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Posts posted by frame30
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4 hours ago, 95Cardinal said:
Frame30 wrote: "Dear Joe: Putting my front seat in next week I hope. As you know, most of my photos blew up in the computer. Does the front seat just bolt down or (as I have been told) there are two little channels that hold the front down. Confused. Any pictures of what they (if needed) might look like? Great series. I use your site a lot for my restoration. 49D wagon. Cheers from Alberta. Michael."
Michael,
Yes, there are 2 u-shaped brackets that mount to the floor pan and retain the front of the seat adjuster. They are the 2 pieces with 2 bolt clearance holes in this image:
These brackets are approximately 1" wide, about 4" long and approx. 1" high.
Hope this helps!
Joe
Dear Joe: Thanks!! You wouldn't have to have two of these you would like to sell? Seems my seats were never properly seated. Cheers. Michael.
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Dear Joe: It would be three as I have the split rear seat same as you. Cheers. Michael.
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On 1/11/2019 at 8:37 PM, 95Cardinal said:
First step in assembling the front seat back was to clean, paint and inspect the seat frame and spring unit.
The transverse spring wire that supports the individual zig-zag springs (essentially the lumbar support) was fractured and had to be replaced.
This frame came from low-mileage car and was in excellent condition. The clean, shiny metal you see is as the frame appeared when the old trim cover was removed!
It has been coated with a clear protectant to preserve it.
Initial test fit of the trim cover and side panel to ensure that all the seams will be covered by the side panels as designed and sewn.
I installed the 2 screws that will ultimately attach the ash tray to the seat back.
Having the screw heads in place will make it much easier to locate the attaching points for the ash tray after the trim cover has been attached to the frame.
Visible at the top of the above image is the first point of attachment of the seat cover. There is a wire-reinforced upper bolster that is attached via hog rings to the upper frame rail.
The heavy felt isolator is installed between the two layers of springs in the seat back spring unit.
The trim cover is drawn over the perimeter of the frame and retained with hog rings.
After installing the cover and verifying the fit of the side panel, the upper bolster looks loose and baggy.
The area beneath the french seam required additional padding to fill out the cover contours.
I removed the cover and added thin layers of cotton/poly blend padding to better match the cover shape
After re-installing the cover, fabricated stuffing tools like these make it easier to manipulate the last bits of padding into the necessary position under the corner:
End view of the seat back after revising the corner padding.Front seat back, ready for assembly to the cushion:
The 1958 Buick foam seat cushions were among the earliest applications of molded urethane foam seating components.
The Special models retained the traditional spring and pad designs for the seat cushions and backs.
The Century, Super, Roadmaster and Limited models were equipped with foam seat cushions, but retained "spring and pad" seat back pads with rubberized horsehair pads.
I disassembled the seat frame and cleaned and painted the steel structure. Since the cushion frame had some surface corrosion, I used a more aggressive treatment and then painted the frame black.
I inserted a stiff reinforcement layer of woven carpet material between the springs and the foam layer, hog-ringing the carpet to the zig-zag springs to ensure that the underlayment would not shift with occupant entry/egress. The carpet replaces the original layer of cotton burlap, which had long ago lost its ability to support the foam and isolate it from the springs.
New foam is installed, along with a layer of non-woven cotton/poly felt to retain the rear edge of the foam to the frame.
The felt also acts as an insulator/isolator between the rear section of the trim cover and the "bar cover", or rear bottom section of the frame.
The foam is trimmed to shape and "skived" or contoured at the perimeter to give a smooth appearance of the cover after assembly.
I have found that an electric carving knife works great for shaping and contouring the urethane foam.
The pink chalk mark highlights the center of the frame and the center of the trim cover.
I always start in the center and work outwards from the center to establish and maintain the proper cover position on the seat.
Like the original design, I added a layer of padding and burlap above the foam, then applied the trim cover:
The first step in retaining the cover was to hog ring the rear "tie-down" to the lower portion of the seat frame, just beneath where the forward edge of the seat back would eventually be positioned.
Then, working out from the center, hog-ringing the perimeter of the cover to the frame.
After building up the assembly, I determined that I needed additional padding to get the required comfort, fit and appearance. The cover was too loose on the pad assembly.
I removed the cover from the frame and added a thin layer of padding over the entire seating surface, with additional layers around the perimeter to provide a more full looking perimeter.
The second build-up was much improved
Attaching the seat back to the cushion is accomplished with 6 - yes, 6! - 1/4-20 bolts.
Adding the ash tray and robe cord to the seat back:
It took 3 of us to maneuver the seat into the car, but we managed to position it without any injuries or damage:
It will be challenging (impossible?) to install the seat side panels in the vehicle, but the side panels are still at the anodizer's facility.
