Guest mtworkshop Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 My #2 TC quit starting right after I moved it in the driveway. I started the car, moved it ten feet and shut down the engine. It hasn't started since. I have replaced the Hall effect plate, checked for spark, made sure the auto shut down relay works by swapping it with a known good one, checked for fuel pressure, and torn my garments. If there is a diagnostic tester available for sale or use I would appreciate having the use of it. I will gladly pay postage and a reasonable cost.Thanks,Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest My TC Toy Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Why don't you try a key diagnistic? It may be of assistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mtworkshop Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Been there, done that, no joy.Thanx,Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwinCamFan Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 MT, your description of the problem is somewhat lacking, what happens? Do you have spark? What was the fuel pressure? Can't do much more than read along and nod my head unless you let us in on what you've found;)Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mtworkshop Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 I have spark, Fuel pressure is 55 psi, Z1 has battery voltage, the engine turns over normally except it has a tendency to keep rolling on the starter motor after I turn the key from the start position. I take it that no one has a diagnostic tester as called for in the manual. I shall keep searching for the culprit. It is probably a bad ground somewhere, so the next step is to take out interference and fix grounds. I hate to do that because moving old wiring around just creates more problems.Thanks,Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LouZ Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Hi Mike, I'm with you. I don't like messing with old wiring. Put together some jumpers. Jump the Ign. direct. Run a long lead back to the fuel pump. These are just an example. Make up a jumper with a fuse in it if you want. Just jump everything direct, 1 at a time.. Good Luck, Lou Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwinCamFan Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 I would suggest a jumper wire to the + side of the coil, but if you have fuel pressure, its moot. If you have sufficient Spark/fuel/compression the motor will run, so whats missing/ Is your cam turning normally when you turn over the motor? I've seen a few teeth strip and it can still turn but be nowhere near where it should be to fire(compression low or non existant) I am still suspicious of the hall effect, the ignition coil, and the fuel pump by the way it just died after running normally when you parked it...Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mtworkshop Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 The connector on the end of the engine wire harness to the injector harness is suspect. put a new injector harness on the car when I got it but the female six wire connector wasn't changed at the time. I'll start with that as soon as I can find a female six wire connector half. By the way - I did put in a new hull effect plate and a new rotor. The fuel pressure gage says the pump works. Right now I'm inclined to think the injectors are not getting power.Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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