rons49
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Posts posted by rons49
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I have the Classic 23rd series, ie, 1942 to 1956. The last ( and only) copyright date is 1957. So I would guess they are reprints, since I bought mine new over 16 years ago. Ron
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Turn on the "pop out " switch on the dash( ignition contact key). Is there power to the points in the on position?
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Good grief, Dave! I didn't realize that you were the author until I read your reply, then scrolled down at the site for the author. Thanks for posting the site. Ron
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Spark Plug X-ref Chart This is the link, Ron
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Bob, It's funny you should ask about the AC 46. I just got off line to an excellant site for the AC-46 spark plug. To be brief, the 46 was the workhorse plug for GM for years. Before 1955 the plug was actually 46-5, as the "5" denoted before 1955 when all GM cars used wire boots over the plugs to eliminate cross fire(jumping) between plugs. My 1950 Cadillac was the last year Cadillac did not place boots on the wire. The 1951 dealer bulletins advised shops to convince owners to add the new boots when in for service. The pre 1955, 46-5 had a straight shank insulator and the boot would slide off the plug insulator so the ribbed insulator plug was installed for the 51 year. Eventually the suffix "5" was discontinued and the plug was simply designated 46, until the 60s when other suffixes were added. Go to the site it's neet. Ron
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Went to my Hollander Interchange. The drive 1922552 is for starter # 1109465. That starter fits a 1951 Nash model 40 Statesman and a 51 Rambler both with Hydromatic. Ron
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Any engine in good condition should pull 18-20 inches of vacuum at idle. Do a google on vacuum gauge charts.
for every 1000 ft elevation expect 1 Hg less.
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John, give Steve Engle a call at Engle Bros. Auto Radio, 909-543-6078 in Fontana Ca.
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NTX Very professionally and well stated. I spent years ( on & off) trying to find eliminate the "fuel starvation" issue with my Hornet, even going as far as the fuel return line back to the filler neck. In the last few years, I seam to have solved it. Insulation ( mylar) on fuel lines to the mech pump, which is set up for 5 PSI. Arizona roads are frying pans in the summer. Rerouting of the fuel pump to carb steel line away from the exhaust manifold, thereby increasing the distance from 3 inches to 8", then placing a length of easily removable mylar over the steel line. The carb spacers( gaskets) were only two deep above and below the heat shield. Replaced those with phenolic spacers as thick as the studs would permit. The car already has an AC/Delco 8011 electric pump as a primer, although I rarely need even it for that. Still one quirk, some times I have to hold the pedal to the floor and crank for a 4 seconds on a partly hot restart.Next summer, I have a couple of procedures that I want to try to address that.
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Thanks guys,
I went for a nice drive the other day without problem. She started hard since it had been a while since I ran her. I didn't want to flood, so I usually push the accelerator to just where the starter engages. I find that I can run the 9 psi fuel pump without flooding so plan on leaving that on all the time if I can. I will get a new carb insulator and also wrap the fuel lines. Maybe use a smaller inline fuel filter rather than the big glass bowl.
Will check the heat riser to make sure it is still hammered where I left it. We don't really need it here in NorCal. Maybe a little lower float bowl level will help stop percolation into the intake.
I guess the trick set-up going forward with our crappy fuel is to circulate fuel back to the tank and get a carb with an anti-percolation valve and I'm IN!
Hmmmmm..... Do those cool dual carb setups have anti-perc carbs????
Thanks,
Phil
Phil, the Carter WA-1, WE and WAs have 'em. What brand and model electric fuel pump are you using? 9psi is high and may flood at idle or if it is a free-flow type, gas will be restricted when the EP is off, requiring you to run the EP all the time. If the psi is actually 9 I would advise a fuel regulator, and not one of those "dial in" type.
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The hot spring does expand, and thereby releasing tension . There is tension on a "cold" spring which overcomes the weight. When hot, the tension releases, and the weight pulls the valve open. By disconnecting the spring off the stud on a cold engine, the spring tension is removed and the weight performs the same action as when Hot and connected. I doubt this is Phils problem. Unless the heat riser stays closed due to rust or ? Phil, does your car have the Carter WCD 725s. These don't have anti -perc valves. I have a 742s on my 50 Caddy. No problems ever. Try this. I know it's not SOP but,... do not push the pedal to the floor , don't touch it at all. Crank the engine for about 5 seconds. Then gently push the gas pedal 1/3 down and re crank. I saw this on line due to the modern fuel this was suggested. However with the carb/starter, that is out.
