Guest Randy Berger Posted November 10, 2005 Share Posted November 10, 2005 Can anyone recommend a repair person/shop for rebuilding an ignition switch? I contacted one rebuilder, but his quote seemed very expensive. Maybe my mind is just back in my era of car - 1956 If you have experience or knowledge of any competent rebuilder please let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Randy Berger Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 No on else ever had this done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stude8 Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 I don't know what part of your switch is defective, the lock cylinder and key should be repairable at any competant lock shop. The switch section may be subtituted with another brand assembly if it is the usual CW rotation ACCESS-LOCK-RUN-START sequence. Try http://www.parts123.com/studebaker.htm, they have reproduced the Studebaker type used for 1950-65 years, if they are not the reproducer they will know who is. Stude8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Wolf Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 Anything that new I just keep my Eye on E-bay and get a NOS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted November 11, 2005 Share Posted November 11, 2005 Randy,I don't know of anyone specifically advertising this service; is the problem in the lock cylinder itself or in the switch section ?A good locksmith should be able to work on any cylinder/key issues; if the trouble is in the switch part...that might spell doom...I've worked on a few of my own switches over the years...the biggest problem is getting them apart to work on the guts: the switch is usually a die-cast housing that has tabs or fingers which get folded or swaged-over the phenolic insulating block...these bits usually break when you try to pry them open, or when you go to seal things up again... I experienced both success and failure in these attempts...Standard Ignition has pretty good coverage on old stuff like this...I would try to find another switch, if you could...if for no other reason than to have a spare in case you decide to "operate"...Good luck !Frank McMullen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Randy Berger Posted November 12, 2005 Share Posted November 12, 2005 Frank, Jay and Stude8, thanks for your replies. The trouble is not in the tumbler but in the switch itself. I have continuity between the BAT and START terminals. Also between the BAT and IGN terminals. I think some wiring has burnt up because of this. I've shopped around but no one has any NOS switches. They are held in the dash by a specially designed ferrule that holds two lugs on the side of the die casting, so any old ACC,OFF,ON,START switch won't do. I had an old one so I tore it apart and it was loaded with old grease. I cleaned it up but now have to swage it back together. JPINTO advertises in Hemmings that he'll rebuild it but wants a minimum of $100.00. Seems way expensive to me. I'll look on the Studebaker site and thanks for the tip. Thanks all for responding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted November 12, 2005 Share Posted November 12, 2005 Randy,The Twist-lock bezel sounds similar to FoMoCo products of the period...perhaps there's an interchange ?Sounds like there was high internal resistance in the switch?The contact-end of the dash-mounted ignition switch of my '72 Chevy pick-up literally popped-apart from the die-cast housing...the die-cast tabs had given way...the rest of the die-cast housing was spider-webbed with fine cracks.Will keep my eyes open for a switch... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Randy Berger Posted November 13, 2005 Share Posted November 13, 2005 Frank, I saw several Fomoco switches that looked real close. I tore apart the original switch and cleaned it up internally. I know about die-castings going bad. I collect old toy trains as a hobby and the deterioration of some of those castings is remarkable. Yes, if you see a good switch, give me a poke in the ribs.Thanks for the response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 Yes... good-old pot-metal...Pre-Depression pot-metal seems to be the most unstable...don't know if it's simply a factor of age or whether they improved the alloy after about 1930...I've run into bad potmetal mostly in old talking machines...particularly Columbia and inexpensive machines... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Randy,I checked my Standard Ignition "older car" catalog (c. 1988) for a switch for your Packard...no such luck.However, the switch for Ford/Lincoln/Mercury/Edsel '55-'59 lists as Standard # US-13...might be worth a look at your local jobber...Will also check my local Mom'n'Pop that handles KEM... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Randy Berger Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Frank, thanks for the heads-up. When I get back home I will check it out. I tore apart the original switch. It took me a good while because I didn't want top break the die-casting. I removed a lot of crusty old grease, cleaned up the copper parts and applied a thin coat of new dielectric grease. Continuity tests say it's OK. I'll have to wait till I get home because I think there are now some wiring problems to verify. I'm enjoying a free turkey dinner in the wilds of Minnesota (minneapolis) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Soto Frank Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Randy,I had to rebuild the "sealed" headlight switch on my '60 Windsor after a complete and unexpected failure one night...It involved drilling out two tube rivets that held the case together, then carefully disassembling, cleaning, and repairing the rivet/contact stud that connected the main power lug to the circuit breaker contact - the original peening job wasn't very accurate...a little solder and a lot of hope seemed to remedy that problem.I put the whole thing back together using 4-40 machine screws & nuts in place of rivets...It's worked well (thank goodness) since June...I hate trying to work on anything that involves disturbing crimped or swaged die-cast ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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