32 Series 57S hood Hinge Strip Wanted

[Guest Jim Jordan]

Looking for a hood hinge strip fo my 57S series 32 Buick.

651-436-6374 jamesjoanjordan@msn.com

thank you, Jim Jordan

[Bob Engle]

32 Buick registry has repro's for all 32 series.

Bob

[jscheib]

I think Mac Blair is all out of the smaller series. I wonder if the 1933 Buick Registry is geeting some of them reproduced.

John

[Guest Jim Jordan]

32 Buick registry has repro's for all 32 series.

Bob

thanks Bob I found one through Buick registry with your lead

[Guest Jim Jordan]

I think Mac Blair is all out of the smaller series. I wonder if the 1933 Buick Registry is geeting some of them reproduced.

John

thanks John, the Buick registry has the one that I need, thanks again

[jscheib]

Jim,

We would love to hear more about your car, especially as I have the same model. I have some spare parts and would have offered up my old hood hinge but it is the original and would need a lot of work and replating, so if you found the reproduction, that is good.

Are you restoring this to original?

Anything you want to share or question, feel free to write me off the forum, as well, at j.scheib@comcast.net. I am in CT. Where are you located?

John

[Guest Jim Jordan]

Jim,

We would love to hear more about your car, especially as I have the same model. I have some spare parts and would have offered up my old hood hinge but it is the original and would need a lot of work and replating, so if you found the reproduction, that is good.

Are you restoring this to original?

Anything you want to share or question, feel free to write me off the forum, as well, at j.scheib@comcast.net. I am in CT. Where are you located?

John

Hi John,

I purchased the Buick already restored. The car is really beautiful. Very dark blue with red pinstrip and black fenders. The interior is in very good original condition. The car has been stored for a while and I need to work on a few things to get it roadworthy. Previous owner said it heated up after driven awhile. I noticed the shutters are closed and I can't release them even after removing the linkage so I have started removing the shell and radiator to get access to mechanism. Maybe there is an easier way?

The brakes needed adjusting so I adjusted each wheel per the manual but can't figure out how to get a solid pedal. I get a firm pedal about 2" above the floor. Linkage seems tight?

I located a original hood strip, rechromed and new hold downs. Buick registry says it is in excellant condition. I have not seen it yet. The hood hold downs are broken, thus the cowl end of the strip was broken off and missing about 2".

I am from Afton, Mn 20 miles east of St. Paul. Also have a restored 37 with sidemounts. I am a Ford guy so any advise on the 32 is appreciated.

John, thanks for the interest.

Jim

[Bob Engle]

I have a 32 model 58 and can share some thoughts on the cooling and brakes. First, I would just block the shutters open and then see if this helps the cooling, I suspect it won't. You can put a piece of wood in the lever right at the thermostat to block it open. There is considerable mechanical advantage in the linkage, so it take quite a bit of force at the thermostat to open the shutters.

If you remove the lower radaitor hose and block the opening, fill the radiator with water and then time how quickly the water flows out of the radiator once you unblock the bottom. If it takes more than 3 seconds, your radiator is plugged. I had this problem with my radiator. A flushing at the local radiator shop did nothing to help the problem. I took the radiator and removed the thermostat and went into the top of the core and with dental picks, I removed small pieces of scale from as many areas as I could reach. Then I plugged the radiator thermostat opening, set the radiator upside down on a plastic 5 gallon bucket and rigged a hot tube pump, (high volume low pressure) to flow into the bottom radiator hose connector. I circulated hot water and radiator flush through the radiator of 8 hours and at the end of this flush, I had great flow. 1.5 seconds to drain the radiator. These old honeycomb cores are difficult to repair or replace and are extremely expensive. The second area of heat problems that I found on the four 32 engines that I have is a large build up of sludge, rust and scale in the water jacket around the cylinder walls.The back passenger side corner is the worst problem. The water jacket is only about 3 " deep and I have found 2 1/2" of sludge in the corners. The water jacket is difficult to clean. The only access is by removeing the water jacket cover. This only gives access to the one side of the water jacket as the cylinders are close or in contact with adjoining cylinders. I used wires and pieces of banding iron to snake around the cylinders to break up the sludge. An air hose is needed to blow out the crud. This is a slow dirty job, but once done, the engines run much cooler. I personally recommend runing a corrosion inhibitor in these open unpressurized cooling systems.

