Roger Zimmermann
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Posts posted by Roger Zimmermann
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Some progress was done at the floor; it's now definitively attached to the cowl as the two remaining cross members at the rear will just be glued on the side rails.
The remaining open space at the rear will be closed with brass.
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4 hours ago, Slawnski said:
Roger,
what kit is that? Very detailed, looking good.
It's not a kit, but scratch built. Can be seen here: Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models - Page 96 - Our Cars & Restoration Projects - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org)
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Interesting construction! I'm about in the same process with my scale model (1:12), but will be limited to the floor!
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While I was at it, I continued with the floor. There is mainly wood, but there are also large steel panels which were installed. What I’m doing is more or less correct; some elements are done the way I think they may be correct. As reference, I’m using many pictures from a ’32 All Weather Phaeton which has a different floor at the rear than the convertible. I have also some good pictures from Paul, some from a LaSalle convertible (same body as I’m doing), the mix will give something not too far from the reality.
Before I can glue some crossmembers, I have to finish the milling from the side rails, otherwise, when assembled, I will not be able to perform more machining.
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Thanks Alex, it's exactly what I was needed! Due to the tiny width, I probably will not be able to replicate the original system. But I will find a way.
@Don: thanks ! Yes, we can thake it that way: my 29th again! Stainless stell is not easy to weld; take care of that Swiss coin!
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Thanks Gunsmoke for the pictures and explanation about the hood. I have several pictures from the 1932 hood from a V-8 model; the V-16 is similar, just a bit longer...The hinges are a bit diferent than the one you are showing, anyway, similar. A man located in the Netherlands restored a '32 V-8; I have many pictures from various systems; unfortunately, he restored an all weather phaeton. The front of the body is identical to the one I'm doing, the back is of course different. I'm waiting from him a dimension to be able to continue with the hood. I'm attaching one of his pictures showing which dimension I would like to have. Maybe Alex D. could take it from his own car; the parts are the same!
There are periods which I’m doing a bit from this or that. Due to the reasons I described recently about the hood (see also above), I began to tackle the body’s floor. It’s mainly a wood construction, but not only. I began with the side beams which are connected to the cowl and go till the end of the car. The beams were screwed at the cowl; when I’m ready for that, I will glue them, it better against road vibrations!
I’m using plywood for those beams: strong enough and light.
The outer lines are not yet trimmed. All will be done in due time…
I’m also adding the promised picture from the hood’s buck. I wanted to buy a transparent product for the wood but I choose the wrong one. I'll get the clear one next week, but to bend the hood panels on the buck, that white stuff will be also OK..jpg.1e7798c399141902c330ea49d443c686.jpg)
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From an old book, "catalog of American cars ID numbers 1950-1959", I see for 1957 Lincoln: 747/757A: Coral/Black. In that book, the number 747 is not alone. Therefore, I'm not sure if that's correct.
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On 8/13/2024 at 7:26 PM, 61polara said:
The data plate should not be painted.
I'm not sure, but this tag is a reproduced one: the font for the trim and paint are not at all "GM like".
On my 3 Cadillacs from the fifties, the tag was not painted but masked when the body was painted. The data plate from my '72 Cadillac is covered at 30% with black overspray.
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8 hours ago, Mike "Hubbie" Stearns said:
Looking good! You might want to wait a day or so before you start masking the spokes up.
Is that enough? I would wait myself a week or two.
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The Hydramatic from 1956 to 1963 are more or less my "specialty". I don't know the previous models, but something is looking similar: the torus cover assembly from your last picture.
The hub is most probably welded to the torus.
Last year I had a problem with a '56 Hydramatic: there was a massive oil leak.I replaced the seal, but the leak was still there. After some message exchange with people I know, I did a leak test with the torus cover assembled with the flywheel, inflating the whole with air. To my relief, there was a leak at the weld. A small local shop rewelded the neck; the issue was solved.
The first picture is the assembly with compressed air ; the second picture is showing the new weld.
I don't know if the previous Hydramatic transmissions had this issue. If you can test it you are then sure that tho problem is at another place.
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For what I could see, the disc is rotating like an egg. Is that sufficient to induce vibration? When looking at a previous picture, that disc is looking good.
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Cadillac models from the fifties have the same issue. You can deflate the tires to remove/instal them, but how will you do if you have a flat during a trip? The sole method which is acceptable: you have to lift the rear with the bumper jack till one rear wheel is no more contacting the floor. Due to the suspension geometry, there will be just enough clearance between tire and wheel aperture.
If you don't like the bumper jack idea: lift the car; use jacks at the frame and, with a shop jack push on end of the differential as high as you can. You will have the same effect as with the bumper jack. Cumbersome, yes, but there is no other method.
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Thanks Randy! If the car is the correct year range (32-33) I'll have certainly wishes...
Glad you appreciate that whine, but the one from 1952 may be like vinegar!
All elements from the front end are tied together: the cowl, the radiator surround, the central hood hinges, the upper hood panels and so on.
