Bob Engle
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Posts posted by Bob Engle
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Afraid not Mark. Till I get the front spring replaced, and some sort out time plus still working on my 60 Buick and 32 Buick. There just are not enough hours in a day.
Hershey will probably be it's first drive and show in HPOF.
Bob
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I"ve wanted a pre20's touring car for many years. Dream fulfilled today. An unrestored car got delivered today. I plan to keep it as much unrestored as possible and drive it regularly.
Unfortunately, the front spring main leaf gave out on the trip. So my first job is to removed the front spring.
I've included a photo of me and my dad, so you can see I liked the Buicks early in life.
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For cdilljr edification, A puller has the same threads that are on the cap. it has a threaded bolt in the center. You screw the puller onto the hub as if you were putting the cap on. Then you tighten the center bolt until the hub pops loose. The hub is mounted on a tapered axle shaft and it takes considerable force to break it loose. All this is on the condition that Terry is correct .
Bob Engle
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The early 30"s Buicks have brass spherical thrust washers behind the spider gears. I would have removed the center block and checked the thrust surfaces on the spiders.
Bob Engle
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Terry:
Do you think ethanol free gas is a good choice? It is available at a number of stations locally.
Bob Engle
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I have to jump in and comment on the use of ridge reamers. The ridge forms because the top ring can't wipe to the top of the cylinder. If the reamer is set to only cut the ridge, you can't destroy the cylinder. The purpose for removing the ridge is to allow the piston to come out the top without causing any damage. You can use a hone, but care must also be used as the hone stones are spring loaded to conform to the full cylinder wall. The ridge is a smaller diameter than the cylinder wall and so contact will initially be on the ridge and the bottom edge of the stone so cutting is done on the ridge and bottom edge on the cylinder wall.
Millions of cylinders have been ridge reamed without any damage. Improper use of either method can cause damage to the cylinder wall. Since the piston is already damaged, we are not concerned with preventing damage to the piston.
Bob Engle
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Bumper is not correct. Horns and parking lights are missing , the Pines winterfront is missing. running boards are not correct. I would suspect that this car was in front end collision and was cobbled together with miscellaneous parts. 57S fenders and who know what headlights. I would check the frame for damage.
Bob Engle
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For both AACA and BCA judging, tires must be of the factory original size and type and appearance. If original type tires are not available, the next closest size and type must be approved by the organizations with documentation available to the judges. AACA deduction is max 3 points for each non authentic tire including spares. BCA deduction is one point per tire. If you want to show the car with the expectation of winning awards, you will need the correct tires. Some car owners have two sets of tires, one for driving and one for show points judging.
I personally have found that some cars drive significantly better with radials, but others do fine with bias ply tires. Manual steering seems to like radials better than power steering cars.
I think it's a personal choice. You pay your money and take your chances.
Bob Engle
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To me, It looks to be sewn not stapled.
Paper does look very white for a 111 year old book.
Bob Engle
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Most likely Bob's and Cars buy from the The SC location. Bob's and Cars are parts sellers and contract out for most of their parts.
Nothing wrong with dealing with them, but I prefer the manufacturer.
Just my Bias
Bob Engle
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In some years, the switch lever was marked with an "ON" indicator. The reproduction parts don't have the lettering.
Bob Engle
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Just curious? What's with all the metal plates bolted to the floor??
Bob Engle
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These 2 piece caps are made by roll forming the finished outer skin onto base cap. With 100 psi on a 6" cap there is over 2800 pounds of force which is relieved as soon as they separate. if the original edges are not tight, you may need a nozzle that will flow plenty of air and you may need to increase the size of the drilled hole.
I drill the hole using a 1/8" 4 fluted end mill and I do it in my vertical mill. This way I can control the cutting so it doesn't go through the outer skin.
Once the pieces are separated, you can roll the
edge of the skin outward if it looks like it will be a tough assembly. If you want you can weld the drilled hole shut in the base piece. After assembly, if the outer edge is not tight to the base, you can use a plastic hammer or hard rubber hammer and form the edge tighter.
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35 PSI on all style rims.
Bob Engle
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Fluids in and a retorque of all fasteners. I hope to test fire it tomorrow and see where I screwed up and what I forgot. Test drive and off for front end alignment.
Maybe I can back to work on my 32 a post some progress on the prewar forum.
Bob Engle
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There should be a screen inside the dome at the top of the breather tube. Then if you remove the breather tube by removing the acorn nut you should be able to look back in the engine and see a louvered plate.
