viper771

I have decided to sell my 1972 Buick Riviera boat tail. I am the 3rd owner and all the details are in the boat tail registry.Car is located in Middletown Ohio. Blue metallic paint with blue interior. According to the date plate its an early 72 Riv.. Has the split bench seat, column shift, AM/FM radio, Front bumper guards, power seats, and the rest of the standard stuff that came on the Riviera. This car originally came with the full sized hub caps (which you don't see often) and they are still on the car. It comes with a lot of new parts that I have not installed yet ( stainless brake lines/fuel lines), 6 rally rims, door hinge bushings/pins and a few other things I can't think of off the top of my head. The interior is near perfect! Car has 91K miles. AM/FM radio works great (installed new front speaker), clock works great (rebuilt it), AC does not work (still holds pressure) since it needs some R12. I installed a brand new Cloyes double roller timing chain and new gears, new oil pump gears, new TA performance timing cover, new plugs, wires, rotor, cap, water pump, PS lines (flushed the power steering fluid),new radiator hoses, all new fuel injector rubber hose, new thermostatic fan clutch, new fuel tank sending unit, New gear oil in rear end, new tranny oil/filter, new governor, modulator, air filter new and carb rebuilt. I put in the bigger Stage 2 fuel pump and new stainless line for that. Timing cover and water pump have new ARP bolts as well. I am sure I am forgetting a few things too. The flaws other than the AC needing a recharge are few. The car does run great and drive but will need tires soon (starting to dry rot). Also the brakes will need done at some point since they are kind of touchy (I just haven't gotten around to it and I only drove it locally). I think the lower rear quarters were patched at some time in the past due to rust and look great. The lower rear quarter under the body line there are some paint scratches (previous owner back over something). There is also a small dent on the side of the beak of the rear bumper, and the front right corner of front bumper was pushed up a bit (previous owner pulled too far into garage). It can just be pulled down again if you had a leverage bar. There is a small split in drivers side arm rest, and small snag in seat... carpet a bit dirty but that is really it. Interior is almost perfect!! Some small paint chips on car but nothing detracts from the car itself. Stress cracking starting at lower corners of rear window. I started to paint the rest of the engine (since I did the timing cover) but did not get to finish it yet. If you had any questions or want to see the car send me a PM and I can give you my contact info. Lower 48 States only. I am asking 11K obo. I have many pictures and can take pictures of anything requested. Thanks!

Ah ok thanks for that info! The flywheel one would work best I think... since I have everything pretty much taken off the front of the engine. and about setting the rotor to #1 with the cam gears at 6 and 12... that is why I wanted to ask first before trying to do that bec I figured that wasn't right lol. It didn't say that in the book either way, which is why I was unclear. But I think that stuff you guys mentioned has put me on the right track. I really miss driving my Riv

I hope to yank the cover off here soon. What is the best way to keep the engine from turning so I can remove the harmonic balancer bolt? I don't have any air tools.. just the old fashioned breaker bar + elbow grease+ brute strength lol

Thanks for the info! Installing the timing gear set wasn't the problem, I understood that. I just didn't know if you could drop the dist. back in with the rotor pointing to #1 when the dots were lined to 6 and 12 on the timing gear set or if I had to mess with it otherwise to get things to TDC etc. Any other motor I have messed with,, the distro was at the back and you didn't have to mess with it. I will have to see how my bolt removal goes for my broken bolts too. So far, I don't think I need a new cover but I will know more after I pull it off the engine I haven't done too much actual mechanical work like this before so I am learning as I go. I appreciate the help!

I guess thats true. I do know the older shop manual were more in depth, esp my 56 chevy ones and my 62 olds. I guess you were right though. By the 70s the shop manuals just seem to assume that you know what to do. They don't even go into what tools to use as much as the earlier ones. thanks for the help! By the way, do any of you know if the roller chain will have any clearance issues with the orig timing cover or oil pump? I know they sell a repop one where the oil pump stuff is moved a bit... but I didn't know if it made that much of a difference.

