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About my40zeph

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  1. All of the previous replies are excellent suggestions, and as someone said, everything helps. We have a 1940 sedan that also has some problems getting hot, but only under certain circumstances, such as stop and go traffic, and/or when outside temperature is over 80 degrees. However, It runs cool emough while moving on the highway, even at temps over 80. Overheating was a problem with these engines from the time they were new, and Ford made improvements over the years trying to solve the problem. Some examples are changes to the pumps themselves. I think the earliest pumps had 8 vane impellers, which later went to 6 vane with shafts that measured 4 27/32" in length. In Dec. 1939, the length of the shaft was made longer, to 5", in order to accommodate a bigger impeller, presumably to pump more water. Then, in 1941, they added the deflectors inside the block just behind/over the impellers which were designed to direct more of the water flow towards the rear of the block, as it is a long way front to back. Temps at the rear of the engine were a problem to control. Addionally, somewhwere along the line, someone figured out that bigger holes in the head gaskets for the water passages at the rear of the engine would improve water flow back there, and as mentioned in the previous replys, is a recommended change. I could go on, but bottom line is your problem is a common one many of us have had to deal with, but it can be greatly improved. Bear in mind, that there are many things that can contribute to overheating, and everything needs to be up to top condition for best results. Here would be my list of steps to take, in order I would do them, right behind checking out the thermostats to be sure they are functioning properly and are both the same; 1) Be sure ignition system is up to snuff, including timing and that all cylinders are firing. 2) Be sure carbeurator is functioning properly and that settings are correct. Lean mixture and bad ignition timing can both contribute to engine temp. 3)Check exhaust system for obstructions, and to be sure it is of adequate size and type. At this point, if you found discrepencies in any of the above, I would run the car to see if there is improvement. 4)Remove water pumps and send to Skip Haney in Florida for updating ($212 for the pair including return shipping)- much better water flow than originals along with other improvements. However, read my previous posts on this site re: water pump shaft lengths, as I'm not sure we ever answered the question whether the longer shaft pumps fit in the earlier blocks. I also don't know length of shafts in Skips pumps, but I have a pair there now and should have them back in a week or so. 5) Look inside the block through water pump cavities to check for rust and scale buildup. That should help you determine if your block needs flushing. 6) install the deflectors in the block. They can be purchased from Earl Brown, or you can make your own from .015' brass shim stock. Email me ( with your name and address and I can send you copies of articles about this item that contain full size patterns. 7) Check upper and lower hoses carefully. Sometimes old hoses can collapse restricting water flow. 8) Re-assemble. After re-assembling, I would run the engine with a plain water solution, adding some anti rust and water pump lubricant and check for results. Note: Be sure to change to an anti freeze solution after your problem is solved. Acquire a temp. sensor that reads temps by just holding close to what you are measuring. I'm not sure what they are called, but Radio Shack has them for about $50, and you can then check temps everywhere on your engine from the outside. Actually this might be a good idea as the first thing to do before anything else above. I've never used any of the additives such as Purple Ice which supposedly run cooler than water, but I'm a believer of only using things like that as a last resort if you can't get systems to perform properly by bringing everything up to snuff. I'm sure I've missed other good steps, and I've rambled way too long, so I'll end here. Good luck, and keep us posted. Ron G.
  2. OK experts, here's my next help question. My early '40 sedan has latch type trunk hinges with the latch mechanism only on the right (passenger side) hinge. Unfortunately, someone tried closing the lid without first lifting it to release the latch - well, you know the story. Should both hinges have latches, and will the later hinges with springs instead of latches work on my '40 without modification? Perhaps if someone has a '41 or later body manual, that might show if the spring type would replace the latch type on the '40. Of course, I'm in need of a replacement hinge, or pair of hinges if any of you happen to have some lying around. Re; my previous water pump shaft length questions, I sent a pair of pumps to Skip, and have determined the longer shafts will fit in my block, but still don't know if my block is early or later. I'll check that against Georges post on block ID when I get a chance to crawl under the car, and will also measure the length of Skip's shafts when I get the pumps back. Ron
  3. Thanks Rolf. Yes, I'm aware of the parts book details on the different shafts and impellers, in fact I have several different pumps with all the different configurations. However, the parts books, even the 1948 chassis version, specifically lists the shorter shaft and smaller impeller for engines prior to H-91345, and the longer 5" shaft with wider impeller for engines after that. The potential problem is that the longer shaft and wider impeller reaches deeper into the block, possibly coming in contact inside. One would think that if there was no problem using the longer shaft on the older engines, Lincoln would have just superceded the old part numbers and shown the newer version as replacement for '36 to '48, but they didn't. It may be a mute point for me, as when I removed the left pump on my engine, it was the longer shaft, and I'm going to remove the right side today and will check that side for clearance with the longer shaft too. My car's serial number is before the change, but the heads on my engine are '42, and I don't know if just the heads were changed or the entire engine. Thanks for your help.
  4. As a follow up addional question, has anyone used Skip's pumps in a pre 1940 engine?
  5. Does anybody know if the longer 5" water pump shaft, which replaced the shorter 4 27/32" shaft in mid Dec. 1939 (starting with engine #H-91345) works Ok in the pre H-91345 blocks? Dave Coles article in the May-June 2004 TWOTZ suggests a change to the block casting to accomodate the longer shafts, but I can't seem to find any other reference to that anyplace, including George Tricketts wonderfully detailed post on engine blocks last Feb. 2004. My car is early 40, prior to H-91345, but the heads are 26H, so don't know if just my heads were changed, or the whole engine. Thanks for any help!! Ron G. (MN)