Jump to content

Repair Help Needed


My91TC

Recommended Posts

it seems that the first account I created (New2TCs) was deleted so here's my new one. As an update for anyone who read my first post regarding my inherrited TC, I've decided to keep it, as long as I can get a few of these problems taken care of.(it just rides to nice and is so fun to drive)

Here's what I know of so far that is wrong:

Gear Shift Indicator does not work(help?)

Center brake light does not light, read somewhere it's not hard, just a pain to get off.(don't really needs help at this time)

Trunk Release/trunk light doesn't work (I'll explain further down that wireing mess)

Parking brake doesn't do anything but turn on the brake warning light (not a major concern, it's a V6)

Power Antenna doesn't always go up or down when it should(ideas??)

Right Front CV Joint gone bad (getting repaired at my mechanic's in next week or two so I can start driving the car again, anything they need to be aware of?)

Rear Window Defrost Button does not seem to work (will confirm tonight or tomorrow, no a big deal since the hard top won't be on much for the next 4-5 months)

Heater Core inlet hose bypassed, presumably because it's cracked or broken. need to pressure test it to verify for sure.(anyone got a spare, and advice on replacing it?)

Opera Windows look very bad, lots of dirt and fog inside them (already read how to fix, just need to do it)

Engine Temp gauge does not read anything 99% of time, assume to be loose wire or bad sending unit.(help?)

Interior needs some things replaced, anyone with spare black interior parts let me know what you have and how much you want for it, and I'll let you know if I need/want it.

Now on to the aforementioned wireing mess.

the power wires that are in the wireing bundle going to the deck lid seem to be disconnected from anything, no ground, no hot. there is a 3rd wire (always 12V hot, and it had many bare wire splces) that was ran up alongside the bundle and wired into the deck lid light, that then splits(backfeeds) into the electric release (through the connector of the bundled wires that are otherwise unpowerd) The wireing to the push button has a 20Ohm short in it somewhere, and when the ignition is on, only 10v flows through the switch as opposed to 12 that is everywhere else in the car.

The 3rd wire is split off of a wireing bundle hidden inside the interior panel next to the drivers left foot. (can someone open that up and take a picture of what that is supposed to look like for me??) I will try and get a picture taken and posted of that wireing mess in the next few days.

so my main questions re: the decklid wireing are, where do the wires in the bundle go to, and how/where do they interract with the wires going to the push button switch, and where could that short be located at?

I know it's a long one, but I figured better one long one then a bunch of little ones.

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The Oprea windows are two pieces of glass that are glued together. The fogging that you are seeing is the glue failing. You need to VERY carefully pry the glass off the OUTSIDE or the opera window. Clean the glue off BOTH pieces of glass and then find an adhesive that will be clear and glue it back together.

Gear Shift indicator is run by a small cable that connects to the gear shift lever. Either it came off or the cabel snapped. If that is the case it's easier to replace than to try a repair. I have one for it complete, with indicator. Iti's held in by 4 screws, will run you 30 buck plus shipping.

The CV joint is similar to a lebaron, so that's not a problem to get parts for.

Temp gauge, this is normal, mine does the same thing, untill it gets quite warm out, and this is with a radiator that is missing most of the core material.

As far as the light/release for your trunk. Mine don't work either and I never did find out why. So I will leave that for someone else to address.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The CV joints are the same as LeBaron but the ABS ring is slightly smaller than the LeBaron. If you use a LeBaron halfshaft you will destroy the ABS sensor attached to the wheel($140 dealer cost last time I checked). Yours can be rebuilt with the same parts as the LeBaron if I remember correctly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...