With respect to the brakes, check that the front brake cable are free. Also on the rear brakes, I have seen where the pivot linkage mounted on the differential housing have frozen up and prevent good operation of the rear brakes. Mechanical brakes will never have the firm feel of hydraulic brakes, but they can effectively stop the cars if set up properly. I am a believer in using the original style woven linings rather thean the composit materials. The woven wears faster and needs adjusting more frequently, but gives better braking force with less pedal pressure than the composit linings.

I hope this helps

Bob

[jscheib]

Jim,

Some good advice from Bob. Hopefully, we can convince you to join the BCA, if you have not already joined, to share in the wonderful world of Buick. The BCA National Meet will be not too far from you, Ames, Iowa in 2010. We sure would love to see your Buick there. The BCA has a Pre-War Division that we encourage you to join, as well.

John

[Guest Jim Jordan]

I have a 32 model 58 and can share some thoughts on the cooling and brakes. First, I would just block the shutters open and then see if this helps the cooling, I suspect it won't. You can put a piece of wood in the lever right at the thermostat to block it open. There is considerable mechanical advantage in the linkage, so it take quite a bit of force at the thermostat to open the shutters.

If you remove the lower radaitor hose and block the opening, fill the radiator with water and then time how quickly the water flows out of the radiator once you unblock the bottom. If it takes more than 3 seconds, your radiator is plugged. I had this problem with my radiator. A flushing at the local radiator shop did nothing to help the problem. I took the radiator and removed the thermostat and went into the top of the core and with dental picks, I removed small pieces of scale from as many areas as I could reach. Then I plugged the radiator thermostat opening, set the radiator upside down on a plastic 5 gallon bucket and rigged a hot tube pump, (high volume low pressure) to flow into the bottom radiator hose connector. I circulated hot water and radiator flush through the radiator of 8 hours and at the end of this flush, I had great flow. 1.5 seconds to drain the radiator. These old honeycomb cores are difficult to repair or replace and are extremely expensive. The second area of heat problems that I found on the four 32 engines that I have is a large build up of sludge, rust and scale in the water jacket around the cylinder walls.The back passenger side corner is the worst problem. The water jacket is only about 3 " deep and I have found 2 1/2" of sludge in the corners. The water jacket is difficult to clean. The only access is by removeing the water jacket cover. This only gives access to the one side of the water jacket as the cylinders are close or in contact with adjoining cylinders. I used wires and pieces of banding iron to snake around the cylinders to break up the sludge. An air hose is needed to blow out the crud. This is a slow dirty job, but once done, the engines run much cooler. I personally recommend runing a corrosion inhibitor in these open unpressurized cooling systems.

With respect to the brakes, check that the front brake cable are free. Also on the rear brakes, I have seen where the pivot linkage mounted on the differential housing have frozen up and prevent good operation of the rear brakes. Mechanical brakes will never have the firm feel of hydraulic brakes, but they can effectively stop the cars if set up properly. I am a believer in using the original style woven linings rather thean the composit materials. The woven wears faster and needs adjusting more frequently, but gives better braking force with less pedal pressure than the composit linings.

I hope this helps

Bob

Bob,

Thanks for your advise on the radiator and brakes. If it still heats up after I get the louvers freed up I am going to work on the cooling system as you described.

thanks for the support.

Jim

[Bob Engle]

The thermostat in the top of the radiator is set up to open the shutters at 145 Degrees F. The thermostat will generate about 14 pounds of force and will move about 1/4 " to fully open the shutters. If I can be of any further assistance, feel free to contact me at

bengle58@gmail.com

Bob

[Guest Jim Jordan]

The thermostat in the top of the radiator is set up to open the shutters at 145 Degrees F. The thermostat will generate about 14 pounds of force and will move about 1/4 " to fully open the shutters. If I can be of any further assistance, feel free to contact me at

bengle58@gmail.com

Bob

Bravo!......... my friend WD and I got everything working, the linkage and the shutters are working very well now. Just soaking down the top and bottom shutter pivots and the bar mechanism through the radiator hole got everything moving again. (of course a lot of jiggel back and forth helped too)

I think from sitting awhile and not being used this stuff just gets locked up.

Thank you and John for the advice on this effort.

Now on to the brakes

thanks again,

Jim