taskytaskerson

I am need of a crt computer screen. The touchscreen part still works but the display is fried. Anyone have one for sale, or know how to repair one?

Actually, it is the wire harness that connects to the switch that is damaged.

The controls for the power seats in my '89 are shot. Is there any way to adjust the seats without the electric controls? Also, how do I remove the seats?

how would I go about replacing the turn signal/cruise control lever?

I started my '89 up the other morning and heard a sizzling in the dash and the computer screen flickered a few times and then went blank. Soon after I smelled that burnt circuit board smell and smoke was coming out from behind the screen. Since than, whenever I start the car I smell the same smell and smoke appears. The screen remains blank. any input?

No, the window won't budge upwards no matter how much I help it. The motor has recently been replaced because of the same problem.

My damn drivers side window is stuck half way down and it won't stop raining. The down switch rolls it down, but the up switch doesn't do a thing. For awhile the up switch barely worked, only moving about 1/2 an inch at a time with around a half an hour in between each button push, which would take all day or more. Help me please !!!!!!!!!!!!!

how would I check to see if that is the problem?

Recently my '89 reatta has developed a sound coming from the front part of the car, somewhere near my feet. It started out a small rumbling, almost like a loose exhaust pipe rattling, but in the last few weeks it has gotten progressivly worse and now it seems like when I push on the gas pedal, it takes a second before the car reacts. It sounds like a loud rattling/rumbling that I can feel in my feet. It's mostly noticeable when I accelerate. Help please!!! Suggestions????????

the amber light doesn't work when I push the test button

The color of the fluid is super dark, and the pump only runs about 20 seconds or so , not 45. The red light is always on, as soon as you turn the car on it comes on and it never goes off. I hav enever seen the amber light. Also when I open the back bleeders, there is no sign of fluid whatsoever.

the E-brake works, calipers are free moving

the red light never goes off. Ever! When I pump the brakes the fluid comes up to the line. If I turn the car on, it falls again. the pump is pumping, but not to the back brakes.

Yes, the pump runs, when I pump the breaks it gets real stiff after a few pumps but if I hold my foot on the pedal it continues to go to the floor very slowly and it makes a kind of groaning sound.

The who bone's connected to the where bone what? How about explaining that in terms someone who just found out what the master cylinder was.

I cannot do the brake test because the red light[color:\\"red\\"] never goes off. Now what, smartie!

The car is parked people......has been for days. And yes, I'm well aware that there are no rear brakes. I'm not as dumb as you may think.

Checked out the back brakes and nothing's happening back there what so ever. Next step, I'm going to bleed the brakes. One question though, is it possible to bleed the lines without the j-35793 bleeder adapter?

my brakes feel like the don't work until the last second. The red brake warning light is always on, sometimes it wil flicker on bumby roads, and I think the back brakes are not working at all, the discs stay cold. good thing i like to live dangerously! Anyone got a diagnosis for the symptoms? any help is appreciated

okay here's the low down on the down low: I replaced the diode with a small gauge wire. Nothing happens when I use the headlight on switch. both headlights light up and pop up when I push the headlight retract button. . when I switch to hi-beams the dash display blinds me. the park lights come on when I use the park lights switch but not all the dash lighting works. then if I hit the fog light switch (now fog, retract,park,and headlight switches all on) the remainder of the dash lights come on and there is no power surge when switching between hi and lo beams, but the fog lights still don't work.

wiggled wires in various places throughout the car and tried to find a bad ground. No such luck. but when I check inside the car, the light cover motors run when you push the retract button, all lights on the headlight switch come on, and the headlights work and the halogen lights on display is flickering.then i try to turn it all off and the little light in the headlights on switch won't go off at all, the halogen light on display is flickering on and off, the motors still run, but lights don't pop up(never did).i remembered I had unhooked the wire harness to the back of the headlight.I put it back on and everything goes back to the way it was when i started!!!!*&%$#@!*

the wire harness that goes to the back of the tape player on an '89 has five wires. Red=power. Black=ground. What about the other 3? (2 green and a yellow)

located in chelan, WA (middle of Washington state) How much?

I need a hood, front passenger side quarter panel, and the entire headlight assembly and cover for the passenger side. Anyone out there that can help?

Replaced the headlamp diode and shazam!!....the headlight retract works like it should and the headlights come on.....but the diode fried itself in a few seconds. I reversed polarity and tried with a new diode but nothing. I then switched it back and fried the diode again. The lights still don't come on with the headlight switch, but the park lights do. Nothing from the foglights at all. What next?