Running Poorly At Idle

[Howard]

A new problem has cropped up. Today, the car started fine, first turn of the key as always. Backed out of the drive and stopped at the stop sign on the corner. At this point the car acted as if it wanted to die, but did not, engine winds down, then back up like a pulse. I hit the gas and again the car really did not want to go, but left the corner, almost as if it was running out of fuel, then all of sudden it leapped away and ran fine to my destination. Heading home, the car started fine and ran OK till the first stop sign and the same thing happened. I stopped to get a bite to eat, upon returning to the Reatta in the resturant parking lot, someone stopped me to ask about the car. As always, I was happy to show off my good friend. While I was demoing the CRT display, the car was idling fine then all of a sudden it started acting like it is running out of fuel, the engine pulsing up and down. Also, there was a knocking noise. At first I thought, oh no not the HB again. I think the belt tensioner was what was making the noise because the engine was pulsing. Once on the highway home, it run as if nothing was wrong. No codes were set. When at highway speed the engine runs fine without any noticeable miss or pulse. Any thoughts? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />

[Guest MauiWowee]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">stopped at the stop sign on the corner.

OK till the first stop sign

someone stopped me </div></div>

Don't STOP!!

<img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

(sorry Howard, I couldn't resist) Good luck

[Guest F14CRAZY]

My car did something like that recently, due to a loose battery terminal

[alexhouston]

My car did exactly that. I found the injector wires disentigrated and burned up. Sometimes ran great, and other times hardly ran, particularly at idle. Never set a code!

[Guest EDBS0]

Hi Howard.

I am going out on a limb on this one but I think it has something to do with the car trying to go into closed loop too soon.

It appears as though the car when cold is running well on the default program but once it warms up or sufficient time has passed to go into closed loop it does and gets confused. It would happen a couple times a year for me.

My fix. Shut it off and restart. my problem occurred mid spring and late fall. Just something about the temperature.

When was the last time you put plug wires on it or pushed them on tight on the plugs?

Good luck. Robert

[91Reatta798]

Howard,

I wish I could help, but it sounds like the same stalling problem I've been wrestling with. At idle and slow speed (coming to a stop, starting from stops) she pulses frequently and stalls fairly often. I've tried a lot of fixes- coil pack, plug wires, spark plugs, PCV, fuel filter, IAC, TPS, cleaning the throttle body, air filter, problably other things I can't remember right now. So, if you do find a solution, I would like to hear it. If I happen to find one this decade, I'll share it with everyone. Good luck

[Howard]

Robert, I think it does have something to do with the closed loop. Being the weekend, I've had a little more time to check out the problem. I really have not come to any sort of conclusion, but here is what I know so far. The car starts fine. With the CRT set on ECM DATA, I can tell the car runs just fine till it goes into "closed loop". At this point the car runs very badly. Even pressing the gas, the car does not want to move forward, then will finally get on its way. The only thing of note. When the car is first started the O2 sensor reading in 10.02. It does not change, then after a while the reading will fluctuate and the OXY will flash off and on. I don't know if this is normal for the reading to take awhile to change. I know it's normal for the light to flash. I'm still no closer the figuring out what is amiss (pun intended). With this new info, does anyone have any more thoughts?

[Howard]

At last the code E013 showed up. According to the "book" that's an open circuit on the O2 sensor. I've noticed the part does not seem to cost that much, but it looks sort of hard to get to. Any advise on quick removal/replacement?

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I get at oxygen sensors from the top with a closed end wrench. I know it's metric but I used a 15/16ths or something like that

[alexhouston]

A deep socket with the side cut out to slide over the wire is available at most auto parts stores. I paid $6.00+/-. Makes many applications very easy. Beats busted knuckles trying a wrench.

[Guest DTerry]

I used an open end wrench, size unknown, and it was surprisingly easy. From the top, as I remember. Maybe just seemed easy because I changed the plugs and wires at the same time and that was a real pita chore.

[Guest EDBS0]

Righty tightly

Lefty loosely.

I reach from passenger's side of engine.

Unplug the wire.

Basically I reach horizontally under the head but over the exhaust manifold.

Put the wrench on it, grunt and once it loosens it is easy to turn.

Install new one and tighten.

[Howard]

Thanks for all the info. I'll report back when I've done the deed. Hopefully, that will fix my idle problem.

[Guest Copper81]

Howard, I also was having problems with my O2 sensor (got the E013 code). I changed the sensor out but wanted to tell you my experience with doing that. It was basically "welded" in from heat and age and would not budge with a wrench. I tried a deep well socket but with the wire coming out, the socket would not fit over it. Since I was going to replace the sensor anyway, I decided to break the top off the sensor and then the complete socket fit around the sensor and grabbed all of the walls of the socket. I used a 3/4 inch drive with an extension and a breaker bar. It took all I had to push on the breaker bar but it finally broke loose. I forgot to mention that I soaked the O2 sensor with some penetrating oil for two days then tried to remove the sensor. If all the other suggestions here don't do the trick, you may want to resort to this method. But after replacing the sensor, my 88 ran just fine and I saw a big increase in the MPG!!

[Howard]

In the shop manual, there is mention that the car such be ran a little while to rise the exhaust manifold temp to 125 degrees. Thats great, but that would make somthing hard to get to, even more difficult to remove due to the high temp. So far, I've not done anything yet, but will report back if the replacement solved my idle problem. Again, thanks to all as always.

[HSV]

Has anyone came up with a solution? My 89 goes into closed loop while cold and I have to "feather" the accelarator to keep it from going dead, then it drops out of closed loop and runs normal. This is getting to be a pain.