If necessary, the seat will be removed to allow installation of the aluminum trim panels.
Dear Joe: Putting my front seat in next week I hope. As you know, most of my photos blew up in the computer. Does the front seat just bolt down or (as I have been told) there are two little channels that hold the front down. Confused. Any pictures of what they (if needed) might look like? Great series. I use your site a lot for my restoration. 49D wagon. Cheers from Alberta. Michael.
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Dear Joe: Awesome! I would need three of them as I have the split back seat. Do you have an idea of costs? Cheers. Michael.
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Yes, the oval shaped bumpers on the rear floor. Thoughts? Cheers. Michael.
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Where can I buy a new rope? Have not found a source yet. Cheers from Alberta.
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I was wondering if it would cost a lot to make the pucks for the rear seat legs? I don't even have the rough ones. Also, where do I find the rope for the back seat? Cheers from Alberta. Michael.
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Did Buick Jim et al end up making a mold and making new ones? Cheers from Alberta
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I had the same problem with my clips for the rear window trim. No one has them! Nor the gas line clips. So, like you, had to make them. Still watching your progress! Michael.
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Dear Gary: How did you make out on the chrome headliner pieces? Cheers. Michael.
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Dear Jim: Thanks! That is exactly what I was looking for. And, just discovered I don't that that little copper piece. Will dig some more or make one I guess. Cheers. Michael.
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Very inspiring. Been working on my 49D as well. I am at the stage to install the steering column and have lost the shots (well, almost the entire drive/file) of the rag connection and the mounting of the steering column in the engine compartment. Would you happen to have a couple of shots?
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I bought mine from Darryl Loose at WheelMaster@shaw.ca . 1 7/8 and not Coker. Great service. Cheers. Michael.
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Dear Doug: Edmonton. Mine is a 58 Estate Wagon 49D. It is almost all back together. Pink. Will be fun when it is done. It had been in a barn (yes, a real barn) north of Edmonton since the 1970s. Lots of work, but it is fun to play with. I'll fire you some pictures as it gets closer. I will be using your pictures to put my steering column back together. Cheers. Michael.
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I found this thread while looking for "1958 Buick grounding straps." Wow! what a great thread. I have spent the afternoon reading and been excited about a number of your thoughts (and the notes on the steering column, one of my next adventures). So, keep it up and stay dry. I understand that Irma may take a twist north once it hits. Cheers from Alberta. Michael.
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Thanks for the info. Mine is the 49D model, Estate Wagon. It seems that the wider trim did not come on my car but I have l/r as shown in the picture anyway. I think they dress up the car. Cheers. Michael.
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Yes, that is it. Where the ventilator on the door meets the body of the door ... there is a gap in mine which yours also seems to have. And yes, stick is on the ice this weekend! Edmonton will begin thawing Monday, we hope. On a side note, I did find the hard-board headliner and the ribbed material for the cargo area if you ever need those contacts. Cheers. Michael.
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I have gotten major info from your notes and pictures. My 58 Estate Wagon is getting closer. As there are several wagon-followers here I have a question. Do you have any pictures of the front doors/exterior? I am looking to find what the original reveal trim looks like as mine was missing. And what filled in the gap between the ventilator chrome and the door itself. I am thinking you have way better pictures than me.
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Yes, how did the project finish? Pictures? I'm thinking of doing this on my 58 Buick.
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Dear Jim: Thanks for the tip. I'll make sure I use Daytona Carpet. At some point, before it goes in to final paint, I think I'll have to invite a 58 wagon expert up just to check everything is authentic (except of course the disc brakes). Cheers. Michael.
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The dash is done, engine and tranny are in, headliner in, tailgate/liftgate completed, seats redone on my 58 Estate Wagon. My question is (as I have never actually seen a finished Buick wagon) do the seat supports sit on top of the carpet or does the carpet cover the supports up? Look forward to any thoughts.
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Dear Jim: No, I did not have to take the braces apart for chroming. The shop took care of all of that and they look just like I gave them to them, but with new chrome. Don't know how they did it, but they look great. How is your wagon coming along? I'm hoping to drop the motor back in tomorrow (with the help of one of my daughters, I hope; as long as she won't break a nail she says, sigh) but I still don't know what the torque specs are on the motor mounts. Thoughts? Cheers. Michael.
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Dear All: So, finally, the motor is going in this weekend. What is the torque for the mounts? I've gone through the manual a number of times and can't find it. Also, do the mounts go on the frame first, or on the motor first? Cheers from very cold Alberta. MH
1958 Caballero
in Me and My Buick
Posted
Dear Joe: Look forward to your search. My daughter, Kailla, and I searched (again) Sunday afternoon. Nothing. Cheers. Michael.