RobV

Nearchocolatetown, the tank is a Kingston. I had to pull it out of the crate and clean it a bit, but I got a good pic of the stampings in the top. By the way, anyone know where I can get the horn button for the steering wheel? Top of the vac tank Side shot of the tank with brackets

Keiser31 and Nearchocolatetown, here are some of the pics you asked for earlier in the thread. Keiser31, the rear dash drainage Pic of the rear dash area Nearchocolatetown, the spare mount at the cowl. I didn't see any rubber on either side. Pic of the cowl

Both sides have the spring, and they are still in good shape. I will try to pull one in the next couple of days and get measurements and pics of the spring shape and wire diameter. So the stock locks would not be keyed alike? I'm making the molds for the lock part that holds the tumblers and accepts the key, the part in the middle. It seems to be the weakest section of the whole assembly.

I don't know about others kick panels, but mine has the same cloth as was used on the panels that fill around the rear window. I'd be willing to bet that it isn't the correct material though.

I just noticed that my motors look like the top one, but are upside down. Mine must not be stock, since the 'bowl' part of the motor are on the bottom and yet the control is still on the left side. It looks like there are original mounting holes in the frame on the driver side that are wider then what is in there now too. Darn it, its beginning to look like someone messed up the frame by drilling holes in it for these motors.

Ok, I took pics of everything I could find. Hopefully, the body tag is the one mounted to the firewall, since there was no tag on the passenger floorboard. I think the frame numbers are buried under paint. Engine: H 117706 Manifold: 210 403 6 Firewall tag: 172 3869 Head: rearmost number - 23528 middle number - 210100 Dual wiper exterior 1 Dual wiper exterior 2 Dual wiper interior pic Pic of passenger wiper from the side Pic of the engine numbers Pic of the body tag mounted to firewall? Pic of where frame numbers should be, I think Pic of the head numbers Pic of the manifold numbers Let me know if they aren't clear or don't work!

1930, once again thank you for the help and the pics. I went back to the meyer site and didn't see the levers any more. Maybe they only had a couple OE pieces? My wheel loks like the one in your pic. Pic of my steering wheel Sorry its a tad fuzzy.

1930, those look identical to mine, pinned and all. the pinned joint has some wobble to them. I would trade, but only have two units and need them for the dual mounts on my car. I'm going to cast some new lock cylinders from the remaining good origial. If all goes well, then I should be able to drop the original tumblers from the disintegrated lock into the new cylinder. If it works, would you like one to key to your original? The more I look at the car, I have to agree that it's factory equipment. The recieving hole on the backside of the spare is cast into the spare mount support. pic of mounts

1930, thanks for the pics! I have both of those levers on mine, but where yours appears to have a cap or button in the center, mine is hollow. There is a piece of wire running down the center of the column that terminates in that 'cap' area. What is it, and what is it for? Which lever operates the light switch at the bottom of the column? I like the repro levers at meyers dodge, they look spot on in the pics on their page.

Yeah, there are dual wipers, with two wiper motors mounted to the inside of the frame. I never thought that it might not be a stock setup, but there wasn't anything obvious that looks 'aftermarket' or home installed either. I'll try to get a pick of the interior and exterior frame with the motors in it. I'll work on getting all the numbers too. I got the car with a spare block which I think might be the original. I will probably never know since my dad got rid of the spare block on accident thinking it was one of his.

nearchocolatetown, I may join the Dodge Club, but I'd go broke if I had to join a club for every make of car my dad and I have collected. I personally have the '29 Da, '37 Dodge truck, '37 Plymouth truck. Dad is another story. '27 Ford two door sedan, '34 Plymouth PE coupe, '35 Plymouth coupe, '38 Plymouth truck, '48 Plymouth deluxe sedan, '39 Willys sedan, some kinda of brass 'T' in pieces, and a '36 Packard 120. Can you believe he's cut back on projects? Out of all those, the '29 is a registered driver, the '48 Plymouth and the '39 Willys are drivable but need paint and interior, and I just got the '36 Packard to drive under it's own power last Monday. The Packard hasn't run in 12 or so years according to the previous owners.

