Freeze plug leaking

[cal55]

I sold my nephew my 90 Reatta a few months ago. I guess a freeze plug is leaking,I'm not sure which one,the car is about 80 miles from me. How difficult are these to change or could I use something like JB weld to repair? A shop quoted him like $600.00 labor,he's in high school so my sister asked me if I could fix it for him.

Thanks,

Joe

[Guest C.F.Massie]

I've changed many a freeze plug in my time and some vehicles it isn't a problem but the Reatta may be a little difficult, hence the high labor cost you were quoted. The reason is the backside freeze plugs are hard to get to without disconnecting the engine and tranny from the frame mounts and tilt the engine to get access to the plugs. As far as JB Weld goes it may work for a while but then if you don't clean the crub off from around the plug correctly JB Weld won't hold that long anyway. One suggestion may be to just add some stop leak to the coolant system, if the leak is not that bad, and then wait until you have a reason more serious to take into to a garage and they have to lift or tilt the engine/tranny. Then get the plugs changed out and I do mean all the freeze plugs, they are cheap and easy to change out so replace them all at one time.

[Guest DTerry]

Had mine replaced two years ago. Local mechanic did them for $140. He had to remove the starter, but not the engine mounts. It just looked like too tough a job for me to do crawling around under the car on my shoulder blades.

[cal55]

Thanks fellas,

I appreciate you quick replies and suggestions. I guess I'll have to look at the car and go from there. My sister has more faith in my mechanical abilities than I do,she thinks I can fix anything. She's my younger sister so maybe that's why.

Joe

[Guest mongeonman]

I had this problem this summer,tried BJ with no succes,stop leak did not work,took it to a shop and they could remove the plug but could not reinstall new one without lifting the motor so they installed some kind of a rubber plug that has a wing nut and a plate to tighten it.Does not leak anymore and it does not restic the coolant flow,it cost 100.00 for the job.

[cal55]

Thanks for the tip. I forgot about those, I recall using one of those plugs years ago and it did work. That might make things a lot easier.

Thanks,

Joe

[Machiner 55]

Cut and paste from an earlier post:

Naturally you should have a Manual for the Reatta. I've also found that a copy of the Haynes manual (Manual #19020) for model years 1985-2002 comes in handy.

If you want to keep your manual clean you can scan and print out the pertinent pages and pin them to your garage wall for easy access and, or, use magnets and stick them to the body of the car. I would certanly do this for the page containing the fastner torque settings. You do have a torque wrench don't you?

Unless you have another Reatta handy, I suggest taking photos of the engine and connections to aid in re-assembly. If you're like me, re-assembly shortly after teardown is easy because it's still fresh in your mind. But, after several days to a week or more and things get a little fuzzy. When starting the last engine pull that I did I thought I'd be done in three days max. It was a month and a half later before I turned the ignition key. Started out just wanting to change out the leaking freeze plug (only accessable by separating the engine from the Tx and lifting it up to get to it). Then found that the rear head gasket had been breached so, decided to replace that, then... anyway, you get the idea.

While on the subject of freeze plugs, you may want to replace them on the engine that you're dropping in. The steel ones in my 89 Rivi. started to leak after 17 years. I used the standard steel ones as replacements because I didn't think that the Rivi. would see another 17 years. But, if you plan on hanging on to the Reatta or just want to do the right thing, then I'd suggest the brass plugs. A little more expensive but not by much. Your call.

If your AC system has been converted to 134a already, just purge the system and disconnect the lines at the compressor. It's WAY easier than unbolting the compressor from the engine bracket. Then recharge the system when done.

Don't forget an ample supply of your favorite beverage and snacks, a stack of your favoite CD's and if it's a detached garage... a pot to p*ss in.

Attachments

410272-Freezeplugsandengineout.jpg (36 downloads)

[Machiner 55]

Cut and paste from an earlier post:

Naturally you should have a Manual for the Reatta. I've also found that a copy of the Haynes manual (Manual #19020) for model years 1985-2002 comes in handy.

If you want to keep your manual clean you can scan and print out the pertinent pages and pin them to your garage wall for easy access and, or, use magnets and stick them to the body of the car. I would certanly do this for the page containing the fastner torque settings. You do have a torque wrench don't you?

Unless you have another Reatta handy, I suggest taking photos of the engine and connections to aid in re-assembly. If you're like me, re-assembly shortly after teardown is easy because it's still fresh in your mind. But, after several days to a week or more and things get a little fuzzy. When starting the last engine pull that I did I thought I'd be done in three days max. It was a month and a half later before I turned the ignition key. Started out just wanting to change out the leaking freeze plug (only accessable by separating the engine from the Tx and lifting it up to get to it). Then found that the rear head gasket had been breached so, decided to replace that, then... anyway, you get the idea.

While on the subject of freeze plugs, you may want to replace them on the engine that you're dropping in. The steel ones in my 89 Rivi. started to leak after 17 years. I used the standard steel ones as replacements because I didn't think that the Rivi. would see another 17 years. But, if you plan on hanging on to the Reatta or just want to do the right thing, then I'd suggest the brass plugs. A little more expensive but not by much. Your call.

If your AC system has been converted to 134a already, just purge the system and disconnect the lines at the compressor. It's WAY easier than unbolting the compressor from the engine bracket. Then recharge the system when done.

Don't forget an ample supply of your favorite beverage and snacks, a stack of your favoite CD's and if it's a detached garage... a pot to p*ss in.

Attachments

410272-Freezeplugsandengineout.jpg (36 downloads)

[cal55]

Thanks for the reply. I looked at my nephews Reatta Sunday and he drove it about 80 miles to my house. The antifreeze was full and I didn't notice any leaking so I told him to leave it alone for now. He had a mechanic top it off and I assume do a pressure test and was told a freeze plug was leaking. I hope the mechanic was wrong,if it is leaking it must be very minor,the car was parked for a couple of hours and no sign of anti-freeze on the ground a little oil I noticed but that's another problem. The car looked great,so I was really glad to see he's taking good care of it. He's 17 years old and I sold him the car last winter, and he really likes it.

Joe