Thanks for the info! I can't really turn the engine over that way, but I can use a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt to turn it by hand. That is a good idea though! How come it just didn't tell me to do that in the shop manual lol

Hey guys I need some help! I have a 72 Buick Riviera with a 455. I never have done a lot of this stuff before so it is all new to me. I do have all of the shop manuals and what not.. so I follow them as best as I can. Anyway, my water pump went out and I decided to change out the timing set while I was at it. I only broke 3 lower bolts that attach to the water pump so that isn't too bad. My question is... the book says to just line up the dots on the timing gear (6 and 12 o clock).. no problem.. but then just says to re install distro. Should the rotor be pointing at #1? Some ppl have told me that I need to rotate the cam so the dots are 12 and 12... so the #1 is on the right stroke. I am just a bit unclear on it. I haven't taken the distro out yet or tried to removing timing cover until I know what I need to do beforehand. I bought a Cloyes timing set and I hope it fits ok. I also bought new oil pump gears since I might as well change those too. Any help or pointers would be great!!! Thanks!!!!

Yep already a full member to that site with picts and data to my 72 uploaded. Been to cold to work on her though. I will put rally wheels on eventually.

and yes this car was locally purchased here in Middletown ohio at Guyler Buick (the 2nd owner bought it and lived on the next street over from the orig owner). It is only about 6 blocks or so from where the 2nd owner lives

Thanks for the info guys!! Actually the orig owner was in the ROA. The car came with ALL of the info from when he first joined back in 86.. so I have tons of magazines to look though. I have to get the tranny to shift since it won't go into 2nd. I am putting in a new governor, modulator, filter, fluid, kick down switch and solenoid. It just needs some other minor stuff... valve cover gaskets, rear diff cover gasket. The clock and front radio speaker do not work... but the rear speaker works great (cool that it has an AM/FM radio too). The interior is SUPER clean. Only the arm rest part of the drivers side door panel has 2 splits in it. All the orig paperwork from the dealer was still in the orig envelope in the glovebox. The only area of rust concern is by the back window... its small spot that looks like it is a crack in the metal, i suspect from body flex (my 62 olds starfire has sometime similar) and there is a tiny bit of rust there. I suspect that this must be semi common, and the vinyl roofs didn't help. But other than that one spot, everything else is good to go. Going to put new door hinge bushings too since the heavy doors wore out the orig bushings. If I can figure out how to add more pictures I will. The car is crystal blue by the way and I am already looking for the rally wheels. 5 x5 bolt hole pattern, but I haven't decided if I want the 15 x6 or 15 x 7s yet. Will update more soon!

I dunno, I kind of like the rally wheels. I guess I have time to decide. Worst case, I will just keep the orig rims as spares. It is a clean car though and came with all the orig documentation and a box of stuff from when the orig. owner joined the riviera owners association in the 1980s. I am the third owner actually. When the first owner passed a few years ago, the 2nd owner just bought it and drove it to golf on the weekend. Even the orig owner just drove it once in awhile. There is NO RUST on this thing.. and this is a locally bought Ohio car. The interior is almost flawless

Hey everyone! I am usually an olds guy but I couldn't pass this car up. I have always been a fan of the boat tails. I hope to get more pictures of it and I will post soon. It is all original though and in great shape. I had a question about the rally wheels. It has the standard wheels now with caps, but I think I am looking for the 5x5 bolt pattern 15 x6 JJ code rims right? What kind of tires do you guys recommend? I am not sure if the tires I have on the car now will be able to be put on the rally wheels. They are in good shape though. I need to do some minor work to it (replace hoses, fluids, filters, etc) so she is ready by spring. I am not sure if the tranny is shifting right or not. The modulator O ring was leaking bad, but that was replaced.. but it doesn't seem to shift out of first. I added fluid but didn't change. I will check the vac hoses next to see if that is the problem. Then again, it may shift so smooth that I can't tell it is shifting? This car is nothing like my father in laws GTO.. it is a bit softer and fatter. Anyway I will get to taking more pictures, but enjoy the ones I have for now. It is a crystal blue metallic with blue full vinyl roof. Bench seat, AC, power seats, etc I don't think it has any special options other than the ugly front bumper guards. I will take better pictures soon.

Priced lowered to 6,500. Ad on hemmings (http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/oldsmobile/442/1666108.html) with more picts. Olds Nationals are 45 mins from me so come check out the car if interested since I am near by!

If anyone is interested please PM me with offers. Thanks!

