse and this didn't fix it, changed the flasher unit and this didn't either. I remover the inspection plate from under the hood and direct wired across the fuse terminals both front and back, still no luck. Any ideas what else I can check before I call an auto-electrician? Thanks, Andy
  12. Anyway, I went back and reinstalled the vacuum switch. It was quite fiddly as I couldn't get the ball to position correctly but managed it eventually. So now I have a working car with no sign of the starting fault and am now waiting to see if the problem re-occurs. One thing though, now I've cleaned and reassembled the vacuum switch, the engine seems to be running a little faster on tickover. Is this a normal consequence of replacing\rebuilding the switch? Cheers, Andy
  13. I got mine rebuilt at Apple Hydraulics.
  14. If anyone ever reads this thread with the same problem, this is a Carter Vacuum Switch...
  15. Typically I couldn't reproduce the fault. I took the top off the new relay and it was just that - new. I didn't think that would be the problem as it made a huge difference to the engine turning over when I first fitted it. Mike - I took off the switch and it's dry, dirty and sticking to some extent inside. I'm not sure if that was the cause of the problem, but it definitely does need a good clean and lubricate. I am not back at the car until next weekend now so I will clean it this week, refit it next weekend and see what heppens. Thanks to all for your help.