jdome
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Posts posted by jdome
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So what do we do? Just ask? I'm in need of a brass Haans fuel gauge complete or just the dial to repair the body I have. I also need an ign/light switch for 15 Cadillac.
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On 5/17/2024 at 8:16 PM, JFranklin said:
jdome, It was most likely saved from the crusher years ago by becoming a clown car.
And most likely not. I can speculate too.
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Clown car, hot rod, rat rod. What's the difference, They are all destroyed as far as keeping or making them original.
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8 minutes ago, alsancle said:
34 is the year to have. These club sedans are very attractive.
Except for bumpers and the ribs at the bottom of the grill, 35 is same as 34. 34 is first year for coil spring front end. Much better riding and handling.
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Modern electronics might like 6v but they don't like reverse polarity (+ ground socket) . Fortunately for you, your devices have reverse polarity protection that includes the fuse, otherwise you'd end up with toast. USB charger output is a regulated 5.4v. Most modern devices like cell phones are 5.4v phones except the newest phones that are 3.5. Most USB 12v cigarette plug power cord/chargers accept a range of input voltage and maintain the regulated 5.4 output. However, they usually require at least 1 volt more than the desired output. I don't know if they work on 6v car systems. If you want to test, use a pair of alligator test leads and connect your cig plug to the proper polarity of your 6v batter. Center pin of plug connected to + battery terminal. Outer shell contact (ground) connects to - terminal. The charger will either output 5.4 v or less., possibly 0.
If it works and charges properly, you can make a cheap and easy cig lighter polarity converter by purchasing a male and female in-line plug and socket and cross wire them: center pin of male plug wired to the female shell (ground) contact.
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That's not Ed. Horse is facing wrong direction.
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I have a 35 v12. Same gray broad cloth interior. Mine originally had black painted wood window trim but when I stripped the old paint off to restore them, they are made of black walnut. Evan though I'm a purest, I didn't have the heart to repaint them. I just repaired the splits, sanded and applied urethane spar varnish. No stain . They are a beautiful rich brown with black grain. The piece at the top of dash is burl walnut. How could anyone paint over that ? I'll bet yours are walnut too.
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Photo of my original rear seat. The Hirsch material is a good match. Rear seat is in good condition and must not have had much use. Front seat cloth is torn and worn out.
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This is the Hirsch brown and tan striped Bedford Cord I'm looking for. it has a definite weave pattern and texture.
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5 hours ago, charlespetty said:
Hirsch has been winding down their upholstery & carpet business for some time. I bought their last roll of one color of striped wool upholstery for my 1937 Lincoln K last year knowing it wasn't going to be available again. They will be missed.
Did you happen to buy Hirsch's # TTB-2 two-tone tan and brown wool Bedford Cord. I only needed 3 yards for front & rear seat centers. I called Hirsch a few months ago but all he had left was 1 yard. I bought it thinking all I need to do now is find enough left over scrapes I could cut three more, 2-ft pieces out of. I contacted some upholstery shops I know would use Hirsh's materials but they all treated me like a nuisance and acted like it wasn't worth their bother to search their stash and sell me a couple pieces of scrap. I gave up on that idea. I do have a sample of a bedford cord material from SMS that has the correct 1/8th inch (approx) alternating stripes but the brown is too light and the tan is on the olive side, neither color looks good with the original shade of brown leather. SMS can provide me with an olive tan leather to go with it. This olive combination was used in early 50s Packards and possibably other cars. The tan & brown stripe Cord I'm looking for was used on Ford (Deluxe), Lincoln, and Mercury of the late 30s and 40s and similar makes.
I've probably provided more information than anyone wanted to read but if Charlespetty or anyone else has some leftover/extra Hersch # TTB-2 wool stripped brown & tan Bedford Cord I would like to buy it, in any amount.
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FYI - I suspect that since the previous owner installed accessory lamps on the rear bumper for turn signals, common practice, it was not necessary to modify the brake light and brake switch wiring. You can not simply rewire the turn signal wires to the brake lights without modifying the brake light circuit first. Disconnect the cross connection between bulbs and rewire the brake switch line to turn switch.
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On 5/9/2024 at 10:37 AM, 57j2olds said:
When I say they don't work....they all flash at the same time when I am signaling.
And when I pull on my headlights they all stop blinking.