To have the cowl at its correct position, a bit of the floor should be done, the buck for the hood panels is also needed. It’s done, but the battery for the camera decided to go empty, therefore the picture will come later. Another element is also needed: the molding between hood and cowl. The purpose from this molding is not clear to me; I have the impression that it’s just an artifice to hide the misalignment between hood and cowl: as some identical body styles were used on V-8, V-12 and V-16 frames, the line cowl/hood cannot be flowing.
Anyway, I finished this molding as the shape of the cowl is now set. I added a small lip which go over the cowl, hiding the imperfection of the cowl where the molding is meeting it.
Thanks to Johan, I got details how the hood is articulated at the middle. I’m not sure if I will be able to replicate the original system as it required three profiles which must be almost perfect.
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No, no! we are in Switzerland. No way to be in france and get exposed to excessive temperatures! We like to go there, but we are also well here!
"Fortunately", wines in my cellar never get that old! The older ones I have for the moment are Pomerol from 2016. Good wine, but never in the same class as a Château Lafite! Depending how the wines are stored, such old wines can be fantastic or just like vinegar...
If the car from your new friend is from 1932 or 1933 and the body is from Fisher, there are details I may be interested! Too much "ifs" to tell you what to photograph. From the man living in the Netherlands, I have hundreds pictures, but so few dimensions...
A bit of filler to correct some irregularities and a coat of primer is making a lot of difference! As it can be seen on the attached pictures, the surface is not yet ready for paint. The cowl will stay that way for some more time, but now I have a good base to continue towards the front or the rear.
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On the real cars, the dash is attached on the side with 4 screws in total. I could replicate the brackets, but I could not put any screws due to the position. Therefore, I changed the way of attachment: the dash will rest on two lateral supports having a provision for a bolt each side.
The upper part of the dash is also fixed to the wood structure with four or five screws. I have no wood structure, but I could solder two small brackets for the to be born dash.
I also realized that the job with soldering was not yet over: the lower part of the body has a rather large molding which was pressed into the sheet metal. I used solid brass to replicate the molding. There is also a less wide in-pressed molding running the length of the car; I soldered two bits of brass at a location I hope is more or less correct in “altitude” and they should be horizontal. It could be that I will have to rework those short moldings when the hood will be done.
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The insulation is more about noise than heat! As my engine is making absolutely no noise even at 10k RPM, I can skip this unnecessary heavy material!
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The auxiliary firewall is indeed not a complicated part. With a large die, the flange could be bend, making a one-piece part. As such a die would be rather large, I opted for a multi-parts affair, with the upper and side flanges soft soldered to the base. I could use again the die I did for the lower section from the main firewall.
The original part is attached to the main firewall with several nuts located very near from the flange. I simplified this methos by using just a few nuts. Contrary to the original vehicle, I will not ad insulation material between both parts!
The next step: I will solder to the assembly the brackets to attach the dashboard. Both brackets should be the last parts requiring soldering.
Without destructive heat, I will then use plastic filler to correct some irregularities.
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Boy, those front bumpers for the US market are so ugly!
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Those details are so easy to do (OK, not all are in this category), it would be a shame to skip them!
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Even if the alignment from the vent door is far from perfect (it will be corrected in due time), the system operates more or less the same as the original one: a rod is rotating one hinge to open or close the vent; three or four positions can be set.
The rod is not yet done because its position will be dictated when the dash is done.
When completely open that vent could act as an aero-brake!
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You will no to study a long time: the tires must be replaced!
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Thanks Randy and Pat. There is a huge difference between the way I could do the Mark II and this project: with the Mark II, I had some very accurate and interesting drawings, plus the possibility to get at cars located at 10 miles from home. I had the chance to get at a frame and engine some years ago, but there is no drawing available. I have many picturesfrom elements which are common or similar between the V-8 and V-16 cars and that' it. The consequence: all elements are approximate in shape and dimension. Is that important? In fact no. At the end, it's just a scale model without any pretension other than entertain you and me!
With the addition of the pods for the wipers and rear view mirror, the windshield frame is ready. However, there will be still some elements to ad like the inner moldings. I will have the choice to make them in real wood or painted brass. If the original parts are attached with screws; mines will be glued because of past negative experience.
I will now do the ventilation door from the cowl.
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Can you bring back the set telling the store that there is an issue with the larger puller?
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The windshield frame is almost ready. Two difficulties did my life harder: the décor at the corner from the windshield’s post and the frame itself was not flat, but the base has a slight radius towards the rear. With a multitude of brass bits those difficulties could be overcome.
Still missing: the pods for the wipers and one for the rear view mirror. Those 3 parts will also be silver soldered on the assembly.
I also have to ad two pins which are used to locate the convertible top when closed.
After that, a good detailing and polishing should make a decent windshield frame.
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.jpg.1e7798c399141902c330ea49d443c686.jpg)
Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted
Thanks Don and Keith for the comments!
Well Don, my obsession as a child was "cars" and my parents did not have one! When I realized that the Meccano could not help a lot with bodies, I did them with cardboard. Then, with humid cardboard to allow to bent the cardboard in two planes. The the fiberglass went in; the rest is history!