eric_b_1937 Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 I got my Inserted rods from Kanter. I shipped the Babbit rods to them and they returned some machined inserted rods. I did not get my original set back but the new set worked. In the future If I need to replace the bearings. I should be able to order the inserts from an engine supply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Engine rebuild shops' resources are unbelievable. They usually chose parts by their measurements, and order them that way. This is due to the fact that many original manufacturers have been out of business for scores of years, and the same part(s) may be interchangable from one brand to another. It helps to have an old piston, valve, bearing, etc., but they don't really need one as long as they can measure your rods, crank, bore, etc. That's another reason why it is smart to machine your rods to accept insert bearings, they're available everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briankearney Posted November 1, 2008 Author Share Posted November 1, 2008 Well everyone I pulled the engine yesterday and am I glad I did. Trying to do any sort of rebuild lying on my back would be next to impossible. Will wait now till I get the engine to the shop to order parts and or see what exactly I need as far as bearings for the rods are concerned and how much actual wear there is. There were also lots of things as far as breaking the engine down to just the block that would have been difficult in place to get to so this was the right decision. Thanks for all your help in this project. Will keep all informed as to how this progresses.thanks Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 Take lots of digital pictures... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briankearney Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 OK, no body mentioned that the rear end might float forward in the car when the trans is out of the car. I was trying to push the car back into the garage and much to my surprise the rear wheels are up against the front of the rear fenders. Whas' up? I had to put it up on a jack and roll it in that way. Am I in trouble or will I be able to reposition it later on. helllllllllllp.Brian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grant Magrath Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Interesting to hear in that Bob"s is nicer to deal with than Cars Inc. I couldn't agree more! I bought some rear bumper grommets for our '38 Special from Cars Inc. When they arrived, it was clear that there was a left and a right, and that they sent two for the same side. I called them (from New Zealand!)and they said just send them back and they'd sort it out. Yeah right!! They said there was nothing wrong with the grommets and charged me a re-stocking fee! Great!On the other hand, I recently mistakenly ordered some convertible vent window rubbers from Bob's for our '39 Special coupe. I asked if we could send them back and get the correct ones, and they did it, no problem at all, even though it was my fault!I'll never use Cars Inc again, but Bob's Automobilia have a customer for life.CheersGrant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ewing Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 It will push back in to position easily when you push the drive shaft back 'down' and push it pack with the motor transmission.The rear axle with coil springs will rotate, or move, with flexing of the rear springs, when there the rigid connection at the transmission is removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briankearney Posted November 3, 2008 Author Share Posted November 3, 2008 thanks ewing, that eases my mind a lot. I thought that might be the case but didn't know for sure.Brian K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briankearney Posted November 3, 2008 Author Share Posted November 3, 2008 Hi Dave, maybe something else you can help me with or maybe someone else will pick up on it. Here are all the #S from my builders plate and also the engine #. Any info you can give me from them will be appreciated.Buick Motor Div.Flint MI.1938 MOD 41Body # 21 524Style # 38 4199Paint # 519Trim # 401engine # is 43489353 thanks Brian K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest simplyconnected Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Stoneberg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Buy a shop manual and it will tell you eveything you need to know. No sense guessing. Cars or Bobs Automobilia http://www.bobsautomobilia.com should have a reprint.</div></div> Brian, everything you need is in this shop manual, including tolerances and capacities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briankearney Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 I want to thank all who answered me here on this forum. All your info helped me make the right decision about the engine in my '38. Mike at CAMS in New Bern, NC has the engine apart and has told me it's in great shape. We will bore it to 20 over since the cylinder wear is just under .0008. I think I have that right 8 thousandths. The rod journals and main journals are all in good shape and after all is renewed I'm sure it will be a strong runner. thanks againBrian Kearney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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