Removing trunk latch 37 studebaker w/o key

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I do not have any keys for the car. I can see (with a mirror) that there is what appears to be a rectangular pin protruding from the lock cylinder which will not allow the handle to be pulled out.

I don't know if having the key would solve the problem with the pin.

I'm sure someone else has solved this mystery - so I hope you can help me out.

[Guest stude8]

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Attached is a photo of a 1931 deck handle I restored that shows the method the lock cylinder is retained by in the handle body. Without a photo of yours it is hard to say if these two choices are applicable to the 1937 handle.

The handle piece has a .065 round pin pressed through the threaded shank area that holds the lock cylinder via a groove that can be seen in the brass tip that activates the cam which engages a slot in the deck sheet metal and prevents the handle from rotating when locked.

The two piece lock at right of photo shows the other style of lock that uses a small expansion spring on the tumbler assembly that expands into an under cut on inside diameter of the handle body. To remove this you must drill a small hole .050 or .062 to insert a rod like a welding tip cleaner to compress the expansion spring so the cylinder can be removed.

Stude8

[Guest stude8]

I found the attached image of a complete deck handle exploded piece by piece in case it is of value in determining how your lock comes apart. You can see the expansion spring release hole drilled in the handle body.

Stude8

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My handle is just like the first one shown. The exploded view shows the irregularly (I called it rectangular) shaped piece which retains the whole assembly clearly. There is a small hole in the chrome portion of the handle which I also see in your example.

I poked a stiff wire into the hole but it did nothing.

[Guest stude8]

Hi again,

I didn't specify previously but the release access hole should be drilled precisely at 21/32" in from the lock cylinder face surface. If your hole is not at that location you won't be able to depress the expansion spring that is seen on the lock cylinder in the photo. It only depresses about 1/16" or 3/32" then while holding it depressed you must with draw the lock cylinder to remove it.

Use a tool like a crotcheting needle with a hook or a tool room scriber with a right angle "needle" tip to snag a pulling surface inside the lock cylinder.

If the cylinder is hopelessly stuck then you might have to resort to soaking it with liquid wrench penetrating oil until it can be slightly rotated back and forth (less than 5 degrees) with a flat blade screw driver or even a Yale Jr Y11 key blank (doesn't have to have the cuts for your cylinder yet, just use as rotation tool).

The big problem with these early locks is often (75% of them) the cylinder casting will swell in diameter due to molecular self destruction of the Zinc alloy they used at that time.

If the cylinder is not free in the handle to rotate (<span style="color: #000099"><span style="font-weight: bold">MOVEABLE SLIGHTLY EVEN THOUGH YOU DON'T HAVE THE CORRECT KEY CODE TO UNLOCK IT</span></span>) then you will have to employ some last resort measures to free it up or simply destroy it and remove the metal particles to rotate the "Cam" that engages the door panel to remove the handle.

Many times I have been able to free a stuck cylinder with the soaking of penetrating oil over a period of a week and careful application of heat from a propane torch to expand the handle casting to get the cylinder to loosen up.

There is also the complication that there were two styles of locks used by Studebaker and it could be the handle you have is not the one that has the expansion spring retention method. I say this because since your lock has the access hole drilled and it doesn't seem to function as a release then it could be the type that is retained be a "Shear pin" pressed through the handle shank tangent to the rotating brass activator that moves the lock "cam". This will be located in the threaded area of the shank where the mounting excutcheon parts are held by the 5/8" spanner nut.

When you get the cylinder tumbler assembly removed and it survives without damage (the Zinc diecast is extremely fragile to cracking from stress)you can then hand file the notches in a key blank to get all the tumblers level with the cylinder rotating surface and salvage the lock. If you fail to recover this cylinder successfully you can retrieve one from another organ donor handle assembly.

Good luck,

Stude8

[Guest stude8]

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I guess I have one more question about your lock problem. I assumed the handle assembly is still in the trunk lid, correct?

Is it in the "locked" condition? That is it will not rotate and allow the trunk lid to open?

If it will rotate and the trunk lid can be opened then it will be removable from the lid just by removing the two escucheon screws and pulling it out, the cam only holds it in the lid when in the locked position.

If it is locked then your only option is to remove the tumbler cylinder as described in previous posts in order to rotate the internal cam into the unlocked position.

Stude8

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Yes the handle is in the trunk lid and locked. The trunk lid is not on the car.

I am able to move the lock cylinder back and forth slightly so the only thing missing is a key.

Thank you for your help. I haven't had time to give it another look since I last replied and probably won't have time for a couple more days.

Steve

[Guest stude8]

Steve

That is good news that the cylinder is not siezed in position.

Email me at studeracer_37@yahoo.com and I can give advice on details about the lock that can help you. Stude8