POSSIBLE FAULTS FROM MIS-WIRED MODIFICATION when sharing brake bulb filaments with turn signals.
All lights flashing:
1) Cross connection from one side to the other. See my first drawing I posted earlier. The blue wiring needs to be modified/replaced as shown in my second drawing. Somewhere in the original wiring harness, usually at or near the light housings, there is a wire that connects the R brake socket with the L socket that needs to be disconnected at both ends. It is possible to reuse the existing wires for part of the new circuitry for convenience, as long as you end up with power through the brake switch wired directly to the proper turn sw connection, AND individual L & R turn sw wires going direct to the individual filaments at each corner. No other wires should be connected to any of the filament circuitry anywhere.
2) L & R bulb connections at switch for either front or rear are reversed. Check for other possible wrong switch connections.
3) Incorrect use of front parking light bulbs for turn signals. The typical 7-wire turn switch does not provide for shared use of parking and turn functions, with single filament bulbs. For front signals, either modify park sockets for 2 filament bulbs or add a socket within the park housing or add a second housing. You could completely disconnect the park light wiring and use the existing single filaments park lights for turn only (not recommended).
D) any combination or all of the above.
Lights stop blinking when headlights/running lights or parking lights are turned on:
Headlights, Running lights, park lights (Filaments) should not have any connection to the turn signal circuitry except the properly modified brake lights. Somewhere, you are providing power from your headlights, parking lights or rear tail lights.
1) Mistakenly connected turn signal wire to one or both tail lamp filaments.
2) Improper use of single filament parking bulbs (see above) with power wire between park switch and lights still connected.
3) It is possible that somewhere you made a splice or modified connection and accidently shorted a turn wire to a running light wire. With old frayed and bare wiring, sometimes moving wirers around can make cross contact. A stray wire hair or blob of solder across the dual filaments tail/brake sockets, either outside connections or inner socket contacts can also create cross feed.
It might be best to un-do the changes you made and start over using my diagrams and the suggestions that others have offered.
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"Hot" dipped. How hot? What does it do to soldered seams?
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On my way. See you in the AM.
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I'm headed out for a swap meet this weekend and won't be able to help until next week. I don't know what sort wiring cluster you have now so I drew up the following typical diagram of what the original wiring probably was before modification. To
o make it work properly you need to remove the blue wiring between the brake switch to brake lights and make the modifications indicated on my second diagram.
The orange wiring remains intact. You need to add front turn signal sockets. You can either add 2 new sockets or modify existing park sockets for dual filament. Add new wires as indicated to turn signal switch. I don't have time to find a suitable signal switch diagram for connecting to your switch. There are 2 more switch wires to hook up with the blinker. Maybe someone else can post that info. Hope this helps for now.
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Below is a simple circuit of a negative ground battery, switch & bulb.
Notice that when you connect a tester, test light or DC test meter, at the proper polarity points as shown, you will read 12V. Notice that with switch open, you will read ground (-) on both sides of the bulb because it is now a wire connection from ground to the open side of the switch. Removal of the bulb will open the grond at the switch. Below are drawings of the 4 possible switch positions leading to the under hood lamp in its original configuration, before the kill switch modification.
Depending on whether the Park SW and/or the Mercury SW is open or closed, the associated bulb will either light or will make a ground path as shown. The kill switch modification adds some quirks to the system. Addition of the kill SW between + battery terminal and park/hood light circuit and other accessories will test as above as long as the kill SW is turned on. Below is a diagram of how thecircuits will test with the kill SW open.
With the kill SW open there is no power to the accessory harness so it does not matter whether the Park & Merc switches are on or off. There is a bulb in each section that grounds both sides of the switches. Because there are other devices (dome lights, clock, running lights) connected to ground on one side and wired to the harness or switched on and connected to the harness; the entire harness will test as ground at almost any point, with kill SW open. There is nothing wrong with adding kill switch. Just be aware of what is happening when testing. I would suggest that you calculate the total current demand of all bulbs and accessories to make sure the kill switch can handle the total current through the switch at its 12V DC rating. Could present a fire hazard.
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I have a babbit bearing scraper similar to that, similar wood screwdriver handle, sharp edge but not as much curve.
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Mobileparts,
Pleasure meeting you too. You were certainly busy so I expect you did well. Big crowd on Saturday.. Lots of people like myself carrying parts so I suspect it was a good day for venders in general.. Rhinebeck is on my list for next year.
