Advice on potential purchase of a 1950 Roadmaster convertible

JUST FOR REFERENCE I POSTED THIS ON THE AACA GENERAL SITE AS WELL. (Actually posted there first by accident).

Hi all -

I have had an interest in 1950 Buick's for many years and I now have an opportunity to buy a 1950 Roadmaster convertible with 130K on the odometer and I need advice. The car is very, very solid from a rust viewpoint and as far as I can tell and it only needs the drivers side floor panel replaced in terms of rust. The car has good glass and frames but needs a new top and paint and most of the interior redone (has fairly new leather seats). All of the chrome and stainless is on the car with typical dimples and small dings. The rear tail light bezels and lenses are in great condition. The owner removed the water pump and radiator to have the water pump rebuilt but did not finish the job so I have not heard it run but he seems very much to be a straight shooter and claims the engine runs fine. Hydraulics need to be redone and I am unsure of the electrical systems shape overall. I will be getting under it more before purchase but the underside looks good too, however, it is so dirty it is hard to tell. The current owner bought it from the original owner and it has been in Fresno, CA it's entire life but it has been sitting outside under a tarp for about 10 years. My plan for the car is to do a frame on restoration over a few years. For those in the club that are knowledgeable about this model or year in particular are there things that I should look for that are unique and/or troublesome that I should watch out for? Are there any specific parts issues with this model and year that I should be aware of? The seller and I are wrangling around a 16-17K purchase price at this time... thoughts on price? Thank you in advance for any thoughts you can share. - Matt

I have a 1950 Roadmaster 2-dr hardtop that I have restored. Problem areas are the bottoms of the parking light housings--they always get crushed and/or rust out; the three-piece exhaust manifold easily develops cracks and can be expensive to replace; the back-up light housings also like to rust out and/or get crushed; fabric-covered wiring gets old and bare, especially under the hood where it is exposed to temperature extremes. If I were you, I would not make the deal until you can hear it run. If you can't hear it run, then tell him you are deducting $1500 for the cost of replacing any cracks in the exhaust manifold, because if it runs, you can hear if it has cracks and leaks, and there can be cracks that you can't see or hear if it isn't running. Without a water pump or radiator, running the engine for 30 seconds won't hurt anything.

The hydraulic pump under the front passenger fender can be a problem if the car has been sitting for several years. They can be rebuilt, but it takes time and a rebuild kit available from Hydro-e-Lectric in Florida. Power windows and power seat and top motor can be checked by turning the key on and activating them; car's engine does not have to be running for that. Each hydraulic cylinder is about $150 to rebuild or replace, plus the cost and time of taking the door panels or front seat apart to get at them. Sometimes the problem is in the electrical connections in the switches.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Leonard, Tx

1950 76-R and other Buicks