26Willys
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Posts posted by 26Willys
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Just an update... Got the manuals yesterday
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I emailed David last week but haven't received a response. I could try again
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Has anyone ordered anything recently from the Buick Heritage Alliance? I ordered two manuals on July 28th and have yet to receive them. I tried several times emailing the contact listed on the BHA website but it is returned as undeliverable. I also emailed the BHA president last week. No response from him.
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It could be from the casting process. My '21 has a rod rolling around in the intake passage that would be extremely difficult to remove. The block had to have been cast around it.
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It turns out a 20's u-joint will not work on a '16. The newer u-joint is slightly bigger and longer. The housing hits the back of the u-joint before it can be bolted all of the way down.
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There should be a washer on the outside of the front bearing, but behind the cork seal. I believe that is where your washer should go.
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I was just getting ready to suggest slack in the timing gears or endplay on the water pump shaft. I had both problems on my '21 but it was more of a random knock than one that was in time with a cylinder.
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I have a '16 roadster with a worn out u-joint and a spare u-joint from the early to mid 20's. The newer u-joint will fit the transmission and driveshaft just fine, but is slightly bigger in diameter. Has anyone used a newer joint in an early car? It seems like it would work, but I'd hate to get it all together and find out its hitting something inside, and then have to tear it back apart again.
Thanks
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Thanks. Here is a picture of the one that was in there. Looks the same as my '21. Was the correct switch for a '16 also made by Clum?
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Does anyone have a picture of the polarity reversing ignition switch used with Delco ignition? My car came with a later switch and I'd like to correct it. Just need to know what to look for.
Thanks
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As far as I know the pan was left bare.
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A 4 cylinder DB in good shape should cruise comfortably at 35-40 mph. I've had my '21 touring up to around 60 mph, but that is way beyond a comfortable or safe speed.
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Looking for an oil pump cover for a 1921 Pierce Arrow truck. Possibly the same as used on cars?
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5 hours ago, jstro said:
So it seems I don't need a puller after all. I have to remove the front plate of the wheel, and there is a through bolt which needs removed. I will post an update later tonight with some pictures to help the next guy : )
Jon
Yep, pre '22 is a full floater so no puller is needed. Just knock out the pin, slide the axle out, and remove the plate or you can remove the plate and axle in one piece
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This may help. The nut is packed with asbestos rope.
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So the '25 tailpipe did end before the rear axle? I've seen a lubrication chart for a '24. It shows pipe all the way back, but also shows a bracket on the rear crossmember that this car has no holes for.
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Unfortunately I don't have a lubrication chart for a '25. It looks almost as if it had the early exhaust that ended in front of the rear axle, but I thought by '25 they went over the axle.
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Any ideas?
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How was the tailpipe originally hooked up on a 25 sedan?
There is a bracket directly behind the muffler but what about the end of the pipe? There is a small hole to the right of the gas tank strap, but that doesn't seem quite right.
Thanks
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Does anyone have a GOOD radiator for a '21 that will keep the engine cool? The one on there now looks good, flows good, and is very clean inside, but the fins are loose on the tubes. It won't keep the car cool.
Thanks
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I took a closer look at the bolts and nuts. The threads on the bolts looked great, but the threads in the nuts were starting to roll. I used the original bolts and found some new castellated nuts at Fastenal.
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The '26 did a lot better than I expected. The fenders seemed a little thick, but overall it was decent. The '28, '29, and '36 I didn't not look over very close, but they looked very nice and also brought way more than I expected.
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On a '21 Dodge does it matter how the flywheel is clocked? There are two faint lines scribed on opposite sides of the flywheel face that lined up with the crank throws when I took it apart the first time. Now its apart again for a balance issue, and I'd like to make sure I have it on correctly. The only thing the Mechanics Manual says is "When flywheel is installed on crankshaft be sure it is assembled so that the timing marks are in proper position with the crankshaft." I don't see any other timing marks on the flywheel.
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Thanks. I'll let you guys know what I end up using.
1912 Cadillac Model 30 to be auctioned
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
Sold for $19,000 plus at least 17%. Went to a phone bidder.