Startix issue.........

[Batwing-8]

Members: If your car is Startix equipped, you’re probably aware of the round backfire circuit breaker mounted on the intake manifold (pg. 34, 1936 shop manual). This device prevents the Startix from attempting to start the car should the motor ever turn-over in a backwards rotation.

So, how do we know if this device is operating correctly? Pondering this question, I decided to remove the unit from the manifold and while connected to a battery and test light, see if injecting compressed air (a backfire) into the inlet would result in the circuit being interrupted.

An eventual 60 lbs. of pressure didn’t turn the light out, neither did pushing a small screwdriver into the inlet hole; suggesting either the pressure wasn’t high enough, OR that the unit was "stuck." I then removed the metal cover to access the innards, and tried lifting the circuit-breaking piston that normally would be pushed up by the backfire, by hand. Couldn’t get anything to move; piston appears frozen in-place, or else requires a lot more pressure than I'm applying.

So, I’m wondering if anyone has attempted to test one of these (ALL parts on old cars should be considered suspect, until proven they work) by moving the piston from either outside or inside the unit. In short, how much force is required to raise the piston, and open the circuit (deactivate the Startix), on a properly-working unit? Bill.

[Guest 32mod55]

Earlier Studebakers (like my 1932) didn't have the anti-backfire switch. Mine works fine, but I decided I didn't like taking chances and modified things a little. Since my car didn't have the original ignition switch/coil anyway, I replaced the aftermarket 1 position switch with a 2 position switch and wired in a hidden starter button which energizes the Startix when the switch is in the left (accessory) position, thus making it impossible for the Startix to energize except when the button is pushed. Turning the key switch to the right allows the startix to operate normally, but I always avoided using that mode. I have since located an original switch/coil setup, but I don't think I'll install it, what I have works and it looks very close to original.

[Guest stude8]

Attached are scans from an early Skinned Knuckles publication about Startix systems. Posting here just in case it contains something that will help answer any questions that come up.

Stude8

[Guest 37Dictator]

I recently installed the Startix Option on my 1937 Dictator. By 1937 these were a dealer only installation. I followed the 1936 Startix installation and installed the Backfire Breaker Switch. I removed the cover and disassembled the switch so all parts could be reconditioned .... I filed the contact points and checked the spring arm and seat to make sure it worked freely . My switch while in good condition had some carbon in it. There is a reasonably strong spring force [to ensure the ignition contact doesnt open due to vibration while driving] but you should be able to open the spring arm/ball seat by lifting

it with a small screw driver or knife. Soak the seat with some WD40 and try it again. Let me know how you make out. I really believe by 1936-37 these were not necessary as there other makes did not use this type of safety switch.

[Batwing-8]

First, thanks to those who responded earlier!

After some additional thought and effort, I decided the "innards" of my unit must be frozen. So, I opted to open it for inspection. After removing the metal cover and the electrical contacts, a light "tap" from a small hammer and drift punch into the threaded opening at the bottom, popped-off the washer-like "cap" and ejected a somewhat gunked-up aluminum piston.

This piston is slightly tapered and rides in a similarly tapered cylinder. Gravity holds the piston in the "down" position and the tapers assure a leak-tight seal (a leak here becomes an intake manifold leak). Upon a backfire, the piston is momentarily pushed upwards against the contact points, breaking the electrical circuit activating the Startix. At least that happens if the piston isn’t stuck.

I cleaned the piston and cylinder wall and applied a light coat of grease to reduce corrosion and prevent sticking. In order to remove the piston, the electrical contacts must be removed. This requires removing two small rivets on one of the points arms, which were then replaced with two #1-72 machine screws. After assembly, I lightly peined-over the top of the cylinder to keep the washer "cap" from coming-off when the piston is pushed up. Replace the metal cover by bending the four tabs.

After re-assembly, the piston now lifts freely, using very light pressure.