Hey everyone! I parted out my 68 GTO a few years ago (sold the body/frame) and I just have a lot of old parts hanging out in the garage. I would like to sell everything as a package deal and just come and pick it all up. Located in Middletown, Ohio. I can take pictures of anything you want (just send me a PM of your requests). I am asking $2,300 for everything and well worth it. Here is the list of everything I have (that I can remember at the moment, there may be a bit more as I dig everything out) 1. 2 sets of front fenders (have the usual rust out toward the lower rear part, one set is from a lemans) good shape and have the stainless pieces on the back 2. 1 pair of front fender patch panels for the rusted out areas 3. Metal convertible top frame (good shape but needs header panel) 4. 69 endura bumper (has a small dent on one side but can be fixed) 5. 69 grill inserts (one has a few teeth missing but in good shape) 6. deck lid (some shipping damage to the side edges, metal rolled a bit an inch or so, but will tap out no problem) 7.auto console with dual gate shifter (blue color) 8. Sun visors in driver shape 9. Dash pad (has crack in middle from sun but in good shape otherwise) 10. Whole dash from gauges to glove box end piece.. No cracks or anything great shape 11. Gauges and heater control for dash (idiot lights, spedo, and in dash tach) heater box (inner and outer parts) 12.rear seat 13. Stainless for pinch well 14. Vent windows with soft ray glass in good shape and chrome frames 15. quarter windows with soft ray glass and Pass window soft ray glass (drivers side was broken). 16. Power window motors and regulators 17. Drivers and pass side doors with hinges (in decent shape but have some rust. New skins may be needed?) 18. A pillar stainless (found just drives side so far) 19. Wiring harness from engine bay-dash-console-trunk in good shape 20. Inner fenders in great shape 21. Radiator core support (has some rust out in lower mountings but rest in great shape) 22. Rocker stainless (2 main rocker pieces, but just one or the rear quarter pieces) 23. AM radio 24. Dash Ashtray 25. Bumper brackets (front) 26. Headlight surrounds and buckets 27. Lower valence panel i metal (a little squashed from pulling to close to a curb, but in great shape otherwise) 28. plastic pinch well rain gutter 29. power top motor and 2 pistons Any questions let me know. I have have forgotten a few things. I don't want to separate any of it or ship! Just come pick it all up and build yourself a GTO or Lemans. Thanks!!!

Asking $7,000 for my 68 olds 442. Here is my CL add to make it easier. Any questions or for any more pictures please PM me. Thank you!! http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/4561622813.html

I don't mind a project that I can drive around in. My other 2 I can't.. so the riv would be quite a switch. Good point about the rally space. How much is big bucks to fix a bumper? I haven't had to do any chroming stuff for quite a few years. I think that was prob the biggest "prob" on the car other than the paint scrape which can be fixed. Thanks for the info though! I have more picts but I have to resize them all

The boat tail was actually in very good shape! It actually has 90K miles but looks great. No rust anywhere except some minor minor crust behind the pass. rear tire between quarter and inner fender. but no rust though. Underside looks great and looks like a slighty used new car. There is a bit of a scrape on one side on the driver rear quarter and a small dent near the tip of the rear bumper and some scraping near where the car got too close to a wall at one point. The scrape is minor and the paint is just missing, but no dents or anything in the metal. Interior is perfect. I took a ton of picts... this may be my next car here in a week or so.. So if you get bumpers rechromed, can the dents be pounded out?? Also, I would love to find the rally wheels for one of these. Any leads would be helpful (and would the spare need to be a rally wheel as well?). Anyway enjoy the picts and pls any other advice would be helpful!

Thanks for the info! The deal about the car is I plan on swapping my 68 442 project for this car. I have WAY tooo many projects... and I am ready to get rid of one so I can finally have an old car to drive this summer. Then I can work on my 62 Starfire. I think we are talking around 7K-8k there abouts. I kind of wish it had buckets though, but I can look past that. The story is the ppl who have it now got it off the orig owner who died 2 yrs ago. It was his 2nd car, and always stored it inside. He would just drive it to go golfing and take it to car shows once in awhile. I will find some rally wheels for it if things go to plan. I want to ditch the big front bumper guards too.I have been searching but haven't found any yet. The small console for the bench seat would be cool but those are kind of rare in their own right I guess. Thanks for the info! I haven't seen many GS versions at all either so they much be a bit harder to find.

