carmover
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Posts posted by carmover
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I think I have One of the headlights Which is complete with a good lens. I will try to get you a picture on here And see if this is what you need
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What is the fuel needle start up setting for a 23 Buick. I am talking about the initial setting to start car before final adjustment.I opened mine 1 full turn and set the air even with the ratchet is this correct? Should it start?
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Hugh, it doesn't have a working vacuum tank.Someone gutted the vacuum tank and installed an electric pump and regulator and ran a copper line through the vacuum tank to the carb.Unlike on my 25 the carb hasn't been modified to stand any extra pressure.I am going to empty the carb bowl, drain the tank and blow lines out and replace fuel filter. and remove the inlet pipe at the tank and check the screen . Then refuel with fresh non ethanol fuel.
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Robert one of the mechanics said the gas had a funny smell to it but to me and the other 2 guys said it smelled like regular gasoline.I have been running non ethanol fuel in all of my cars but I did do one questionable thing I put 5 gallons of regular gas on top of the non ethanol fuel.Another thing is the mechanics said the way it is starting to want to run but won't fully start is characteristically bad fuel or water in the fuel.I am thinking about draining and cleaning the whole fuel system.And whatever this is coming from the tank is getting to the combustion chambers.
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I had three of the best old car mechanics working with me all day yesterday we got the car firing on all six and we did a cold valve adjustment and the car is almost starting but not starting.It is hitting and is making the last sound you hear before the engine starts but is not quiet starting.I set the carb adjustment with the fuel needle opened 1 full turn and the air turned even with the ratchet.We pulled the car down the road and never could get it to crank.We also checked the timing and is right on the money.We are getting a lot closer but not cranking yet.Any Ideas will be welcome.
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Thanks Hugh,I will try the jumper wire and see if it motors.
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I looked a little more closely and the small commutator is more up in the housing and is not going to be too easy to get to. You can't really see it in the pictures but the housing covers over half of the smaller commutator.
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Hugh Is there any way to turn the armature so I can clean the back side of the commutator.I may be able to cut a strip of sandpaper and use it like a belt around the commutator but if i can't turn it I can't clean the Mica out of the grooves on the back of it.I have an xacto knife that I believe will work to clean out the grooves. The commutator looks better in person than in the picture it is still pretty shiny but has some black on it.
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It is hard to get good pictures in such a tight space but here is some more.
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4 minutes ago, Hubert_25-25 said:
I don't think it is a brush issue. I think it is a commutator issue. The question is if you can reach the commutator with the SG still in place. Two photos of the 1925 Starter Generator. The narrow spaced commutator is for the generator. This is the only one you need to clean. In the 2nd photo, just the cover was removed, but you can get to the generator commutator and clean it. Notice how black it is. You may be able to remove the lower brushes and get to the commutator as well.
Can you remove your cover and take a picture as I am not entirely familiar with your style SG unit?
Thanks Hugh I will get you one right now.I wish this one was as easy as the 25 style.
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Here are the lower brushes.They are showing a lot of ware and the commutator is shiny.and it is definitely not motoring. are these the ones that control the motoring.The springs are pulling the brushes up to the stops which is as far as they are allowed to go.I wonder if I can find and replace these 2 brushes it will fix my problem.The top brush is standing off of the comm and I am thinking this must be the start brush.As I stated before the engine turns over fine once I get it to mesh.
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The car is leaving here next Weekend and heading for California.The 25 Buick left here last Weekend.I need to get this car as right as I can but don't have a lot of time.I am just wondering which brush I need to mess with.
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Is the 3rd brush the motoring brush? The engine will turn over when starter pedal is depressed and it seams to be charging fine but you have to keep stomping on the starter pedal and it will eventually go down and I am not hearing it motoring.
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I forgot to mention that my 23 Buick has a 22 or earlier engine in it and the S/G looks like this.
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My 23 Buick is not motoring and I am wondering if the brushes that control the motoring can be cleaned,adjusted or replaced without removing the start Generator.If not how much different is the 23 S/G to remove than on the 25?
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Jon, what I did to make stand alone power was make a rectangular 2x4 box cut a bottom plate from plywood and used a lawnmower 12 volt battery.These batteries don't have a lot of cold cranking amps but are sufficient for cameras and portable turn signals.I installed a cigarette lighter receptical as most of the portable cameras plug in.The only problem with using wood is the receptical needs grounding.To do this I ran a small ground wire with an alligator clip so it could be grounded under the dash.Most major auto parts stores have a good selection of portable backup cameras both wired and wireless.