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On 5/5/2024 at 6:18 AM, Gtjoey said:
I think our BELOVED Hershey can learn from this….
Start consolidating the fields.
This was my first trip to Rhinebeck. Went for the Saturday swap and planed to stay for the Sunday antiques but left early due to pending weather. Decent swap meet but not much older than 1930 part's except model T. Rhinebeck could use more bathroom facility locations. Let's hope that hershey doesn't learn to charge admission. I stood in a long line about half an hour Saturday morning at Rhinbeck's only entrance gate, waiting for the gate to open. Once the line started to move, another half hour to get to one of only 2 cashiers selling tickets. Fortunately, I bought a few small items I carried with me all day. I can imagine the hassle to get permission to carry parts out to the parking lot and check back in. There were only a few empty spots, mostly inside which were probably sold at a premium so the cheap seats sold out first. There were a few other spots that could have been empty as far as I'm concerned, those would be the sock and bling venders and the ones selling potted plants.
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I have made early gas tanks using 20ga galvanized plated sheet steel. This is what the HVAC industry uses but 20 is a thicker gage than they typically use. It is mostly zinc and soldered easily. I like to use 1/8 in electrical rosin core solder to start the tinning process followed by solid core. Rosin clean up isn't as critical as acid flux. Make sure that cut edges that expose steel are outside the tank or solder those edges if inside. I've also had to make new water tanks for the radiator system . Those were originally galvanized but I made those out of copper. Tank sealants won't withstand boiling coolant.
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I have been there before. Small show but a good one if you are into brass. It's about 5 or 6 hr drive for me. I'm trying to decide if I should go for Friday and come home Friday evening. My newest grandson is having his first birthday party Saturday and I can't miss that.
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On 5/4/2024 at 9:19 AM, human-potato_hybrid said:
If you buy the correct ones they will dissipate through the air. I know that it would make the lighting circuit only about 75% efficient but how much are you using headlights on a 19 teens car anyway?
No use, HPH. I usually leave these discussions up to the experts who haven't actually done anything like this but repeat misinformation and old wives tails. Mr. Ohms says that if you add resistance in series with a bulb, that it will actually reduce the current demand on the battery. AMPS = Volts/Ohms or 18amps = 18 volts/1 ohm vs 9 amps = 18 volts/2 ohms. In reality, though, the combined resistance of the 12v bulb plus dropping resister will be about the same as the 18v bulb they replace. it will have little effect on the battery load. In the case of the White, you need a series resister half the resistance of the 12V bulb you want to use., to create the necessary 6v drop.
Resisters DO NOT make heat. Current passes through resistance and that produces power in watts: P(watts) = Amps X Volts. This production of power (watts) occurs in all devices including, motors, LEDs, filament bulbs, and resistors. All of these may have the same wattage rating yet differ in heat byproduct. Power (watts) is NOT DIRECTLY RELATED TO HEAT. A bulb has a filament that glows and the filament creates heat. A resister does not have a filament, it does not glow. The resister's sole purpose in life is to reduce voltage for other devices and absorb and dissipate POWER. Resisters, like any other device, are not 100% efficient. It can get warm to the touch but no hot. Must be properly sized for circuit specifications. A 20 watt resister does not make 20 watts of power or heat, but it will dissipate 8 watts more effectively than a 10 watt resister. For those of you who may have been frightened by the enlarged photograph posted earlier, of the menacing, high power resister, I have included the photo below of some common resisters. I thought I should show them in prospective.
The 10 watt resister above, at about $1 ea. should be satisfactory for a single bulb, Proper calculation will determine actual value. You would simply connect the resister between the socket and power line, inside each bucket that needs to be converted to 12v. No other modification or changes in battery connections or charging. There is no harm maintaining a mix 18v bulbs and 12v bulbs + resister on the original battery/electrical system. The high power 50 wat resister is used by some people to connect more than one device to one resister. I don't recommend doing that but then I don't convert my cars from 6 to 12. I'm content and capable of maintaining my cars on 6v. In the case of the White, in this application, the only way to go is with the resisters in series with 12 volt bulbs that you want to replace.
What are you guys planning to do with all the heat made by the third battery in the 12v tap off scenario?
