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Motul 600 brake fluid (long)


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I have been reading about premium brake fluids on some enthusiasts pages and have come across several references to Montu 600. It appears to be promoted as being less hygroscopic and has high anti-corrosion qualities. This potentially, if true and not just marketing could be very good for the Reatta's brake system. Is this marketing or might there be some benefits here?<BR> <A HREF="http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/bkfld.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/bkfld.htm</A> <BR>100% synthetic fluid (polyglycol base) with very high thermal resistance and stability. Motul 600 remains stable over time thanks to it's high resistance to moisture and maintains it's initial properties longer than DOT 3 or 4. It has a boiling point of 585F, is compatible with all SAE J1703, DOT 3, and 4 fluids and features high anti-corrosion qualities. Mixable with DOT 3 / DOT 4 / DOT 5.1 fluids. Do not mix with silicone or mineral based fluids.<BR> <A HREF="http://www.c5-corvette.com/C5_Handling.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.c5-corvette.com/C5_Handling.htm</A> Half way down the page under Brake Fluid Upgrades. Chart showing wet and dry boiling points. Appears to be less hygroscopic? because of higher wet boiling point? Is this a valid conclusion?<BR> <A HREF="http://www.mr2pp.com/brakes.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.mr2pp.com/brakes.html</A> Motul 100% Synthetic Dot 4 Brake Fluid, Extremely low moisture absorption, Dry boiling point 585 F, Wet boiling point 421 F. Mixes with all DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 fluids. Not compatible with silicone fluids. Makes an excellent clutch fluid. <BR> <A HREF="http://www.jamnmotorsports.com/motul.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.jamnmotorsports.com/motul.htm</A> <BR>100% synthetic brake fluid for brake and clutch systems. Motul 600 remains stable over time thanks to it's high resistance to moisture and maintains it's initial properties longer than DOT 3 or 4. It has a boiling point of 585F, is compatible with all SAE J1703, DOT 3, and 4 fluids and features high anti-corrosion qualities. <P> I would be thinking of flushing with a regular dot 4 fluid to get all the moisture out and then flush with Motu 600 which is expensive. These are just a few excerpts. I am thinking that this could be a very good brake fluid for the Reatta. Anyone else have experience or opinions on this? What would the fluid capacity of the Reatta's brake system? <P>Thanks in advance to everyone, Robert

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While perhaps not as good as the Motul 600, we continue with the search for the "perfect brake fluid" and we end up at our old friends <A HREF="http://www.alfredteves.com/english/indexmit.htm?produkte/fluid.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.alfredteves.com/english/indexmit.htm?produkte/fluid.htm</A> "the Continental Teves Aftermarket Homepage". <BR>Where we find the Original ATE Brake fluid Type 200. and doing a cut and paste we find...<BR>Minimal decrease of boiling point due to excellent water locking properties. <BR>Non-foaming when filling and bleeding the brake system. <BR>Excellent corrosion protection due to selected additives. <BR>High safety tolerance against steam bubbles. <BR>Makes brake fluid changing intervals of up to 3 years possible. <P>Standards conformed to: FMVSS No. 116 - DOT4 and DOT3* SAE J1703 DIN/ISO 4925 <BR>Boiling point: at least 280°C (50°C over DOT4) <BR>Wet boiling point: 200°C (45°C over DOT4)<BR>Sounds nearly ideal for our Teves system, excellent water locking properties, corrosion protection, changing intervals of up to 3 years possible and manufactured by our good friends at Continental Teves!<P>Further reading in other high performance and racing pages produces an interesting variations in colors of the brake fluid as follows... <A HREF="http://www.ogracing.com/ogshell/loadpage.pl?10192+catbrak.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.ogracing.com/ogshell/loadpage.pl?10192+catbrak.html</A> Half way down the page under "Brake Fluid" ...<BR>ATE SUPER BLUE RACING - ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid for the extreme demands of racing conditions. Dry boiling point of 536°F; wet boiling point of 392°F. Suitable for all brake and clutch systems rated for DOT brake fluids. Comes in 1 liter metal container.<BR>ATE1SBLT ATE Blue Brake Fluid, 1 liter $9.95 <P>And right below ...<BR>ATE TYPE 200 (ATE Gold) - ATE Type 200 - same specifications as Super Blue Racing fluid except DOT 3/4 approved. Can be used in ABS systems. Comes in 1 liter metal container. <BR>ATEGLT ATE Type 200 Brake Fluid (ATE Gold), 1 Liter $9.95<BR>These are their highest specification brake fluids. One comes in the color gold the other in the color blue. Why two colors? Well with gold in the system you flush with blue and you can easily tell when you have flushed the old gold out of the system - upon color change! Next flush - change the color to gold, and on and on etc.<P>Opinions please? There must be someone who can comment on these brake fluids. Am I barking up the wrong tree?<P>Thanks in advance, Robert<p>[ 11-02-2001: Message edited by: Drive it like I stole it. ]

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I used about 2 quarts each time I flushed My system. As far as quality of each fluid goes I believe there are some fluids on the market that are better than the old fluids We have used and they have some great characteristics BUT, If You do not dissassemble Your entire system, there is no way You can get 100% of the old fluid out. These fluids are not compatible with each other. If You took all Your units off and drained and flushed them then You could be better off but I wonder if it would be worth the headaches.

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I think that you will find that these all are mineral based fluids not silicone which would be totally incompatible. The ATE Brake fluid Type 200 might be the stock fluid the Reatta's were filled with at assembly?

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I am not sure what was installed at the factory. My guess it is a cheap bulk fluid. But no matter what it was I dont mix fluids. If it calls for DOT3, thats what I use. I have never tried mixing so I cant say what will happen. Just was told and have read in shop manuals that it is a bad thing to do. If I had a fresh system with no fluid in it than I would look at some of the new fluids out. Just My opinion and everyone has one.

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Experiment with your finish or interior if you really have to try the latest Internet Wonder Product. Considering the expense, difficulty to repair, and parts unavailability of our ABS, it does not make sense to use anything other than the packaged for GM recommended fluid when flushing.

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