gregw

Sorry, another question.... The reason why I want to use a rubber seal rather than a rope seal is because as I understand it, assembly with a new rope seal requires that I tighten down the caps just right as I measure the torque on the crankshaft itself. I assume that I would have to undo the connecting rods too in order to properly measure crankshaft torque. All this so that the rope compresses just right? This is why I'm thinking that I prefer rubber seal replacement - just slide it in and tighten the main cap to spec. Please correct me if I'm wrong - this is all new to me. Greg

You're quite right - I should pull the crank and do it right. I was hoping to just avoid that and slip in a new seal. I've never removed or installed a crankshaft before, so I'm a bit nervous. I guess I'm trying to avoid scope creep - one thing leads to another, and the engine runs pretty good as is. Is it as simple as unbolt the caps and pull it out? Installation is the opposite? Can I be sure that a rubber seal will fit into the place of a rope seal, or is that not necessarily the case? Thanks Greg

Hi, I have a 1977 302 ford engine. It's not an antique, but you guys sound like you'd have the answer. The engine is out of vehicle on the engine stand. It's leaking oil badly through the rear main seal. I openned it up hoping that it would be the two rubber halfs type of seal, but it turns out to be a rope seal. I do not want to take out the crank shaft unless absolutely necessary. Can I replace the rope seal with a rubber "slip lip seal" (comes in 2 halves and is very easy to install). If so, how do I remove the existing rope seal that is in the block side? Will the rubber seal just slide in there and replace the rope? I tried pushing the rope seal on the block half, hoping that it would come out the other side. But all it did was get jammed in deep, and then I realized that I should not have done that... Thanks Greg