Gary_N Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 Well, I really had enough with my old generator issues, and I did not want to go through the conversion issues of 12 Volts, so I opted for a 6 Volt Alternator. Of course, I have it installed and can't seem to get Yoda to turn over. Here's what I did and I hope someone can help:The generator had three wires running to the regulator; a ground wire attached to the top of the reg., a field wire and armature wire. I removed these with the generator and removed the reg. This left three wires to the Batt post on the reg (one being from the horn relay), and I believe one field and two armature wires.The mfgr told me to terminal block all of these wires together, which I did. And I also ran a 10g wire from the alternator stud to the terminal block. The alternator also has a wire that runs to the plus side of the coil. So, far I can't get the engine to crank. The mfgr told me to find the wire that runs from the carb switch to the regulator, which I did. I guess that was attached to the ARM side of the reg? He told me to ground that wire which I did. Again nothing.So, here I am wondering if anyone has done an alternator conversion an how you hooked things up. Help!Thanks!Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_JPIndusi Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 Leave the wires on the carburetor switch alone as originally connected. There is a light gauge wire from the GEN or Armature terminal of the voltage regulator that is 16 gauge, green crossing tracers. This is not the heavy wire that goes to the Armature of the old generator. Ground this wire.Tape over the field and GEN or Armature wires that were connnected to the regulator separately. Connect a wire from the alternator stud to the wire that went to the BAT terminal on the regulator.The engine should turn over with the ignition switch on and the accelerator depressed.Let me know how you make out. I know this circuit very well but I do not have a 1950 Shop manual, I am using a 53 Special manual wiring diagram that should be similar to your car wiring.You may want to install a push button starter switch mounted under the dash and wired in series with the carburetor switch to prevent the starter from actuating while the engine is already running. Buick used vacuum to the carburetor switch and a cicuit using the generator armature as a ground for the starter relay as a backup in case the carburetor switch malfunctioned. With an alternator you have to rely on the carburetor starter switch alone.Good luck and get back to me.Joe, BCA 33493 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_N Posted June 17, 2008 Author Share Posted June 17, 2008 Thanks a ton Joe. I'll let you know how this works. Been a little frustrating trying to figure this out since I'm an electrical idiot. I did pickup a universal starter button. Which side of the carb switch should I connect the starter button? For some reason, I'm thinking the right side is hot? I'm trying to attach the schematic for my '50. Let's see if this works.Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_JPIndusi Posted June 17, 2008 Share Posted June 17, 2008 I cannot read the attachment. The new starter button can be wired most inobtrusively by finding the wire from the carburetor switch that goes under the dash to the igntion switch. Break the circuit here and wire one side of the new switch to the wire coming from the carburetor and the other to the ignition switch where the carburetorr switch used to go. Now to start the car, depress the button on the new switch and then depress the accelerator. After the engine starts, release the button on the new switch..Good luck.Joe, BCA 33493 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_N Posted June 17, 2008 Author Share Posted June 17, 2008 Looks like I don't know how to insert an image file. It's basically this layout thought my car is a first series. 50 Wiring Diagram I'm sure I'll have more questions. Thanks again!Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_N Posted June 17, 2008 Author Share Posted June 17, 2008 Joe:On further thought, let me ask now. Since I’ve removed the field, ground, and ARM wires with the generator that were connected to the regulator, I’m left with the following: Three wires connected to the BATT terminal on the Regulator and one connected to the ARM terminal.If I’m reading you reply correctly, I need to: (1) ground the 16g ARM wire that remains,(2) connect a 10g wire from the Alternator stud to the three BATT wires that remain, and (3) reconnect the carb switch wires.Prior to a bush button install, this should allow me to start as normal, correct?Thanks!Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_N Posted June 18, 2008 Author Share Posted June 18, 2008 Joe:Connected things up as you suggested. Yoda turns over now but won't fire. Since he always fires up, I have to conclude that I'm not getting juice to the coil. Attached is a picture of the alternator. You can see that there is a plug (the mfgr calls this a DA plug). The plug connects to the alternator terminal stud with the yellow wire being connected over to the plus side of the coil. Somewhere in the scheme of things, the battery juice is not reaching the coil. Do you have any ideas? Thanks in advance for any help! Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_JPIndusi Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 I looked at the circuit diagram from Buicks.net and this is essentially the same as the 48 diagram. Ok, so now it cranks over so the starter circuit is functioning. I would remove the wire from the alternator to the plus side of the coil and try starting the engine. You may have to rev the motor to get the alternator to come up to voltage and begin charging. If it starts and runs now, call the manufactuirer to explain to him your progress thus far. The DA plug and the wire to the coil is supposed to allow the alternator to begin charging immmediately so there is no need to rev the engine. Have you checked with a voltmeter that there is +6 volts at the coil with the yellow wire off and then connnected?Joe, BCA 33493 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_JPIndusi Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 I have studied the wiring diagram further. You should only have two wires on the BAT terminal of the regulator; one 10 gauge Black with Red crossing tracers that goes under the dash to the ammeter and another, same gauge and markings, that goes to the center terminal of the horn relay. Small 16 gauge Green crossing tracers formerly on the GEN or ARM terminal of the regulator now grounded. There may be a ground wire at the regulator, 14 Gauge Black with White tracers no longer needed. Field wire should be 16 gauge natural color with black parallel tracers, not needed. There should be a 10 gauge wire from the alternator stud to the BAT terminal on the regulator.Finally, there is the wire to the plus side of the coil from the "DA" plug. Check the voltage at the coil with the points open and the wire from DA on and then off. You should get +6 volts in both cases.Joe, BCA 33493 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_N Posted June 19, 2008 Author Share Posted June 19, 2008 Thanks Joe. I'll be in the garage tonight with my meter. I'll let you know what I find.Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_N Posted June 19, 2008 Author Share Posted June 19, 2008 By the way, I switched over to a Pertronix ignition three years ago. So, no points to open or close. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_N Posted June 20, 2008 Author Share Posted June 20, 2008 Well, checked all the connections, found voltage across the coil, turned the key and he fired right up. Loose somewhere? Anyway, what a HUGE difference. My lights are actually as bright as my modern cars. He even seems to run better. Thanks again for your help!!Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_JPIndusi Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 Great! Sounds like a happy ending.As long as the carburetor starter switch stays in calibration you should be OK. When you get time consider mounting a spring loaded, normally off, pushbutton switch wired in series with carburetor switch. With this in place, you start the car by holding the button in and stepping on the accelerator. This will assure that you won't grind the starter gear into the flywheel ring gear while the engine is running.Good luck.Joe, BCA 33493 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_N Posted June 21, 2008 Author Share Posted June 21, 2008 Happy so far! Thanks again for your help.Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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