JohnGB

I have a '53 Dodge 6 with 3 speed stick and overdrive. I have most of the pieces to add the factory backup lamp. Anyone know what type of switch it used, and where it is mounted? John B.

Just came across this post. By hard to start, did you mean cranks over slowly, or just wont fire? If it's a slow starter, what has been suggested is worth looking into. If it cranks normally, but just wont fire, might be getting vapor locked. Check the exhaust manifold heat valve. Might be sticking. Also make sure you have a non-metallic spacer under the carb.

I've noticed something a bit odd with my turn signals (factory setup). If I operate the turn signals when the lights are on, the tail lamp (and parking lamp) filament stays lit. All other cars I have experience with cut the tail/parking filament when the turn signal is operating. Is this just the way these were designed, or do I have a switch problem?

Does anyone know what the difference is between the '49-'52 mopar gas tanks (passenger) and the '53-'54 units? Is it just the filler location? I've kind of resigned myself to sending my '53 Dodge tank out to be refurbished. I think it's odd that a lot of parts suppliers advertise tanks for '33 & up Dodge & Plymouth, but in checking, there is a gap from '53-'56. By chance, anyone out there have a useable '53-'54 tank?

I found the following note written in a 1954 Mopar parts book: To replace #1327425 camshaft: Use: #1635792 camshaft #1618718 dowel #1618732 washer #1618666 sprocket # 106751 key #1618717 spacer And: Move sprocket on crankshaft out a little to line up with camshaft sprocket and is now gear driven instead of chain driven. Hope this helps somebody

Just a longshot, but; check the springs that hold down the brushes; I have seen where they can get weak, lose tension, rust thru and snap.

Just my 2 cents worth; I had a '53 Coronet 6 as a daily driver 1969-70. Mechanically almost identical to yours. It would do 65-70 all day long; above that it was noticeably straining. The brakes were good for 1 hard stop; after that they would fade badly. Handling? Straight line, fine. It was not meant to take curves at high speeds. That being said; there's nothing that says you can't enjoy the car today. You have to decide what conditions you are going to be driving under. If you want to take it for leisurely drives on back roads, you don't have to do too much from stock. Otherwise, you can have the head milled a bit to give you a little higher compression. Dual carbs and dual exhaust can help if it's done right. If the carbs are too big it won't idle well. The extra power could allow you to drop the standard 3.90 rear gear to a 3.73 without noticing any acceleration loss. Handling; not much you can do here; maybe heavier coils in front from an early dodge V8,and an extra leaf in the rear springs. Brakes; if you're going to do highways much, best way is a front disk conversion. You could try adding a Hydrovac power booster, or upgrade to the Chrysler 12" brakes, but probably cheaper and easier to go with disks. This has actually been more like a dollar's worth, but you do have different ways to go. Just depends on how you want to use the car. Good luck

Another thing to try (worked for me); found a socket that would fit the end of the puller shaft instead of the dogbone. Used it with a rachet handle with a 4 foot pipe as an extender. After I pulled it tight, just gave it an extra click every couple hours. Took 2 days, but it worked!

Timing can either be easy or a bear. Don't know how much experience you have. Two ways to do it. Easiest way is with a timing light on #1 plug wire. Setting is usually 2 degrees before top dead center. You can use a 12 volt light if you run it off a 12 volt battery such as a good lantern battery or a lawn mower battery. Just darken the mark on the vibration damper. Problem here is that some cars don't have a mark on the damper. 2nd method; There is a small bolt on the cylinder head just above the #6 (rearmost) piston. It can be removed, and an indicator gauge installed to see where top dead center occurs. This is done by slowly bumping the starter. Then you would have to make sure that the points are closing, and the rotor is pointing to #6. Problem here is, that bolt is usually stuck tight. Hope this has been of some help; I can coy that section out of the manual and get it to you regular E-mail. Files seem to be too big for this venue. JohnGB

Hi; Not exactly sure how those older sixes are set up. But, on the later ones; first remove the fan belt. I assume the fan is attached to the water pump pulley. If it is, you should have just enough clearance between fan and radiator to remove the fan bolts. Once you do this, you can remove the fan and pulley from the pump. Then, you should have enough clearance to unbolt the pump and pull it loose. JohnGB

If you're interested in dual intake and/or exhaust manifolds, or disc brake conversions, try www.rustyhope.com

Your flasher unit may be on the engine side of the firewall, just below the voltage regulator. You'll probably need to pull the steering wheel for access to the switch. probably worn or dirty contacts. Don't know how much of it comes apart.

I went back and checked my service manual. It does say to use 10 w oil. However, I noticed that for the overdrive unit, which my car has, in one place they recommend 80W gear oil, but in another, they say 10W. It is possible, that the manual is wrong. Interestingly, my service manual mentions nothing about fluid drive. It is only mentioned in the owners manual. I did find an older reference from 1940 for the transmission, which recommends 'gear lube', and it is the same lube that goes in the steering box. As far as I know, those gearboxes were the same from 1940-54. I think the only differences were in the tailshafts and input gears. All I can suggest at this point; once you change the seal, put in the 10W oil. If it still leaks, drain it and go with a 90W gear oil. Or, if someone has a service manual a few years older, see what the lube recommendation is there.

Before you start, check one thing. If memory serves, the fluid drive units did not have a common oil supply with the 3 speed gearbox. The fluid drive unit would use the 10W oil, but the 3 speed gearbox may need 90W. The clutch mechanism fits between the fluid drive unit and the gearbox.

Hi; I assume you have the 'Gyromatic ' trans? Try Googling Roberts motor parts and Andy Bernbaum. Also, recommend a copy of Hemmings motor News. I have a '53 Coronet 6 myself, 4 door, stick w/overdrive. Long, long way to go with it yet.