If you need to remove this louvered plate, start by removing the lifter covers. In the block between the lifter covers, there is a nut that needs to be removed (7/16" wrench if I recall) and then the louvered plate can be removed. On a side note, once the louvered plate is removed, the shaft that holds the breather tube on can then be screwed out of the block on the breather side.
Bob Engle
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I am not familiar with the construction of 36 hubcaps. My 1932 hubcaps are stamped steel backing with a chrome plate brass skin on the surface. The skin is roll formed to the steel. I removed teh skins on my hubcaps and sent them to Paul's chrome plating for ding removal and replating.
To remove the skin, I very carefully drill a 1/8" diameter hole through the center of the steel, making sure i didn't drill through the brass skin. Next I placed the hubcap on a folded blanket with the chrome side against the blanket. I then took my air hose at 100 PSI pressure with a rubber tipped blow nozzle and placed the rubber tip on the 1/8" hole. a shot of air and the skin pops right off the steel backing.
After restoring the steel skin and tin plating them, and the skins returned from Paul's, it was a simple matter to pop the skin back onto steel part for a completed hub cap. I have several hub caps with skins removed if you need photos to see the separated parts.
I have seen several set of hubcaps with the silver solder work done before plating, and it's fine if no repairs are need to the skin or steel backing. Plating costs are much higher on the silver solder method.
Bob Engle
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I have taken to doing gaskets like Nailhead Buick recommends. RTV and black weatherstrip adhesive. the website goes through his procedure and logic for this method.
Bob Engle
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Go to the Centerville Auto Repair web site. This guy knows nailheads. He has great teck info on his site and I have found him very helpful when I talked with him on the phone. He has some definite "does and don'ts" concerning the unique characteristics of the nailheads.
Bob Engle
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The 32 Buicks do not have the threaded holes that go into the plug bore. They have a sheet metal sleeve pressed into the plug bore.
Bob Engle
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Separate the torque tube and tie it up so it doesn't drop when you pull the motor. Keep track of the shims at the frame and motor mount for correct installation later. The motors pull fairly easy except for the weight. I like to remove the manifolds, starter and head just to reduce the weight. However I install assembled.
Bob Engle
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The tubes could still leak air into the engine without going through the carb.
I would keep checking the plugs to see if they continue to get oil soaked. I suspect the rings are not well seated from sitting so long. I would keep driving it.
Make sure you have oil in the shocks.
Bob Engle
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Any time compression is not the same on all cylinders the engine will not perform at optimum. However, I don't think your numbers indicate a problem that would cause your running problem. I would check the screen in the breather, and then remove the heat riser above the carb and check for problems on the internal tubes. grease the bottom flange and set it on a smooth surface and fill the tubes with water and see if it leaks into the exhaust side of the riser. If you find a problem, get back to us to talk you through repairs. These old castings can easily be cracked. I would advise that you seal the exhaust side with a freeze plug. Modern gasoline does not need heat to help vaporization. If the tubes are good, you then need to focus on the carb and ignition for your poor running condition. Once you get it running well, get it out and put some cruising miles on it and see if that helps the blue smoke condition. If you have one cylinder problem, it will show on the spark plug. If the plugs have a nice toast color you are in good shape. these cars all do better with regular miles put on them.
Bob Engle
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There are no valve stem seals on 32 Buicks. there is a possibility that the oil line to the cylinder head has been changed to a larger size from the correct 1/8" tubing. This would flow a lot more oil to the cylinder top and allow leakage along the valve stems.
Bob Engle
These 2 piece caps are made by roll forming the finished outer skin onto base cap. With 100 psi on a 6" cap there is over 2800 pounds of force which is relieved as soon as they separate. if the original edges are not tight, you may need a nozzle that will flow plenty of air and you may need to increase the size of the drilled hole.
edge of the skin outward if it looks like it will be a tough assembly. If you want you can weld the drilled hole shut in the base piece. After assembly, if the outer edge is not tight to the base, you can use a plastic hammer or hard rubber hammer and form the edge tighter.
Buick Matching numbers help
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
There is a range of frame serial numbers that are identified to a specific year. There is also a range of engine serial numbers that is identified to a specific year. There is no practical way to say " this frame number should have this engine number".. A low frame number in the range of numbers in the production run should have a low engine number in the range on engine numbers. Blocks of frame numbers were allocated to different assembly plants so this clouds the issue even further. Serial numbers for 1935 start at 2777650 and end at 2830898. 40 series engines start at 42937408 and end at 42995237.
Bob Engle