1984 Buick Regal Engine Diagram 231CI 3.8L V6

[Matt88RegalCustom]

16 hours ago, pfloro said:

Not knowing your specific model, I'll do my best here.  Based upon what side of the engine the starter is located, (driver's side for this model...???), the connections will be grouped on that side. The largest diameter (positive/red) cable from the battery connects to the large starter stud (it has a big eyelet).  There will be a couple of somewhat smaller "cables" also with eyelets ganged on that same starter stud.  There are called "fusible links".  The calibrated size wire (fuse wire) inside the plastic jacket is designed to melt in case of over-current. These fusible links and the big red battery cable may be wrapped together.  At least one of these "smaller" wires will find it's way to the alternator o/p stud.  Another will route into the "bulkhead" connector on the firewall near the booster/master cylinder.  FYI:  The bulkhead connector (1 or 2) is the way engine room wiring is passed into the passenger compartment (behind the dash). Back to the starter wiring: there will be a small wire (pink or purple ??) which connects to the small stud on the starter. This connects the starter soleniod to the "start" position on the ignition switch.  When you turn the key to start, 12 volts energizes the starter soleniod. Internally, the soleniod moves the starter drive into the ring gear and at the same time, connects the battery cable to the high current starter windings.  

 

IMO, what I've detailed above is pretty universal for all GM cars of this period. 

 

The Electrical Service Manual will show this in great detail.

 

Paul

Yeah I have one for my other old car helped out a lot im just trying to see if I can have help without that at this current moment

[pfloro]

Without standing over your engine bay, it's quite difficult to decipher all of these wires and connectors.  Most of the ones in question appear to be non-CCC. 

 

1) The copper braided "strap" is the engine to body ground. This one is important because it provides the "return electrical path" from the body to the battery.  The negative cable from the battery connects directly to the engine block. Then the block electrically connects to the body via this braded strap.

 

2) In your last picture, the red wires you are holding are the fusible links. Notice the thick rubber sleeves near the eyelets and also a bit further away. Those 2 wires enter the plastic "split loom".

 

There is really not much more I can do to help at this point. That poor engine room has been banged up and it does look quite scary.  I still think that looking at a comparable bone yard car (with somewhat intact wiring) would help. I don't think a manual of any sort exists to show the wire routing and connections.  The shop manuals have schematics which are invaluable.  If you are willing to trace out each of these wires (gotta get inside the split looms), you can put it back together. 

 

Keep at it,

 

Paul

Edited May 21 by pfloro (see edit history)

[Matt88RegalCustom]

2 hours ago, pfloro said:

Without standing over your engine bay, it's quite difficult to decipher all of these wires and connectors.  Most of the ones in question appear to be non-CCC. 

 

1) The copper braided "strap" is the engine to body ground. This one is important because it provides the "return electrical path" from the body to the battery.  The negative cable from the battery connects directly to the engine block. Then the block electrically connects to the body via this braded strap.

 

2) In your last picture, the red wires you are holding are the fusible links. Notice the thick rubber sleeves near the eyelets and also a bit further away. Those 2 wires enter the plastic "split loom".

 

There is really not much more I can do to help at this point. That poor engine room has been banged up and it does look quite scary.  I still think that looking at a comparable bone yard car (with somewhat intact wiring) would help. I don't think a manual of any sort exists to show the wire routing and connections.  The shop manuals have schematics which are invaluable.  If you are willing to trace out each of these wires (gotta get inside the split looms), you can put it back together. 

 

Keep at it,

 

Paul

So should I get those 1984 Buick chassis and electrical manuals? Is that what would help me best?

[Matt88RegalCustom]

3 hours ago, pfloro said:

Without standing over your engine bay, it's quite difficult to decipher all of these wires and connectors.  Most of the ones in question appear to be non-CCC. 

 

1) The copper braided "strap" is the engine to body ground. This one is important because it provides the "return electrical path" from the body to the battery.  The negative cable from the battery connects directly to the engine block. Then the block electrically connects to the body via this braded strap.

 

2) In your last picture, the red wires you are holding are the fusible links. Notice the thick rubber sleeves near the eyelets and also a bit further away. Those 2 wires enter the plastic "split loom".

 

There is really not much more I can do to help at this point. That poor engine room has been banged up and it does look quite scary.  I still think that looking at a comparable bone yard car (with somewhat intact wiring) would help. I don't think a manual of any sort exists to show the wire routing and connections.  The shop manuals have schematics which are invaluable.  If you are willing to trace out each of these wires (gotta get inside the split looms), you can put it back together. 

 

Keep at it,

 

Paul

So I just tuck it back in the split loom with out it being hooked up?

Edited May 21 by Matt88RegalCustom (see edit history)

[pfloro]

 

 

 

53 minutes ago, Matt88RegalCustom said:

So should I get those 1984 Buick chassis and electrical manuals? Is that what would help me best?

If you are committed to getting this car back on the road as a safe and reliable piece of transportation, the answer is YES...!  From studying these manuals, you will learn a million things about this era of automobiles.  When my mom bought her 1982 Cutlass Supreme, she bought the shop manuals for me.  Even thought I didn't order my 1984 Toronado for 2 more years, I spent many hours reading the 1982 manuals.  They were invaluable in my understanding of the Computer Command Control system and SO much else. 

 

Paul

[pfloro]

2 hours ago, Matt88RegalCustom said:

So I just tuck it back in the split loom with out it being hooked up?

I'm not sure what you mean?   When I said "get inside the loom", I meant separating the loom at the split so you could trace the wires.  Knowing where the other end connects will aid in properly reconnecting the now "loose end".

 

Paul

 

 

Paul

[Matt88RegalCustom]

1 hour ago, pfloro said:

I'm not sure what you mean?   When I said "get inside the loom", I meant separating the loom at the split so you could trace the wires.  Knowing where the other end connects will aid in properly reconnecting the now "loose end".

 

Paul

 

 

Paul

Oh I thought you meant like tuck them inside the loom it had me very confused my bad