BuickCrazy
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Posts posted by BuickCrazy
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Hey guys - Just wanted to let you know I am reading your post, but have been preoccupied with a plumbing leak under my slab ans unable to work on the car. I am going to try all the suggestions. Thanks for all your help.
Randy
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Pete - Thanks for the responses. Actually there is no spark from the plug wire from the coil to the center of the distributor so it appears that the spark is not getting to the distributor much less the points. Sorry I did not make that more clear. After I posted I found my 1949 Buick shop manual and found a similar diagram showing the positive coil wire going to the ignition switch. It seems to me that the coil is not getting any voltage/current. Could the ignition switch be the problem?
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I cannot get my 49 Roadmaster to fire. I replaced the coil today, but still no spark. The neg wire from the coil goes to the distributor. The positive wire goes into a black and white braided wire loom on the firewall, but I can't figure out where the positive wire goes or what it connects to. Where does the coil get its juice to fire the distributor? I have not touched any of the wiring since the last time the car ran which was several months ago. Any ideas or suggestions?
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My 49 Roadmaster has always been difficult to start, but recently it will not start at all until I spray starting fluid directly into the carb. Once I spray it the engine fires right up and runs until I shut it off usually after I drive around the neighborhood. Could stale gas cause this symptom. I help would be appreciated.
Randy
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Thanks for your replies and suggestions. I took my battery to a local golf cart shop and had them load test it. Even though it was fully charged, when they put a load on it the volts dropped to 3.3. Put in a new Red Top Optima and it cranked right up. Thanks again.
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Thank you for your quick responses and suggestions. After cleaning all the contacts and grounds and still not having any luck, I took the battery to a local golf cart shop and had them load test the battery. Even though it would charge fully on my chargers, it went down to 3.3 volts under load. Picked up a new Red Top (which was what was in it) and it cranked right up. Thanks again for your help.
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have a 49 Roadmaster that I store in an enclosed car trailer with a Battery Tender charger. As a result it does not get started that frequently. It always used to crank and start, but recently when I go to start it it just clicks. If I put a standard 6V charger on it for an hour or so, it will usually start. However, recently (the last couple of days) nothing seems to work. When I push the gas pedal it just clicks even after I have put a full charge on the battery. This morning I put a screw driver on the solenoid terminals and instead of clicking, it spins or whirls, but there is no clicking. I am thinking the whirling sound is maybe the starter spinning and not engaging the flywheel. Any thoughts on what may be going on?
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I have a 49 Roadmaster that I store in an enclosed car trailer with a Battery Tender charger. As a result it does not get started that frequently. It always used to crank and start, but recently when I go to start it it just clicks. If I put a standard 6V charger on it for an hour or so, it will usually start. However, recently (the last couple of days) nothing seems to work. When I push the gas pedal it just clicks even after I have put a full charge on the battery. This morning I put a screw driver on the solenoid terminals and instead of clicking, it spins or whirls, but there is no clicking. I am thinking the whirling sound is maybe the starter spinning and not engaging the flywheel. Any thoughts on what may be going on?
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Mike
Thanks for the reply. Have had the car for about four years. No, I did not do the rebuild and I do not weld. I have attached some photos I snapped earlier and I think one problem is obvious, even to me. The seat rails are sitting on top of nuts that are 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. The question is why? At some point I am going to have to pull the bench seat out and try to figure out why the seat was mounted in a way other than the way it was supposed to be mounted.
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I have a 49 Roadmaster Sedanette. It seems to me when I am driving it I am sitting very high. I have to look down to get a good view through the windshield. The interior is stock. I am six foot tall so I don't think that should be an issue. From the floorboard to the top of the seat cushion is 14 inches. From the top of the seat cushion to the bottom of the steering wheel is 4 inches. Any thoughts or information regarding the correct seat height would be appreciated.
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Lamar - Congratulations on your new acquisition. She is absolutely gorgeous. You patience paid off. She is blue, but I am green with envy. I think the two of you deserve each other. Enjoy driving her while the rest of us eat our hearts out.
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ToddC
What kind od building is that you have your cars in?
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Mr. Earl
I did not see your post. I could use new or used - whatever I can find. As you know, when it comes to 55 year-old cars, beggars can't be choosers. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Thanks!
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Guys
Thanks for the reply. I think you are right. Nothing from a Chevy door is going to work in a Roadmaster. Guess I will have to wait until I can find a used one.
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Does anyone have any idea if the door channels for a 55 Chevy Bel-aire 2 door hardtop will interchange with a 55 Roadmaster Riviera? Danchuck Chevy has replacement parts that appear to be pretty darn close.
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Looking for the window channel that connects to the electric regulator and also the channel the glass fits into. I don't know if it makes a differencen but it for the driver's side. Car came without these parts. The glass was missing and so were these parts.
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John
Thanks for the reply. Removing thge stainless is not what I need to do. I need to add and replace the clips that hold the stainless trim on. It appears that they slide onto the metal lip that goes around the window opening. I don't see any other way to install them but to remove the rear window.
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I was afraid you were going to say that. Thanks for the quick response.
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This might sound like a dumb question, but how are these clips installed? Does the rear window and rubber need to be removed in order to install tge clips? if not, what is the trick to the installation?
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I recently purchased a 55 Roadmaster Riviera that is 90% reassembled after being taken apart to be painted. The tailight bezels and parking light bezels have been rechromed, but only the tailight bezels have been put back on the car. My question is whether or not there should be a gasket between the tailight bezel and the backup light bezel and whether or not there should be a gasket between the lenses and the bezel. If there should be where can the gaskets be purchased or will I have to make my own?
1949 Roadmaster - No Spark
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Just wanted to touch base with everyone that offered suggestions/help with my 49 Roadmaster with no spark. I finally have had some time to devote to getting the car running. I bought some emery cloth at my local parts store and and cleaned the surface of the points. When I turned on the ignition and pulled the points apart with a screwdriver I saw the spark I have not seen in months. I put the cap back on the distributor and the car fired up. After letting it warm up for a while I drove her around the block. It ran really smooth. I know I need to replace the points and condenser because my fix is only temporary, but now I know what my problem was.
As a side note when I bought my first car in 1966 and for a few cars after that all of which had points I regularly changed or cleaned and adjusted my points without an issue, but I has been about 40 years since I last had to do it. I had forgotten everything I knew about points. Today I regained some of that knowledge thanks to those that replied to my post. It is a good thing because I have a 70 and 72 Riviera with the 455 in them that I think have the same issue. The first thing I am going to do with them is clean the points to see if I can get them running again.
Thanks again.