Cokekid
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Posts posted by Cokekid
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19tom40
I will give it a try..
Thanks
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Ray500
That's how I thought it should have been done. Instead when I went out to get some gas and returned he had attached the cables from the charger to the battery Positive to Positive Negative to negative. One side of the the coil was hot . I disconnected the coil to test it like skip sent inserted folder for the coil I had rebuilt by Skip.
Here are the readings I now get
Skips Reading
Brass coil to brushes both .7 I get .6 ohm
Brash coil to spring 4000 -, 4500 I get 5600 ohm om both springs
I take it my coil is toast.?
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While working on the car my neighbor he want's to connect a charger to the battery with the car battery cables already connected to the battery. My question is how should the charger cables be connected to the battery.?
The reason I ask, our car have a Negative Positive.
Gerry
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19tom40
I looked inside the holder and as you stated and there was a piece of cardboard stuck inside. Removed the piece and the fuse went in.
Thanks
Gerry
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abelincon
The fuse holder has always been there. I guess it's time to change to a new holder so the fuse will fit.
Thanks
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I bought a 1 /1/4" #10 fuse and when I tried to install the fuse in it's original holder I was unable to close the holder together. The fuse sticks out about a 1/4 inch. I sprayed inside the holder thinking that the spring maybe frozen but that didn't work.
Is there suppose to be a smaller size for this fuse.?
Gerry
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55er
That's the info I was looking for. There is now no need to ask about the other size fuses in the car as the came with the photo.
Thanks
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1
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On my Overdrive Control Regulator there is a fuse wire coming from the main Cowl Harness to the top of the Regulator. I am not able to find out what size fuse I require.
Gerry
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Paul
I had phoned Narragansett a couple of times but nobody answered/ I will give RI a call.
Thanks
Gerry
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I am in need of some wiring for the Head Lights & Horn. Is there a company that I can order these parts from.?
Gerry
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Ken.
The project is on hold, as I am waiting for my coil to be rebuilt by Skip. I am glad to hear that I can use a ford axel.
Thanks for the info
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I down loaded the wiring diagram. All the wires are now connected.
Thanks.
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Tom O.D
Down loaded the wiring from Boo's. I cannot use the color code on my car as both wires are red, From what I see on the wiring diagram, If I am facing the car one wire from #2 goes to the left condenser and #3 to the right.
Hope this is correct.
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I have this box which I assume is for my Overdrive. There are two wires connected to it. One wire connects to a tab marked #2 and the other is connected to a tab #3. My question is does it matter were they are connected on the coil.
Gerry
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Here are my results for using the Cylinder Leakage Tester. Before starting the test on each cylinder, I brought them up to top dead center.
Here is the starting sequence I had to do for each cylinder.
Turn on the compressor to read 100 psi
Each cylinder had to be brought up to top dead center
Then connect the hose into the plug hole The other end is connected to the tester
Connect the compressor hose to the tester
Turn the left hand gauge up to 60 PSI
Listen for any air escaping from either of the four places as shown in the photo.
Take the psi reading from the right side and subtract it from 60 psi and this the percentage loss for that cylinder
Here are my readings
#1 Loss 6% through Crankcase
#2 Loss 12% through Crankcase
#3 Lost 24% through Crankcase
#4 Lost 18% through Crankcase
#5 Lost 28% through Carburetor
#6 Lost 14% through Crankcase
#7 Lost 12% through Crankcase
#8 Lost 50% through Carburetor
#9 Lost 48% through Carburetor
#10 Lost 48% through Carburetor
#11 Lost 8% through Carburetor
#12 Loss 10% through Crankcase
Did I do both test correctly.? I'm no sure but both reading seem to indicate I have a problem.
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19tom40
When I used the compression gauge I removed the plugs ,had the throttle open up wide and had the battery fully charged. I even left the trickle charger connected to the battery while doing the test.
I hand tightened the cable into the plug hole and was turning the engine over eight times for each cylinder.
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Ray
I never had any reading until now. Here are the two gauges I will be using .
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This engine was rebuilt 10 yrs ago with all new parts. This is the first time I have tried to start it.
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19tom40
I did another dry test and followed up with a wet test. The reading for the dry test went up a little not sure why. I was also interested as to why you pointed out #6 as possible the culprit.
Here are the readings .
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Something tells me I'm in trouble after taking these readings.
Cylinder readings
1 28
2 20
3 30
4 30
5 38
6 10
7 30
8 30
9 30
10 30
11 40
12 40
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C.Douglas
The engine has been turned over a few times by hand in the last month while installing the distributor. I will do a compression test as you and 19tom40 have suggested
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I decided it was time to turn the engine over. The first thing I heard was a puffing sound as the engine turned. I again started the engine to try and locate were it was coming from and while doing this my hand passed over the carburetor and I felt the air was coming out the top of it.
I am at a loss as to what would cause this to happen.
Gerry
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I wish there more video's like this one.
Gerry
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cdan34
Looks good, I wish that I would have done this to mine when the engine was out.
Gerry
49 Lin push button door
in V12 Lincolns Only
Posted
I went to the garage today to do some repairs inside the car., When I pushed the button the door would not open. I checked to to make sure I had not locked the door . I then went through the drivers side and tried ever thing to try and get the driver door open and was not able to get it to open.
I was wondering if anyone has run across this problem
Gerry