Bob Engle
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Posts posted by Bob Engle
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I forgot to mention, Don't buy the manuals on DVD. They are just digital pages with no search engine and are terribly cumbersome to get to what you want. For quick reference, the printed pages are much easier to use. I bought loose leaf copied pages and I added tab sheets to separate the various components.
Bob Engle
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There are many interchangeable parts between 31 and 32 50 series cars. The best way to assure interchangeability is to purchase the 1932 parts manual covers all Buicks from 1926 through 1932. These manuals are reproduced, so you don't need to search for original manuals. There were a number of mid 1931 changes to the drivetrain. Most of the late changes are common with 1932. before engine #2682902 is early, after is late 31 &32.
Front wheel bearing parts have different part numbers than 1932.
Rear wheel Axle bearings are common on 31/32 50 series.
clutch driven plate and clutch pressure plate assemblies are common.
Much of the information on the wheel assemblies is confusing as there were three types of wheels and hubs available. Artillery, demountable wood spke and wire.Bob Engle
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The 1960 Chassis service manual has a lot of info on adjusting these window tracks. The Vent window can also be adjusted which also adjusts the location of the front window track.
Bob
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If you remove the door panel, The track that guides the window has a set screw near the bottom of the track. You loosen the lock nut and turn the set screw to push the bottom of the track outward and then the window at the top will move it toward alignment with the rear window. It's a go slow, adjust a little run the window up and down, open and close the door. You don't want to cause a bind or have the widow hitting at the top or binding aganist the rear window. There is a similar adjustment for the rear window to get it aligned with the top.
Big question is why it wasn't properly adjusted before going to auction??
Bob Engle
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I have some keepers for 32 50 series that should be correct for you. Send me a pm with address and I'll drop a pair in the mail.
Bob Engle
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White Post Restoration in White Post VA can reface a clutch disk. Not cheap, but guaranteed.
Bob Enle
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I do know that the spider gear Thrust bushings are brass on my 32 Buick differential. I use the GL4 in there also. Why risk it, and it's easier to have just one lubricant when practical.
Bob Engle
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I checked two armatures on the growler One is shorted out but the other checks good. Unfortunately the generator was run with smaller than stock brushes and the armature has about 1/16' groove that would have to be turned down.
If you are interested in a used armature, pm me.
I did have a starter armature rewound many years ago. Cost was $75 then. You may want to check fir a reputable rewinder.
Bob Engle
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Want to buy 1960 Buick 6X15 wheels used on Invicta and Electra models.. 1960 was the first year for the 4 slots between the rim and center hub. Wheels were painted black from factory. 5 1/2X15 wheels were painted grey. Wheels will have hole between the lug holes for the brake drum guide pin. I would buy 5 wheels, but will take what you have
Bob Engle
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All 32 series use the same generator. Distributor is different, but all internal generator parts are common for 1932.
I may have a used armature. I'll have to check my parts bin to see if I do have one and what it's condition would be.
Bob Engle
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I was dealing with a 32 radiator with the 1 1/2 psi applied. If I had to reproduce an old hex core, I would probably request the openings be a bit larger than the original to allow more flow. If the openings were .010" larger, no judge could ever notice the difference. The exterior hex's could be the same size as the original.
Bob Engle
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My only concern with stop leak is that the radiator passageways in these honeycomb units are very small and the system is open to the atmosphere. Stop leaks seal by weeping out and then setting up in the presence of air. If this stuff sets up in you radiator core, you won't be able to get it removed and you will surely have overheating problems.
Bob Engle
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I am fortunate to have a good radiator shop nearby. They put the radiators in a water tank and apply low pressure 1 to 3 psi, The leaks show up quickly and they then solder the leaks. These old radiators are a challenge to find a reliable person to work on them. Too many places want to recore the radiators at high prices. The good news on these old systems is that they work at atmospheric pressure so they usually won't catastrophically fail. If you are getting adequate cooling ( which can be a bigger problem) I would seek out a shop that will do the work with you watching to make sure they don't use too much pressure and you can see if the leaks are excessive.
Stating that it is weeping at a few spots, leads me to believe a few solder patches will get you on te road for many years.
Bob Engle
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How do you know what to mix it to? Can you depend on old original parts to still be the original correct color? Why would Bill Hirsch make paint that is not correct?
Bob Engle
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It may be that different colors were used for different models that needed different spring rates?? Easy for assembly line worker to grab the right parts??
Bob Engle
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The early 1931 50 series cars had the same transmission as the 1930 30 series cars. It was a non synchro mesh transmission. Mid year 1931 they went to the same transmission as used in 1932. there was no seal on the torqueball on the 50 series car. The leather cover was to keep dirt out of the ball and keep drips to a minimum. The transmission should use 160 weight oil to keep leaking to a minimum. The fit of the ball to the transmission can be adjusted by adding or removing gasket shims. You should expect a small amount of leakage, but not enough to affect the level in the transmission.
