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Goodkarmechanic

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About Goodkarmechanic

  • Birthday 12/11/1960

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  1. Sold Drag Racing magazine July 1964 "Big Daddy" Don Garlitz good to excellent condition, 11 x 8.5" approx 66 pages From the estate of Porsche racer Tom Ohmer. Price is $15 including Shipping to the U.S. I take Zelle and paypal (friends preferred)
  2. Removed years ago. Threads are in good condition. Pitch is 1/4 x 20" I believe this fits Cadillac V8 engines from 1967 through 1974. Price is $35 including shipping to the U.S. I take Zelle and Paypal (friends preferred)
  3. I worked as a tech at an independent shop for over 35 years and had a lot of EEC iv experience. I agree with what Bloo said above and recommend an all or nothing approach. Your computer controlled carb is possible chronically lean because of an air bleed system built into it causing the rough running or the EGR is partially stuck open. The base of the egr and external tube, if it has one, will get hot if this is the case. They can usually be cleaned and operated a few times with a hand held vacuum pump to exercise the valve so the pintle fully closes with no vacuum applied. if it is not fully closed at idle the idle quality will be terrible. I'd recommend either restore the vehicle as built or, depending on laws in your state, you may be able to replace the carb and Distributor with non EEC iv parts and go to a 70's version of engine management without computer controlled fuel or spark control. In the case of the ignition system that would require either going completely aftermarket, or adapting to a 70's style Dura Spark system with centrifugal and vacuum advance. The Duraspark had its own issues so might be best to go aftermarket. There is a lot to know and understand about the EEC iv system. Once you get the basics and the system is functioning they tend to work pretty well. I found this for you that may help familiarize yourself with the parts of the EEC iv and how they work. Good Luck. https://www.fordsix.com/threads/eec-iv-basics.82486/
  4. Sold. Gang of 4 power window switches for driver's door. Fits Early to mid 60's GM cars with switches in armrest. Buick, Cadillac, Oldsmobile. I do not know all the cars or years this switch fits. It was out of a 65 Riviera. Sold for parts or repair. 1 of the 4 switches has extra play when moved into the up position. I've included pictures of it in the center position and in the up position. (last 2 pics) It feels normal when pulled to the down position but has little resistance when moved to the up position. These can be taken apart and usually repaired. I no longer have the car around me so I'm selling this in case someone can use it. Chrome is not very pitted and should shine up with some Triple-ot steel wool. It is dusty from sitting in my parts cart for years. I did a continuity test moving the switches up and down and all the switches passed except for the lazy one moved in the loose direction.. Price is $47 Shipped to the us. I have zelle and Paypal.
  5. Chiltons Domestic Auto Repair Manual. 1970 - 1977 A great reference if you work on Vintage American vehicles. Vehicle specific sections and General Repair sections. Book has been used but has clean pages and has been taken care of. Price is $5 plus shipping. if interested please reply with your zip code for a shipping estimate.
  6. SOLD Ad update : The car has been SOLD My cousin had the car painted last June (2023) and it looks great. He has been responding to the cancer treatments and celebrated a year past diagnosis in Sept. I've attached new photos of the car below. I am happy to answer any questions and put serious buyers in touch with him.
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