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Phil I mostly agree with Aaron. The gas on some Carters percolates after the engine is shut off until the engine cools. The percolation overflows the main jet and drips down into the manifold. Many times this is caused by a thing called anti -percolation valve that looks like a saxophone key. There is a correct adjustment to these A-P valves. If they stay closed after shut down, the excess gas floods over since the venting is blocked. Also, a thicker gasket ( preferably phenolic ones) helps avoid heat in the carb. Sometimes the float level is a bit too high due to the lighter fuels of the day. I did not solve the issue with a return line, but in theory it should work ala Chrysler & Amc. That is an envolved process requiring possible drilling a hole in the filler neck of the gas tank, & a restrictor( about .030) inline is necessary to maintain fuel pump pressure. Doesn't the Buick start by holding the pedal to the floor? That should clear the flooding in a few seconds. An electric pump is a good idea, but probably won't help on part warm restarts. Keeping the fuel lines cool with insulation is a help. Buy Mylar from Jegs online. I'm not in agreement on the Heat Riser(Exhaust valve?). By just disconnecting l, I the spring, the H-R valve defaults to open position and this is the normal warmed position. If it remains closed heat diverts to the intake and may vapor lock faster & stress the valves. At least that what happens on my 50 Caddy. Ron
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Read the first post. Wheel Creations
I saw Wheel Creations. Sorry, I was refering to the process for other parts, such as was suggested on the Leno film/link( hood ornament etc.). It appears WC does only wheels according to their online ad. Also, was the $195 for the whole set or each wheel? There is quite a difference in the ad... that is "starting at $580 for a set". Never the less, very interesting process.
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From viewing the Jay Leno youtube flick I believe this process will become very popular.
My friend that ownes the wheels also had his hubcaps doen at the same time so to insure there is no coclor difference as with chromwe and stainless.
He is so satisfied that they are going on an Auburn speedster destined to Pebble Beach.
The question about franchises in other locations around the US is a good one. The cost to ship wheels across the country and back is not cheap.
He had them done? So I take it that a business somewhere did the work? Who & where? I could not find a company on line.
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Are these kits that you buy, or are there shops that perform the "warrantied" process, such as Gas tank Renew does? The online site is rather lacking(.de). Certainly removing some pieces , plating , then replacing them is not some thing anyone wants to do twice. Has anyone had first hand experience with this process? I have some doubts... why has no one franchised this idea?
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Thanks, I'm beginning to think there's something to this theory. Not so much octane reduction, but volitility stabilization, by raising the boiling point. Kinda like Water Wetter for fuel. Ron
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Wayne, thanks for this thread. I have been contemplating selling one or two of my cars. After reading this article and laughing quite alot, I've reconsidered. One in particular from Matt Harwood, ie, Owning an collector car is like driving down the road throwing $20s out the window... it's no wonder that we collectors make folks happy. As an investment, especially those of us who a just a bit anal about originality, well let's say for what it cost to restore my Hornet in 1991, I could do a bit better than break even today. However, if I took the cash that I spent on the car a put it in Microsoft and in 2002 I could have bought every Hudson west of the Rockies. Look, I met nice folks world wide and had fun doing it. I have had invaluable lessons in more than car stuff. Whether or not that is a good monetary "investment", I can only say when I feal a bit down I can go to this sight( or some other club sites) or read some car related magizines and put aside my blues. That, sir, is a good investment. Ron Sotardi
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<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Well summer is over, and I would like to know... did anyone successfully overcome vapor lock drivability issues by using kero or diesel for the last 12 months. Were there any penalties, such as, smoke, fouled plugs or what? Year and make of car, if possible. Ron<!-- google_ad_section_end --> -
Well summer is over, and I would like to know... did anyone successfully overcome vapor lock drivability issues by using kero or diesel for the last 12 months. Were there any penalties, such as, smoke, fouled plugs or what? Year and make of car, if possible. Ron
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Here's a rule that everyone having a car judged by AACA should remember. You only lose points for what they see. If you put new flat glass in your windshield make sure the rubber is correct and all the stainless trim is as it should be and does not have any scratches. They are not going to look for the glass codes and if they see it they may or may not know if your glass code is correct. I would not worry about it.
All the windows, (and practically everything else) in a Met has a date code. I am not aware of any AACA judge checking any of them.
That said, after I replaced the windshield on my Met, I perfected a way of putting on the glass code logos. I was having special concours judging done at a Met show and one of the judges asked how I put the logo on the windshield. With a straight face I lied and told him it was original glass that came that way. When the judges got done laughing, they told me that I put the logo in the center rather than in one of the top corners where it belonged. If I told them how I did it, they would not take off the one point for the correct logo with the correct date code being in the wrong location.
Bill
That's what I thought. I personally never took a point off when judging, but I never inquired if any one else ever did. Ron
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What is the official judging policy of the AACA on deductions for lack of manufacturer date codes on glass, ie, "bug script" ? Is it a deduction or is the condition of the glass the criteria? Or is it up to the judge?
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This thread got me going. The model J Hudson Super Six( one of the great cars of all time... I'm an HET member) sold for about $1400, the 1917 Cadillac Touring for $2080( I'm a CLC member also). Go foward to 1920. The 1920 Hudson sold for, get this, $2400 ( after being reduced from $2600) and the equivilent Cadillac model for $3700. Wow! that is INFLATION. War is hell... and expensive. It's no wonder 1921 saw a large recession. Ron
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Prowler, Check out a 32/33 Rockne. They were a base line of Studebaker and rumble seats were sold on the coupes. The grille appeared to be in a V until you are right up close. Tough car to find and restore. A friend used to have one. Had to use 34 Ford headlights cause he could not find a set, anyone wished to sell. Ron
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I have had many ACs done by Then & Now in Mass. They are on line. Ron
1931 ford model a electrical problem
in Technical
Posted
Lildrip, the advise above is right on. Don't forget when the coil is charged through the circuit, there will be current draw of about 1.5 amps in a 6 volt car. Advise get a copy of Les Andrews Model A repair shop manual. It is a great learning tool. Ron