You picked the worst of the options. These sort of battery taps can even be dangerous. Nothing wrong with using 3 identical 6v batteries in series but the tap will discharge the first 2 batteries more than the third. This will cause the first 2 batteries to under charge, and the third to overcharge. Undercharging has its own issues but overcharging can can produce dangerous heat that will deform the case, And the battery is not designed to dissipate excessive heat. What the third battery will dissipate is battery acid in the form of sulfation, hydration, hydrogen and oxygen gasses, Non of which you want to accumulate on top of the battery or its posts or the batteries next to it. You certainly don't want any of this gas-off to collect under the hood or in an enclosed battery box. Overcharging is the major cause of battery explosions, and it even occurs with Optima batteries, particularly the yellow top version. But of course, all this depends on how much you use the lights. I hope the viewers at home are not getting the idea that they can do a half-arce 6/12 tap-off on a vehicle they drive more often or long drives.
It appears to me that the White electrical system in question is similar to model T. The batteries are normally only used for the starting motor. The lighting is power by a separate set of gen windings that produce 10-20 amps necessary for the lights. It appears that a second set of windings are used for the starter motor that revert to recharging the batteries when the engine is running. Since there doesn't appear to be any charging regulation, it is probably a low trickle charge rate of maybe 2 amps which is enough to replenish the battery between starts. If that is the case, with the 12v tap, when the lights are on the first 2 batteries will drain 10 amps faster than they charge. That cant be good on long nighttime drives.
I'm trying to be helpful. Please don't anyone take this as a personal offense.
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Yea you're screwed . Sorry if I came off as nit picking but I don't recall an 18v only system. Several dual voltage because the industry settled on 6v lights by 14, or so I thought.
Ed, by 2-wire system I assume it uses + and - wires instead of chassis ground. If so it should be easy to rewire for 2 6v bulbs in series. Using modern electronics on an antique car is against my religion. Below is how I would solve the problem.
I would pick a pair of common, available 6v headlight bulbs and wire them in series with a dropping resister. You would have to measure the resistance of one of the bulbs and find a 20watt sandblock resister with the same olms. If the sockets are grounded you only need to replace the left socket with a 2-lead, insulated socket. The resister can easily be hidden inside one of the headlight buckets. Quick, simple and no complicated wiring and modern electronics to hide.
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20 hours ago, ABear said:
Electrical system voltage, doesn't matter where you measure it, can be at battery, magneto, generator or at the bulb.
That is true except when it isn't. I would think Ed knows his stuff when he said that the White uses 18 V bulbs, but then he seemed to be confused about a 6 V battery tap, which is possible. There may also be series resistance voltage drop already designed into the system for the lights. Then again, the OP's car may have also been modified sometime in its life for lower voltage bulbs. That's why I say, if there is any doubt about what should or shouldn't be, and there is in my mind; just measure the dam voltage at the socket and see which battery or what voltage you got. I tried to search for a wiring diagram for the 14 White but couldn't find one. I would like to see a diagram if someone has one they can post.
The more I think about it, perhaps the White has a battery system similar to the 1912 Cadillac Delco 24/6 v. system. The first electric starter in a production car. That system has four 6v batteries with a relay box that switches the 4 batteries in series for the 24v starter motor and then switches them in parallel for 6v running mode and 6v lighting. Its been a couple decades since I fooled with a 1912 but if I remember correctly, the Cadillac had a 6v tap off the low battery (the grounded battery) so 6v would always be available for the lights, even when switched in the 24v starting mode. Cadillac/DElco developed a 6V starter/gen the following year. There were other early electric start systems that were dual voltage.
o make it work properly you need to remove the blue wiring between the brake switch to brake lights and make the modifications indicated on my second diagram.
I would pick a pair of common, available 6v headlight bulbs and wire them in series with a dropping resister. You would have to measure the resistance of one of the bulbs and find a 20watt sandblock resister with the same olms. If the sockets are grounded you only need to replace the left socket with a 2-lead, insulated socket. The resister can easily be hidden inside one of the headlight buckets. Quick, simple and no complicated wiring and modern electronics to hide.
Shift mechanism
in What is it?
Posted
I believe that 10 prong socket is known as a Cinch Connector or Cinch-Jones connector of the 50/60s maybe 70s era that was more likely used on industrial control equipment, communication equipment, rather than automotive. Perhaps some specialized truck device for something like a street sweeper.