Lol, I'll look under mine but the only original part of the fuel lines would be from the tank to the fuel pump. Everything forward of that was replaced by the owner before me. I finally found the clum light switch buried in another pile of rust. The lights all run off of toggles mounted on a piece of aluminum under the dash. From what I understand I am missing a lever on the steering wheel that controlled that switch. I have two levers with a hole in the middle of the inner lever. I'm trying to find good pics of a '29 steering wheel and the brackets that hold the switch at the bottom. The cowl lamp reflectors turned black from oxidation, so I think they were originally silvered. I'm going to drag out my plating machine and re silver plate them this week I'm going to try to get to the shop and get pics of the side mounts at the cowl too.

1930, my '29 deluxe coupe has two of the first picture without the extra arm mounted in it. Hope that helps.

I weekend drive mine for about 20-30 miles every other week. It has some modifications to make it more road worthy like an electric fuel pump though. What is this about a meet in Keiser, OR?

I work for H-D, and was a mechanic for many years. DOT5 will work well in older brake systems, we convert old DOT3 systems all the time. I converted my '29 DA to DOT5 with no problems. One thing that is very very important when converting old systems is to completely flush the braking system with a solvent to remove the DOT3. I use regular old rubbing alcohol to do the rubber lines, and lacquer thinner for the metal parts. Also, be sure to replace ALL of the old seals and rubbers when you do. If there is any seal that is reused, it will have consequences. DOT3 and DOT5 cannot be mixed, they form a very nasty gel when you do. BTW, I still use the original brake lines when I convert, they don't seem to have a problem as long as they are flushed and cleaned well.

These were large chunks of rust a couple days ago. I used glass bead to clean off the worst of it, and was surprised at how they were made. The 'head'(where the locking portion is located) is pinned to a long rod, allowing the rod to move about 10 degrees in all directions so that the rod can align with the hole on the other side of the wheel. The lock itself just moves a wedge shaped pin that locks into a groove in the outer hole. One lock barrel is ok, but the other fell out in pieces. I'm trying to find replacement lock barrels. I hope I won't have to make them.

Yup, one of the things I had to replace to get it running was the fuel pump. I knew that wasn't an original part, but couldn't figure out how to get the fuel to draw properly without it. Now I'm beginning to get the idea of how it was done. The fuel pump is located under the interior floorboard on the passenger side. There is also a pressure regulator inline between the pump and the carb. I'm going to have to look through the owners manual and see if they have a diagram for the original fuel system.

I have a set of side mount spare locks that are for my '29 DA, but a search on the web doesn't turn up any information on these. They are basically long rods that lock with a key into holders on both sides of the spare wheel. Has anyone seen these before? Where they aftermarket pieces? Any info at all would help greatly. Thanks, RobV

keiser31, thanks for the description. That piece is in one of the crates of parts, not on the car. I'll take a look when I get home and see what make it is.

Dang it, I had a huge reply for everyone and it disappeared instead of posting! Keiser31, Thanks for the pic, first I've ever seen of the body style other than my own. DB must have made the biggest catch basins ever, this thing has to be 3-4 gallons. I'll try to get a decent pic. 1930, thanks for confirming the glf bag door, glad to know I got something right! lol. I have got a ways to go to get back to original, but it seems I've got the parts. Found the original lighting switch (clum) and the spare tire mount locks in a crate yesterday. But it runs and I can drive it, so I'm happy. nearchocolatetown, I don't think the spare mounts to the cowl, but is all attatched to the fender. Will get pics of it all for you. I have to count the spokes, and I have no clue where the vacuum tank is. Let me know where to look, lol. Thanks for the help everyone. I'll try to get pics and post by tonight.

Hi, new member with a few questions. This car has been in the family for over 30 years, and I just got it running again after over 20 years on blocks. The previous owner did a 'restoration' and I am trying to get it back as close to original as possible. First off, this was listed as a 'club coupe', but I have never been able to turn up any information on this model. It has a small door on the passenger side that opens to the footwell of the rumble, which is supposedly for your golf clubs. Also, it has a tray between the rear of the seat and the back window that opens into a metal 'tub' about a foot deep with a drain hose going out the bottom of the floor between the frame rails. I was told this was for keeping 'beverages' during prohibition. I'm curious how much of this history is B.S. and what may be truthful. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks, Rob