tubecatgs

Thanks I appreciate the input. I was sent the proper (I was told) oil pressure sensor and temp sensor along with this gauge. I think I have every thing I need to get rolling except the wiring diagram. I guess I may be asking a lot for someone to get out a book and tell me how to wire it but I don't even know where to turn to order/buy a wiring diagram for this.... thanks again to any one with any input.

I have an original oil pressure/temp/fuel gauge all in one cluster that I want to put in my 1970 skylark customer to remove the fuel gauge with idiot lights. I have no idea which lead/post goes where. does any one out there have a wiring diagram or can assist me on how to wire this gauge up? I have an extra "plug harness" that fits but just need to know what post on the back of the gauge goes where. I have labeled the posts 1,2,3, etc in the attached picture if this helps for a quick description. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks

In my lifetime I have removed 4 or 5 70-72 Skylark/GS dash bezels. I can never seem to do do it right though. I also crack something or it takes me hours. The hardest part I guess is to remove the speedometer cable and climate control linkage and try to remove all the gauges and switches. I have a ralley gauge set and restored clock I want to put into my 1970 Skylark custom Convertible. What do you think is the best way to approach this? In what order and do you remove the gauges from the bezel first etc. Thanks to any one who will help.

I have been on vacation and TRULY APPRECIATE all the feedback I have received while I was away. I will take a better look at the set up and read these posts a couple more times and let you allmknow how I am making out. Thanks again.

thanks. the car currently has a 455 that' not running. I was going to put a rebuilt 350 in it for a year or 2 until I can redo the 455. So the car has the TH400 and driveshaft in it already.Will the 350 just drop it and replace the 455 or will I still have to make any modications to the position of the tranny or lenght or the driveshaft?? Some one mentioned that I may need a "kickdown" switch, I'm not sure what that is?? If the car doesn't already have it I mat need to know what it is and where can I buy one etc. Thanks again Brad <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Simple questions for most but I just have no idea but can you use a buick turbo 400 tranny with a buick 350 engine. Both in the 70-72 time frame. if anyone could explain this to me i would appreciate it. Thanks

thanks, I found the thread,great ideas! very helpful with good tips. pictures were great. I think I'll combine both ideas of using my roof and building supports/braces from the floor to the ceiling joyces for support so the roof doesn't fall down. This way the body is in doors and less of of a hoist needs to be built and my ceiling is open, easy to get to. I'll then attach angle iron and or 2x4's or 6's to the frame mounts and use some comealongs to raise the car. Once up in the air I'll roll out the frame and rest the angle iron/2x4 or 6's on something high enough to get under and work on it. I really like the idea of being able to tip the car on it's side so I'll probably then hook come alongs on all 4 corners of the attached braces on the frame. This way I'll be able to raise one side and work on it and then raise the other and work on it. Thanks again, I learned a lot from your thread. It will probably be a couple weeks before I am ready but I'll let you know how I made out. Brad

I have a 70 GS 350 that I want to have the frame and under body sandblasted and painted. The car has solid floors but just starting to show surface rust. I bought it as a shell, nothing in or on it, just the body and frame. So I thought before I put it back together ( I have all the parts needed fro my last 3 buick projects and parts cars ) I would have it sandblasted and painted before there is any damage.I am a hobbyist and have a decent shop but do not have the funds for a professional restoration. I would any suggestions on the easiest/safest way to lift the body off. I have comealongs, chain hoists, cherry pickers. I did this once by attaching chains to the door hinge bolts and chains to the trunk hinges and lifted up the body with chain hoists and rolled the frame out. That body was being junked to I didn't care if it twisted and since i never put it back together, I don't know if it messed up the trunk. So if anyone has any ideas or suggestions I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance for your time.

I have a 70 GS that is solid everywhere but behind the rear window and passenger side trunk lip rear quarter panel area. I don't know if buying a rear quarter panel will fix my problem or if someone has a parts car that they can cut out the section that I need. I've attached a pic of the bad area. I am in the Bullafo NY area and the car is a 1970 buick GS.

HELP!!!!!!!!does anyone have a solution to my 1/4 panel nightmare? It's in a tough spot. The rest of the car is in great shape, solid floors and o.k. trunk and great frame. I'm trying to figure out if I should stick with my original plan which was to take this 70 GS and cut out the floors and trunk for my 71 skylark convertible project. I bought the 70 GS for $275 and it came with a GS hood. I have enough parts to make each car a daily driver. But after I got the GS and saw how nice the rest of he car was I thought maybe I could patch the 1/4 panel by cutting a piece out of a 3rd parts convertile car I have. What should I do? Do I put all my efforts into the convertible (which would involve stealing the floors and trunk from the GS), part out the convertible and buy a 1/4 for the 70 GS or create 2 driver quality vehicles?

Will the floors interchange also?

I have a 71 skylark convertible parts car that has a weak frame. I also have a 70 GS I'm working on. I'm wondering if the doors, trunk lid, rear quarters, rear springs and rear control arms will fit the hard top. I think the frame is different on the rear of the car?????? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks very much for you're input. The dash I have is also a convertible dash as well, so I think it will work fine. I appreciate the tips also, the parts car I have has a good windshield as well, so I have a backup if needed . So the dash will have to be welded, o.k. Do you know where it's attached exactly? I see it's attached to the sides, when the windshield is out will I then more clearly? Thanks again Brad

I'm working on a 71 skylark convertible with air conditioning that has sat for 15 years. From the firewall back (body anyway) is in great shape, but the dash rusted so bad it has holes in it. I have a parts car with a good dash (non a/c) that I would like to put in. I don't care that it won't have the a/c. I was under the impression that a dashboard is just bolted on to the body. I've removed the gauges,radio,steering column, duct work etc. only to find out that it looks like it's welded on??? Does any one know the best way to remove the dash??? I do have all the parts I need to make a solid car when done (new engine,tranny,top etc ) or am I in over my head, is a dash replacement extremely difficult and require professional welding/installation etc???? any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks Brad

I just picked up a 71 skylark custom that's been sitting for a long time (15 years) . I need help trying to get the top down. There is no battery and I'm sure the hydraulics don't work anyway. so if someone could help with a procedure to get the top down I would greatly appreciate it. I don't even know if there is a switch even if i had a battery in it and the hydraulics worked I greatly appreciate any input. Thanks Brad

I just picked up a 71 skylark custom that's been sitting for a long time (15 years) . I need help trying to get the top down. There is no battery and I'm sure the hydraulics don't work anyway. so if someone could help with a procedure to get the top down I would greatly appreciate it. I don't even know if there is a switch even if i had a battery in it and the hydraulics worked (there is a switch that says accessory "on-off" to the right of the clock any idea what that is for??) I greatly appreciate any input. Thanks Brad

Duh! I see you are in ohio! Sorry

Where are you located??? I'm very interested!!

I'm looking for a 70-72 buick GS or skylark to restore I live in Buffalo NY area.I have 75 Olds cutlass in really good shape (needs very minor frame work) I'd be willing to trade for. please e-mail me at tubecat@hotmail.com for pictures. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It must have a solid frame, inner fenders and radiator core support. besides that any condition would be entertained.I would really like a manual transmission but I can't seem to find any like that so any configuration (buckets, bench seats etc. ) would be acceptable. . thanks Brad Please call me anytime at 1-800-616-5390 or 1-716-481-1169