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Remember Terry my 23 has a 22 engine in it and uses those very parts that are in Tom's picture.On the cap it cannot be put on wrong and as I have said the car ran great a few days ago and if one wire was not sparking I would say it was a bad wire but when none are sparking I wouldn't think they would suddenly go bad at one time.The cap also passed the continuity test just fine all insulators are in place and I see no signs of arking anywhere in the distributor.It has 6 volts going to the coil and correct voltage to the points which are firing every time they break but with weak white fire.The spark doesn't look like it should.Tom is sending me a replacement Condenser tomorrow.I have high hopes that this will fix it if not I thank you guys sticking with me.
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The plug wires are copper and are in the correct firing order..The car ran perfectly a few days ago when I drove on a 10 mile trip but when I shut it off in the garage and then came back 2 days later it wouldn't hit at all it would just flood.I have checked everything and it has week fire at the points when they break which is a good indication that the condenser is not working.Tom and I are checking this out to see if that is the case.
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This Rotor is the spring top type and is new old stock and I have inspected it very carefully and it is perfect.I don't see how it could short
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Thanks Gentlemen,I have checked everything out carefully and Ben I know why You asked that cause I have been there and done that.
2 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said:I wouldn't put the bad mouth on Tom - I know him and he is a friend of mine. I am referring to parts that come from Napa, O'Reilly's, and AutoZone. Just about everything that these guys peddle is non-American made and there lies the problem. From what you are saying here you are going to have to check every piece with a Multi Meter for continuity and rule out each and every piece as you go. I am not an electrical genius, but when you get to a point where the current stops, it sorta makes sense to me that may be where the problem lies. Condensers are not a high dollar item. If I were in your shoes I'd buy a half dozen of them and try each one until you find one that works. Take the unneeded ones back for a refund. A lot less aggravation going that route. It sorta sounds like you are between that proverbial rock and a hard spot. What you really need to do here is shake ol' Jim Beam's hand, have a couple of good shots and get a good night's sleep and start anew with a fresh day. You absolutely have to have the mindset that that old Buick ain't gonna whip you. If you throw up your hands and holler - it wins and you lose. There's a bug under the chip somewhere and you just ain't found it yet. If each and every piece in your wiring system checks OK for continuity, I'd put my money on the condenser. Keep us posted.
Terry Wiegand
South Hutchinson, Kansas
Thanks Terry,I have checked everything out and everything is pointing to the Condenser And I certainly wasn't bad mouthing Tom.He took good care of me and I got some real good New Old stock parts from him.I just want him to guide me through the testing procedure on the Condenser and if it turns out bad swap it out for me.I have checked out everything from the battery,Switch ,Coil,Cap,rotor, wires and Plugs.With Tom's help we should be able to see if it is the problem or rule it out.By the way this Condenser is not one of the round ones it is the one that takes up half of the distributor.And I have learned a lot from You Guys and I won't let this Buick whip me.
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Terry the condenser was rebuilt exchange by Tom Van meeteren and all of the parts I got was new old stock and perfect.Every thing checks out perfectly and I have a call in for Tom and see what we can figure out.I have a brand new coil that I got from Restoration supply and I checked it with a meter and it also passed the spark test.
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Here is what I have come up with.When the engine turns over I took the coil wire out of the cap and it is firing like it is supposed to with the coil getting 6 volts.I cleaned up the contacts on the cap and cleaned up the rotor button I checked all wire to make sure that they are secure in the cap and on the plugs. The distributor is turning and the points are properly gapped and breaking and have very weak white fire.I installed a fresh new set of plugs gapped to 40. I have no fire going to the plugs at all.With the weak white fire I am suspecting that the condenser is going to be my problem.
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Thanks Rod, They are firing every time they break as the engine is turning over.
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My 23 Buick has strong fire at the points but no fire going to the plugs.Everything is brand new coil, points, Condenser, Rotor ,cap wires and Plugs.Last week I took it for a drive with no problems and parked it in my front yard all day later in the evening I started it right up and pulled it into the garage and shut it off.2 days later I went out early in the morning and tried to start it and it wouldn't hit at all and it flooded..I found that the plugs were gas fowled so I put in a fresh set of plugs and still no start.I can break the points with a screwdriver and they have healthy fire.I had a friend come over today and he spun the motor over with the switch on while I held the plug wire close to the plug and found no fire at all there. What am I missing?
Looking for 1917 Buick D-45 headlights
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
I am hoping somebody will steer us in the right direction I have no idea what it fits it came with a bunch of parts that I got with my 23 Buick Sedan And I have no use for it and hope somebody can use it