RatFink255

Norm, Thanks for the info. Hope your doing well. Got call from Radiator guy yesterday said there were 3 to 4 leaks in the core area and would be about $686 + taxes to re-core. I told him wanted to hold off as not in the budget for that much right now maybe month or two. That being said between what everyone else has been suggesting glad I am putting it off at the moment. will look into what you sent me as well as couple other ideas about finding the leaks and just sealing up the square and going on. With a system that is not pressurized (like modern cars) it should not be all that big of a deal for a while then look into re-corning at a later date. Best regards, Brice

Trying to find out about radiator repair on our old cars, mine being the 1922 Buick Touring car 4 cyl. I doped mine off at the radiator shop this morning and as he was looking at it said it could need to be re-cored (but wont know until he cleans it up and tests it). He said that it would not look like what the original would be and showed me one that looked ok but defiantly not the unique pattern that the old ones have. So I told him lets clean it up and test then decide after that. He did see that there is a a couple spots at the bottom base where core is attached to the base that showed signs of it leaking but did not really see anything in the core itself at the moment. So to get to the question does anyone know of a shop that would re-core the old cars radiators like the original or are we kind of SOL and just have to go the new close style. His quote was about the same as others had mentioned re-coring one $1000 so be that as it may will have to decide that when time comes.

Very cool to be able to have the documentation of the first ride by your Great Grandma like that. I remember meeting my Great Grandma but don't remember to much of what she said think I was about 4 then.

Ya that is kind mind blowing at the cost of it back then, for that time it was a lot of money. Now days we just get a GPS for couple hundred dollars and it has the entire country including places to shop, eat, airports, government facilities, etc....

I thought that people would enjoy this link to early road mapping starting off in 1789. https://arstechnica.com/cars/2020/01/turn-by-turntables-how-drivers-got-from-point-a-to-point-b-in-the-early-1900s/

Yep that is the one picture in the parts book.

Aussie, That would make sense. Now that you said that it has given me and idea on how to make a cap lock with bolt and UHMW material so as not to risk sparking. Thanks.

Found a picture looking on the forum.

I will get a picture of it tonight when get home from work. Unless I can find something that looks close I will post it. To give a description it looks like one of those Micky Mouse hats that the kids get when they go to Disney Land.

Well I am still alive, it has been a while since I posted any progress. I have finally finished the wheels and got all tires facing the same way (white walls out). Have the wheels back on the the frame and off the jack stands. Started now working from the rear up to the front so now is the fuel tank cleaned up and have to repair couple pin holes in the bottom but hey should not be to bad. Do have a question though. As you can see in the pictures this it the fuel cap that was on the tank. It is not like what is shown in the parts book (Micky Mouse ears type). I figure the small hole is the tank vent, but what would go int the bigger hole I can't see it just being open like that for dirt and other contaminates to get in the tank. Skimmed through the parts book and big master book but could not find on that look similar.

Where is best place to get inner tubes and tires from? I pinched an inner tube swapping the tires from black walls to white walls around. Got done fine it was the second one I pinched it right at the end, dam.

Morgan, The axial housing rotates freely as it had to when I put the rear end back to get the propeller shaft (drive shaft) to line up with the differential. when I re-greased the zirk when it got full some did ooze out the between the axial housing and the bearing housing.

Morgan, Are you talking about right here on the axial tube? There is a grease nipple that is used for greasing but I am not sure if it is brass or not. You can't see the grease nipple as covered with masking tape to keep paint off but it is under tape in second and third picture.

Hugh, I did not put the tires on originally. I think dad did. So now going to swap two of them around so they all match, hence asking the best way to do it.

Got wheels back on the frame then started to put tires on got two on then discovered that apparently when the tires were put on two were put on with white walls the other two were put on with black walls. I am going for the white walls all around so have to take two off and re do as the they mount only one way onto the wheels. I got one off just trying to figure the reinstall with out damaging the stem or tire. Mark Kikta, what was the trick to getting the rim inside the tire as it is a rime that is cut and it is close to the valve stem? Did you have the rim separated or secured and locked then work the tire around? Just saw Mark Shaw's reply about using a rime tool and found some pictures showing it being used good idea. Now to find one.