reattahave

Hi can anyone tell me how many 1990 convertibles were delivered to Canadian dealerships? I heard that there was only 12 1990 convertibles true or not? Thanks :confused:

Buy a new car

I went to the Upick and got a Cadillac tray, worked just fine. My reatta is a 90 the 90 trays were spot welded in so I drilled out the welds and bolted the new one in hopes this helps

Barney Could you please add me on the list to purchase one also. I can be contacted at m.zarzycki@sympatico.ca Thanks, Mark

Thank You so much for the information MauiWowee, now I know he is selling keys for 1991 at least the door key is.

Just wondering if the door key for a 91 is a different blank than the 90 my 90s have a stamp on the side with the letter D the 91 I'm told has the letter H can anyone verify this for me. The reason I'm asking is I bought keys on eBay there listing said for 1991-1992 reatta. I wrote the seller and told him they didn't make a reatta in 1992. Thinking they were the right keys, that he made a mistake in his add I ordered them. When i received them the ignition keys were correct but the door keys were not they are totally different.He asked me what year my reatta was and I told him 1990 he wrote back saying that the keys he sent were correct for a 91. <span style="font-weight: bold">1991 door key has the letter <span style="font-weight: bold">H</span> stamped on the side and 1990 have a D. </span>So any one with a 1991 can you verify this for me, Thanks

<span style="font-weight: bold">Nemo thanks but I was just being sarcastic.</span> You can't pull the keys out until you can turn the ignition off. My problem was that the pins in the ignition switch had collapsed and could not turn the car off, it was stuck in the run position. But after replacing the ignition every thing is like new now. Just thought it was funny about Park when I read it thinking daaa no s - - - , but I can see this happening to some one. No disregard to you, Thanks.

The wreckers should have one. I replaced my battery tray from a cadillac not exactly the same one but it will work just fine . They are spot welded in, so i just drilled the welds out and bolted it in

Replacing the switch is a big job. I posted the repair i just completed under ignition key stuck in on position

For the two minutes it takes to unhook the battery, to be safe why wouldn't you??????

In my case with the ignition switch stuck in the run position I unhooked the battery. even the manual says the negative battery terminal should be disconnected and air bag can still be activated up to ten minutes so better be safe than sorry

Well if anyone has ever replaced there ignition switch they know its a big job. for those that have not this is what I did. Hopefully not forgetting any thing. 1 Unhook the battery 2 take the 4 screws out that hold the IP cluster housing 3 Then you need to pull the cargo box from the console 4 you then remove the two screws that hold the outer console trim plate and wiggle and pull up to remove it. 5 Then there is 3 screws to remove 2 at the front of the inner console trim plate and 1 in the bottom of the ashtray then remove. 6 next 2 screws that hold the front storage compartment in and pull it out 7 You now remove the knee bolster 2 nuts at the lower end by the hood release and 4 across the top 8 Next remove the steering column reinforcement plate 4 screws 9 Then you need to remove the plastic wire protector at the lower end of the column just squeeze and pull out. 10 Now to the air bag 4 torx screws behind the back of the wheel MAKE SURE THAT YOUR BATTERY HAS BEEN DISCONECTED FOR AT LEAST 10 MIN STEP 1 11 Unplug the air bag there is a blue clip you pull out then pull apart connector and the 2 horn connectors. Always hold the air bag facing away from you and set it facing up on a table some were. 12 You then need a steering puller to remove the wheel. 13 Now you remove retaining ring that hold the coil assembly in place MAKE SURE YOU YOU MARK THE POSITION OF THE COIL ASSEMBLY TO BE SURE YOU REPLACE IT WITHOUT LETTING IT ROTATE.pull coil ass out and let hang 14 Now you need another special tool that will compress the lock shaft. you screw it on to the end of the wheel shaft and compress the lock shaft to remove the retaining ring that holds it in place 15 Once the ring is off you pull the lock shaft out and the cam assembly turn signal canceling assembly the spring and other parts I didn't remove. 16 You now remove the 3 screws that hold the turn signal switch assembly and pull forward the turn assembly 17 Now there is a switch assembly buzzer to pullout you take a paper clip and push up on the retaining clip that hold this buzzer in place and remove 18 Finally you are ready to remove the ignition lock cylinder. Remove the lock retaining screw that holds the cylinder in place 19 Now unhook wire at lower end of the column and attach a piece of wire to the end and pull up through the column.while removing the switch 20 Now you have the wire to attach to the new switch wire and pull back through the column. 21Now you put every thing back together. 22 HAVE FUN AND GOOD LUCK. BY THE WAY NEMO WHAT IS PARK?

I unhooked the battery both + and - terminals. The next day I took the air bag off with no problems

Thanks Dave I thought they were torx because all the ones I tried didn't work. I think a stubby would be my best bet

Hi just wondering what screwdriver and size do I need to remove the Air bag. If anyone knows what the 4 screws in the back of the wheel that hold the air bag module on are. Thanks