If you wanted to add a seal, you would need to machine a groove in the back cover . With the spherical shape of this ball and cover, care would be needed to get a proper groove in the cover.
Many of these cars have damaged torque balls due to the leather cover deteriorating and allowing dirt and water to get in the ball, pitting and corroding the surface. Of the 5 drive trains I have, only 2 had suitable parts for use.
I would first change the oil in the transmission to 160 weight oil and see if that helps. Many people just go get standard 90 weight and increase the severity of leaks.
Do not use modern GL5 oil!!. it will damage the bronze synchronizers in time. GL4 is the correct oil to use.
Bob Engle
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I bought oversized pistons and rings from Egge years ago. I don't know their pricing today.
Bob Engle
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The early 50 series do not have a seal. I don't know what year they added a seal, but 1932 did not have a seal, just the leather cover to catch the drips.
Bob Engle
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The oil flow to the rockers is about normal for these early straight 8s. These engines were designed to limit oil flow to the top end. They were more concerned with good oil to the lower end bearings. 30 weight oil is on the light side for these engines. 30 is okay for winter weather, but 40 or 50 weight is preferred in the summer. This is the recommendation for high speed driving in the early 30's so the high speed driving is closer to our normal driving today.
I would replace the oil filter just to be sure it isn't plugged up. They don't have a bypass in the canister type filters. That is an after market filter assembly. Buick was very specific in filtering only the oil going to the rocker arms and they used an 1/8 inch tubing from the filter to the cylinder head to limit the oil flow. Many times when the filter assembly is converted because the original filters are no longer available, the line size is changed to a larger size. I would not be overly concerned with the oil flow. Remember, 10 years earlier, the valve train was open and the rockers had to be manually oiled once in a while.
On the noise you hear, you could have a spring broken at the lower end of the push rod. This spring was to keep the roller lifter in contact with the cam.
Bob Engle
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The diecast material has a higher electro conductivity than the chrome. If the piece is placed in the acid solution and current passed through it, the diecast material will breakdown in the the solution. Brass, Iron and other material with low electro conductivity will not be affected. Bumpers and steel parts can be deplated, but NOT diecast!
Bob Engle
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These oil temp regulators would corrode the top stamped metal housing. I wouldn't be surprised if yours has rusted through from the inside. I have 3 covers from junk engines and 2 have brazing on the inside to repair leaks and the other had an epoxy compound on the inside. I also have one other engine that completely removed the unit and replaced it with flanged pipe for the water pump outlet hose connection.
The water flow through the unit causes turbulence and this eats away the metal. If the oil lines are bypassed, I would suggest removing the inner radiator core and plugging the holes. This will allow better water flow through the unit. Covers in good condition are rare.
Bob Engle
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I'm not familiar with the pieces you are doing or the final quality you expect. To remove the old chrome from die cast, it must be ground off by a craftsman. Die cast is very soft material and chrome is very hard. The more fine detail on a part, the more difficult the task. You can probably expect some loss of detail. Any mistakes can't be corrected as there is no good way to add material back onto the piece. They can fill the outgass pin holes satisfactorily, but they can't recreate sharp lines and corners.
Knowing this, if you want good results you will have to go to the high cost platers. Don't buy on price or you will be unhappy with the results. If the parts are to be Concourse level, I would have the plater do another part that you get at a swap meet that is not needed. This way you will see the results and can determine your level of satisfaction. Under any circumstances, there is no guaranty on the finished pieces as each is done by hand and any slip will be loss of detail.
I have used Paul's chrome plating for better than average results. That said, be sure to have a lengthy discussion with the plater so they know your expectations. Many of the high end restoration shops here in Virginia get all their work done at Librandi's in Middletown, PA. I wasn't willing to pay for their quality level.
Bob Engle
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There are a lot of choices for the engineer besides gray cast and cast steel. There is ductile iron, forged steel, mehanite cast iron and all sorts of alloy ratios. If you are really curious, you would need to test the parts for hardness. The simplest test for hardness is to take a small file and use light pressure and see how the file cuts and compare the feel to known hardness of other parts.
I suspect that at that time period, They only wanted parts that would last for a few years. They surely didn't think their cars would survive for 100 years.
Bob Engle
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Working on my 32 58 Victoria coupe. The car had a mix of bolts mounting the front seats to the floor cross brace. Some were 5/16 chrome hex head bolts, others were 1/4 chriome slotted round head screws.
Can anyone help with what is correct? Are passenger and and driver seat bolts all the same?. Are there any washers between the bolt heads and brackets?
Thanks
Bob Engle
more 1933 help needed
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
since you didn't get any 33 50 responses, I've attached 2 photos from my 32 58. There is a good chance they are the same. look for the clips to hold the harness against the body.
Bob Engle