Hey everyone. I am going to check out this boat tail in a few days. The guy who has it is interested in my 68 442 project that I just don't have time to work on. The good side, I have always liked the boat tails and this car is rdy to go. The 2nd owner has had it for 2 yrs, car has under 50K miles, everything orig and have always been stored in doors. I only know about oldsmobiles and tri 5 chevys so any advice would be great. What do these cars usually sell for? I wish it had buckets and a console, but I am at the point now where I am tired of having projects and I want to drive one car, while working on the other (which is a 62 olds starfire). Anyway check out the pictures and let me know what you guys think. Thanks!!

Thanks for that info!!! I just ordered a Equus 5568 Pro-Timing Light so that should help me out quite a bit. I figured that the idle mixture screws were messed up. When I got the car, they were unscrewed almost all the way out!! I tried to get them as close to spec as I could at the time. The fuel pump was leaking and the carb was a bit leaky...so I was doing damage control for the time being. I still need to get a carb rebuild kit from NAPA since the rubber plunger is rotted and I think the top carb gasket is kind of weeping. The carb was rebuilt recently but I know the top plate wasn't screwed down very tight. I hope to just put in new gaskets (new to the whole carb rebuilding thing) and fix the rotted plunger. If I can't get the heat riser valve to move after a few days of soaking it with PB blaster, I will end up just taking everything apart, drilling out the valve, and hopefully put everything back together. I have new exhaust flange gaskets and what not so I am hoping that things do go well. I really appreciate the carb info! You can find all kinds of info about quadrajets, but not a whole lot about these earlier carbs. Once I attempt to get things fixed, I will update everyone on the progress.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!! I have the 3 hole version. If you notice the one picture of the valve full open, the weight on the side it actually touching the arm that the spring attaches to. My weight is more of less perpendicular to the valve body.. (see my image) So it isn't fully open, or fully closed.. which is adding to my overheating and I get a lot of exhaust out of the top end after the car reaches temp. I will have to soak the bolts in PB blaster so I can hopefully get it off without busting anything. I am taking a break from the car for a couple days since I just spent the last couple days under the dash replacing ALL of the vacuum lines to the heat and ventilation controls. I even rebuilt the master dash controls....yet my heater blower doesn't want to turn on without me pushing the diaphram in the engine compartment.. I think I put the heater control switch back together wrong (I didn't mark anything before taking the 2 halves apart) so back under the dash I have to go. What a pain in the butt!!! Thanks again for the pictures!! At least I am more sure that the heat riser is actually causing the vast majority of my overheating problem!

Alrighty! I found a good deal on a digital timing light that also does dwell too. After I get the necessary supplies I will do the cooling flush. I checked under the distro cap and everything looked good. Everything looked fairly new. Some people say to change the timing a bit bec of the gas we have today, but I will stick with everything stock and then we shall see what happens. Thanks for the heads up!

Alrighty I need to get some supplies together then. I will look up some dwell meters and timing lights. I could use them on my 442 as well. I will keep everyone updated! Would you say that 5 degrees BTDC is good, or is something else better due to the crappy gas? I only use premium and put some lead additive in there... but I am sure the gas still isn't as good as orig premium from the 60s.

You must have lived in Middletown when things were still semi good in the old part of town. Things are getting somewhat better in the old downtown area but it could go a lot faster. As for the heat riser that isn't a problem. The guy I bought the car from never drove it or had it running for very long. He just fixed it up after he decided he wasn't going to use it as a parts car for his 62 ragtop. I will spray some PB blaster on it and I hope it frees itself up. The exhaust system that is on there now has been on there for awhile.. I would say a good 10-15 years by looking at the stuff. If I do stick a hose in one of the heater hoses, will I have to do anything with the heat valve on top of the engine? I know vacuum opens it or closes it but I never encountered anything like it before. As long as water can force past it I guess. I am going to see if I can pick up a timing light and dwell meter so I can actually check the timimg for once on my old cars. Any suggestions as to what brand or anything?? Thanks for all the help so far. I really want to get my car on the road at least once before winter hits!! During the winter I can work on putting the headliner back in or messing with the suspension.