Michael_V

Hello, I have access to a 1990 Reatta coupe that is maroon with a maroon interior. The radio antenna, radio, dash cluster, light switches, hubcaps, wheels, and owners manual are already gone. Let me know what you need and I'll see what I can come up with and a price. I would like to trade parts for an 89' radio or a good nitrogen cylinder if that's available. I also have cans of R12 available, or if you stop by you can top off your system for free! I'm located here in Winter Garden FL, and you can PM me or contact me at mvanderburg3@yahoo.com. Thanks, Michael Vanderburg

The fitting that is loose is the electrical connection going to the transmission. The oil that is around the modulator now appears to be just from the engine being dirty which is a good thing. I did take apart the air intake today along with the sensors just to give a more through cleaning as well as going over the engine looking for anything unusual. When installing the modulator today I discovered a crack in the hose that I did not see before. There was also rust on the inside of the hose connections not seen in the photo I'm posting. This gave a big red flag that the part was probably junk. After installation I gave a quick drive around the neighborhood finding that the bump when stopping is now gone. The transmission now shifts VERY hard in reverse as well as engaging to drive. I think there might be an adjustment on the modulator by turning a fitting one way or the other inside, though I could be wrong. As for the car running rough, it looks like one of the sparkplug wires in the back was toast as well as the sparkplugs needing to be replaced. Both the wires and plugs are now on order. It's probably also time to flush the transmission fluid as well since it's brown and not red like it should be in photo number two. Thanks everyone for the responses since I didn't know if the modulator was the problem or not.

Thanks for the replies. The car is running a little rough right now though this might be unrelated. I did purchase a new modulator that arrived tonight in the post, and I have yet to install it. It looks nothing like the one on the car, being that it is about half the size of the one that is already on there. Both the IAC and the mas air flow sensor were just taken out and cleaned the other day, with no difference in the way the car runs. It's to dark outside to replace the part, though I do see oil coming from around the modulator and around the plug going into the transmission. By the way this fitting was kind of loose when I checked it the other day looking at the modulator. Also the vacuum line is working going into the modulator.

It's been awhile since I have posted, but here goes. My 89' Reatta with 170,000 miles has developed a strong bump when coming to a stop. I initially thought it was a sticking caliper, but when I place the car in neutral and stop the issue goes away. The car also seems to run better in neutral than when engaged. Then when placing the car back into drive from a stop the car has a hard shift engaging. The vehicle also seems to be racing at idle, and wanting to lurch forward from a stop. Are there any ideas on what this could be?

I'm needing a working window switch for my 89' Reatta. Preferably one with the brushed metal surface. Thanks!

Thanks for the information. I believe I had either a yellow or orange dot on my key. I'll try the vice grips again, but these are on rather tight.

As the title states I recently lost the wheel lock key for my car, and am in need of a replacement. If anyone has an extra let me know how much you would want for it. Thanks! Michael V.

Hello, Does anyone have a part number for the trunk lock of an 89' Reatta? The lock ate most of my key and needs to be replaced. Thanks!

Thanks Barney!

Right now I'm looking for the discontinued repair kit. I have two antennas apart, one with a bent metal extension.

Does anyone have the kit to repair the antenna mast on an 89 Reatta? Thanks!

Hello David, I reused the nut since it was in good shape. I'll have to check on the build date on the car though.

Hi David, I just replaced my drivers side wheel bearing on my 89 yesterday, and I did use a 35mm socket to break it free. I hope this helps.

I just did mine a few months ago. If you remove the motor the sunroof should move freely with a little work. Cover your leather seats with a protective towel so you won't gouge or scrape them with the sharp corners of the assembly once dropped. Also try a RX7 form if you need a new sunroof for parts. There cheep there and I saw many in central Florida for around $100. That's where I got mine, and I didn't find it that difficult to rebuild. It works great now, and I no longer have to push up to get it started.

I have the 89 unit taken apart and have even located a source for all the o rings made of EPDM. I just can't find a manufacturer who makes the cups out of that material. There are three cups in two different sizes. The cups are what I believe are leaking. This is to bad or I would be able to rebuild the unit. If there are rebuilt units out there the cups are available somewhere.