TallJohn

Thanks

This has happened to me about three times in the last five years since my car has been roadworthy. I go to get gas, unscrew the gas cap and woosh, there seems to be pressure in the tank. I had put a new sending unit assembly in the refurbished gas tank prior to installation. Overflow tube attached. Is it as simple as getting a " vented" cap? Pinched overflow/vent hose? Anyone else have this issue? Car runs fine, just kind of strange feeling the pressure come out when taking the cap of. Happens rarely. Thanks folks.

Thank you sir...

Ok. Thanks. Just need a little brighter than stock.

Thanks. I will check them out...

Thanks. I will check out DashTop. Reno is a quick shipment to Sacramento.

I will take a look. Thanks.

Greetings and Happy New Year. Just wondering if anyone out there has purchased the dash cap from OPGI and what do you think of it for $179.00? I re-upholstered my dash pad, looks good, but..... Also can any of you recommend a good brand of replacement headlamps you have put on your 63 or 64. Mine are original type and I would like something much brighter. There seems to be quite a bit to pick from out theer. Thought someone could narrow it down for me. Thanks. Have a good weekend.

Gulp

Saw this at Winco today.I hear it is distilled with 30 wt. from 64 nailheads. Can also be used as octane boost!

Thanks for the replies. I will delve into the ignition switch deeper. In the meantime, I switched back to an original type VR. Took out the new, but inexpensive solid state VR. No problems as for now. Three drives, did not die. Ignition switch and distributor ground wire will get a good look when the weather cools down! Thanks everyone....

OPGI carries them , maybe CARS inc. as well...

Hi all. In my last post I was having charging problems. Problem was fixed by replacing my new Delco Remy voltage regulator which was bad out of the box ( $89.00 non returnable!) with a solid state VR from O Reilly's ( !! $34.00) and the 2 wire pig tail that plugs into the back of the alternator had the wires reversed from the factory. Reversed them and all was well, or so I thought. Consistent VR reads 13.9 to 14.1. Yay. Now however on my last three drives after the new charging parts installed, the car dies after driving for approx 10 min. Pull over to the side of the road, Starts right up and on my way. Today it stalled twice though. Scary safety issue( help no brakes!! ha) . No chugging, wierd noises or anything . It just dies. So I guess my question is has anyone had a similar problem? Do you think it is related to the alternator or VR? Car has never done this before. Coincidental to the new parts or a new problem? Im kind of thinking it electrical related... relays? Any thoughts? The car runs like a bat out of hell, but since the new parts change out a couple of weeks ago the current problem popped up. Thanks, John

Thanks for the replies. Did some more tinkering with the VR this morning. Amp light barely on at idle , goes away at higher rpm. VR Quiet, charging. I will keep tinkering....Continuity is good, double checked...Thanks all...

I had done a continuity test to begin with, but I will do it again to double check. When I started it this morning I increased VR to 14.2 at idle, no buzzing, but Amp light remains on solid and the VR was clicking at the speed of a turn signal and amp light was flickering at the same rhythm of the points tapping each other. Car is charging fine. Took in for a spin, now no clicking at all ( Hmmmm). Charging fine but amp light still on...ugh

Positive cable is brand new. Ground cable three or four years old. Are you thinking that would be the cause of the voltage regulator buzzing so much as well as the amp light staying on even though the system is charging?

Problem partly solved. I had bought a new connector and wired in the blue and white wires accordingly. all continuity good as stated before . Although my splice was good, the leads in the head of the plug were reversed from the parts store. I switched them and car was charging immediately. Lesson learned on the blu and white wire to the back of the alternator. Diode test was good too! Now the new issue. Amp light stays on and the voltage regulator is buzzing loudly at idle. Very annoying. System is at 13.3 at idle and 15.2 at higher rpm. Buzzing stops with acceleration , louder as I come to a stop. Amp light is continuous while the car is on. Any thoughts? Thanks. Ad thanks Riviera 63 for leading me to take a second look at the connector.

I will take a stab at this. Just replaced my alternator and decided to replace my voltage regulator and connector at the same time. I can't get a reading over 12.4 volts anywhere in the system (battery at 12.4). Checked all the wires for continuity and resistance, all good with only a bit of resistance on the brown wire going from the connector back to the firewall. Driving me nuts so I took the new alternator to the local O'Reilly's and had it bench tested, tested ok 13.4 to 15.8 volts ( even said the voltage regulator was fine! Regulator is external! hmmm.) After a few more You tube videos later I did a diode test on it. It failed. Would a failed diode cause the alternator not to put out voltage from the BAT term on the alternator? No buzzing from the voltage regulator, adjusted tension spring, nothing. Maybe I got a bad alternator from Summit Racing to begin with. My "ground" is good and both of my multimeters are working fine. Anything else I should check before I send the alternator back? Bench test vs. what is happening in the car makes me scratch my head... In addition I have gone through previous articles in the Riview and nothing quite hits home. I tried the suggestions. You Tube videos helped some, but problem not solved. Thanks for any suggestions you might come up with ....

Just saw the paint formula you want in the Riview Vol 3 #2 page 10. hope that helps...

Thanks for the replies and stories. Thankful I had put the hood down when I tried to start it. I tend to believe my ca'rs system was not at fault, a bad battery I over charged. I will see what Costco pro rates the battery at. Can't wait to tell'em it no longer holds a charge when I hand it to them in pieces!haha

Based on a couple of articles I read a few hours ago, thats probably correct. When I get a new battery tomorrow I will check my charging system on the car to make sure the system isn't over charging and keep it off the battery tender. I'm feeling a little hinky after the explosion!. Thanks for the reply.

Greetings . I took my 64' to a local car show about three miles away yesterday. Everything worked fine. I came out today and the battery was almost dead even though I had it on a battery tender. I put it on the big charger for a couple of hours today. Un hooked the charger , closed the hood and turned the ignition...Boom! Battery blew up. Scared the heck out of me to say the least. Battery is correct and only 2 yrs old. From everything I have read on battery explosions it sounds like my sealed battery may have been dry, plates touching etc. Cables were clean. I guess my question is is there anything in the charging system of the car ( overcharging) that could have caused the problem? Battery was acting dead so I don't think it was overcharged when I charged it. Maybe I keep it on the battery Tender too long ( a week at a time) thus drying out the battery? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank God my head wasn't under the hood and had a buddy turning the key. Battery acid and plastic schrapnel everywhere. Crazy.

Thanks guys . Just dropped it at the shop that did my motor. No charge Yahoo. Thanks for the tip if there is a " next time" !

So I just read the string again. Looks like I need to have the sleeves pressed out. Thanks KongaMan

OK. So the bushings arrived today ( energy 37111g) and they are too big. Upon further inspection of the track bar it looks like there is a pressed in metal sleeve making the inside diameter just small enough that the bushings don't fit. Inside dia. is about 44.4mm. Bushings are 48.5mm. Is there really a metal sleeve in the track rod or do my eyes deceive me? Track rod out of another year? Any thoughts? Thanks.