shifty

well its rebuilt, the replacement gasket had the same vents, but about half the size, also a lot more crud came out then i thought, and i cant tell if the accelerator pump is kicking out a wee more or if its my imagination. but the bog is gone, i dont know if it was just one of those things or a little of each. my only mistake when rebuilding was i put the little float assist spring on the wrong side so it was holding it open, found that out by watching it flood all over the freshly cleaned body, oh well. so im off to find how to adjust the idle needles, but im happy, and would like to thank everyone for there input, now to fix the exhaust leak and the leaking tranny seal.

thanks guys, i did check the timing and dwell, it looked good. it could be the power piston, but right now its sitting in the basement waiting for the rebuild kit, so once thats in i will start checking all these little things while i rebuild it. and carbking i ordered the kit monday, i dont know if i talked to you or someone else but i read the # on the tag and you knew from that it was a rare carb off a 215 aluminum v8, if that rings a bell. and maybe i should have been clear when i was talking about the vacuum leak, it wasent a leak to other holes in the carb, it was passeges that let air from outside the carburetor in.

thanks all NTX, im not sure what your talking about when you say vertical transition slot, it has 4 small holes that are covered when the throttle blades are closed, and one by one they open as soon as its cracked. theres no slot. i can take a picture if youd like. i also tryed slowing the idle and raising it with the idle screw, it didnt seem to affect the bog. im really thinking the massive vacuum leak from using the wrong gasket is the problem, we had it rebuilt a few years ago, and then basically put it in storage untill i started working on it now, and my dad said after it was rebuilt it didnt run right but he assumed it just needed adjusted. the throttle shafts have a lil play, expected for having 90k miles, but not so much i think it would cause any problems. also, should i try and shoot a little wd40 to lube them? maybe some lithium greese? or just leave them dry? id like to keep the car as stock as reasonabily possible, and right now i dont wanna pay to have someone else refresh it.

you would be better off figuring out why it is running 220 with the 190 degree thermostat, ive read the radiators liked to clog up, due to coolant back in the day being incompatible with aluminum, you might want to check the radiator if you havent replaced it. the point is at 220 your 190 thermostat was probably fully open, and it still didnt bring the temps down, just as the 160 one would be, i would look elseware for your cooling problem.

hi all, quick background first, i am trying to get a 62 skylark in good running shape, it has a nasty bog when the pedal is pressed, the accelerator pump works fine and i have cleaned out all the orifices and holes in the carb without completely ripping it apart. i have decided it is probably a good idea to go ahead and rebuild the carburetor. Especially as i can see gas soaking through the gasket between the carburetor and the throttle blades. after some research i believe that it has a Rochester 4GC carburetor, does this sound right? the engine is an all aluminum 215, if that helps. i figured i would just order a carb rebuild kit from partsamerica.com (advance auto parts), does this sound like a good plan or should i get one from somewhere else? also will it include a manual, if not where can i find one (preferably free)? mechanical things are nothing new to me as I have just passed all the certifications to become a master ASE technician, however, carburetors are new, give me a fuel injected car and a scan tool and i can fix any problem you can imagine, put a carbureted car in front of me and im basically clueless. thank you in advance edit: after looking around for a bit im thinking i will order from the carburator shop, or carbking as he is registered here, i have a better feeling i will get the exact kit as he can match up the carburetor numbers. *update* i removed the carb and took off the lower throttle blade part, i believe the guy that rebuilt it last used the wrong gasket. this gasket has cutaways in areas that left a large leak between the 2 parts, i figured out this makes perfect sense for my problem; when the throttle blades are closed it runs off the idle holes controlled by the needles, and opens up to some other holes when it is cracked, but when it is cracked past that the mains are expected to start kicking out fuel, but since there was a big leak, there wasn?t enough of a vacuum drop across the main jets to get them going right away, therefore there was the bog between when i opened it past idle and when it finally got enough of a vacuum to get the mains going. heh, these carbs arnt too complicated i guess. oh, and sorry if i made up my own carburetor terms.