Jump to content

RASCARS

Members
  • Posts

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by RASCARS

  1. To determine what tpye of suspension your Starfire has, go to FUSICK.com. They specialize in Olds parts. They give a step by step description in their listings of how to determine which suspension type you have. You will find the centerlink on Ebay you did not bid on was a steal if it turns out to be the correct one. You may want to save the seller info incase you need to contact him/her in the future. As for the parts that made the most difference, I cannot say as I did everything all at once. I also had www.powersteering.com rebuild my steering box and change the turning ratio from 24:1 to 16:1 varible ratio. That made a huge difference. I had to have trailing arm bushings custom made for the rear suspension. Those were done by a company in California called www.rareparts.com.. I paid $50 per bushing and there are eight of them! Now rareparts has the ability to market them. I called and emailed 100's of sellers and finally gave up and had them made. These bushings helped the ride quality also. My car drives like a like a dream. Rebuilding the suspension was the best thing I've done so far to the car. By the way, I did 4 coil springs and Gabriel shocks too. Every piece of suspension is new on my car. Lots of time and a sizable cash investment, but worth it.
  2. I just finished rebuilding the front and rear suspension on my 1963 Starfire. Yes, the center link os different depending on whether your car has Saginaw or Thompson. I ended up with an extra NOS Saginawn centerlink. If you are interested in purchasing it Email me at bobspag@the-beach.net Thanks Bob
  3. I looking for a Wheel opening molding for the right front fender Please contact me at bobspag@the-beach.net Thank you
  4. Thank you once again Rocket Raider! I have printed your response to show to my friend. I cannot tell you how much this site means to Olds Ownership!! Happy Oldsmobile-ing! Bob
  5. I was playing with my 1963 Starfire the other day when a very good friend of mine, who is also a cracker jack mechanic, looked under my car and said "your Olds has a Ford Rear End!" He told me that the bolts on my differential are in the front of the differential like Fords and that GM's are bolted from the rear. I have often wondered if something like this was the case as my car seemed to run at a higher RPM on the highway than other Olds cars of similar vintage (non-slim Jim though). For example, at 80 MPH I'm running about 3500+ RPM's. Does any one have any thoughts or can any one post a picture of a 1963 rear end and differential so I can compare it to mine,please? I know that GM used Ford parts from time to time, so maybe my friend is correct and the rear end in my car is correct too??? Any words of wisdom would be most appreciated by yours truly! Thanks Bob
  6. Thanks Glenn, I happen to have a correct OEM Temp. sending unit on the shelf. I will replace it as well. It's like chicken soup, it couldn't hurt! Bob
  7. I don't know the engine set up on the 1990, but I had a similar situation with a 1995 Ninety eight I had with about 100K on it. My car had the bullet proof 3800 V6. I changed the 3 coils, new plugs ans plug wires, retimed the engine and the car ran like new. I have heard that some models have a coil tray that is "hot" also. If you car has that (see shop manual) you should replace the tray(s) too. The car may stumble a bit at first until the computer(s) learn the new settings, but it will learn within your normal day of driving. Good luck!!
  8. Thaks for the responses. I had contacted Radiator.com in my initial search and they only have books back to 1965. It is a typical problem for 63 Olds owners. Parts run from the 1940's through 1962, skip 1963 and 1964 and begin again in 1965! I have also had "issues" with USA Olds. Most recently the water pump they sent wasn't even close to fitting nor did resemble the OEM. There have been other concerns in my parts past with USA, but as you say Paul, I don't want to vendor bash either. I just want to use USA as my only and last resort. I pulled the radiator today and took it to a local, old time radiator shop for an old fashion Recore. I'm also changing the fan clutch since it is accessible. I found one at Auto Zone with a lifetime warranty for $32 vs USA's price of $75 plus shipping. Again, Thanks Guys and have a great Holiday weekend. Bob
  9. Thank you Thank you Thank you to all!!!!! This is exactly the advice I needed. There is a raditor shop in Ft. Lauderdale that has a good reputation. This weekend I will remove the old and deliver it for a recore. Thanks, RocketRaider, for the USA Info. That is where I was going to place the order!! As always this is the very BEST forum on the web-bsar none!!! Happy Oldsmobiling!! Bob
  10. My 63 Starfire has been freshly tuned and runs like a TOP! However, it is running HOT, real HOT! I think I need a new Radiator for my 63 Starfire. My search so far has only turned up one that would work from USA Olds in Virginia at almost $400 for the four row I need. I'll also change the thermostat at the same time. I was going to use a 160 degree since I live in South Florida and heat is our life. Any suggestions anyone? Thanks Bob
  11. Pau l, I rechecked the manual and found the info at the end of the suspension chapter. I had only looked in the Spring install area previously. I worked all day and now my car sits like a new 63 Starfire! Again Many Thanks Bob
  12. Paul, Thanks for the quick response. What you describe is exactly what I needed to correct, except now my car looks like its 4 wheel drive(not quite that bad, but not the low sleek lines of the original). I'm going to recheck the shop manual. I must have over looked the info on my first pass through. Thanks again.
  13. I have received and installed the rebuilt steering box from Powerstreering.com and I installed the CUSTOM made trailing arm bushings from Rare Parts. I could not be happier with their service and the quality of work I received. Thank you again for your recommendations!! HAppy Oldsmobiling!!
  14. I just receieved my 63 Starfire Coupe from having the front and rear suspension rebuilt, imcluding 4 new coil springs. My car now sits up much higher than is should. I need to know the correct ride height of a 63 Starfire so this can be corrected-It's AWFUL!! Does anyone have the correct ride height for a 1963 Starfire Coupe. If not, would aone or two of our members do me a great favor and measure their 63 Starfires for me please? I need the height measured from the ground to the bottom of the rocker panel and I need the height measured from the ground to the bottom of the wheel opening mouldings on the top line of the fender for both the back and front fenders. These measurements should pass over the center of the wheel itself on the way up to the bottom of the top piece of wheel opening. God, I hope this make sense to you all! Any and all suggutions from anyone that has experienced this situation, please contact me with any suggetions. I'm looking forward to hearing from you all as soon as you are able to help out. As always, I'm truly greatful for this Fourm to all us a place to lend a hand. Thank you Bob RASCARS
  15. Thank you both for your input and suggestions. I will be on the phone Monday morning!! Happy Holidays!
  16. Happy Holidays Olds Fans!! My seemingly never ending restoration of my 63 Starfire coupe has brought two new challenges. The first challenge deals with trailining arm bushings. I have purchased two sets-one "nos" and a second from the local NAPA store. Both sets have a 1/2 inch whole in the center with a metal sleeve for the bolt to pass through to the mounting brackets on the chassis. The challenge is the old bushings (presumably original) have a 5/8 inch pass through hole. I have called USA Parts, Fusick and Kanter as well as local parts stores with no luck. Any suggestions as to where I might find these bushings with a 5/8 inch hole or do anyone know a place that will make up a set of bushings to fit? Challenge Two: I need a rebuilt steering box or a rebuild kit for my box. Again, the usual phones calls to USA, Kanter and Fusick as well as the local parts stores turned up nothing. Anyone know where I might find a rebuilt steering box or a rebuild kit? Any and all suggestions are welcome Thank you for all your help Bob RASCARS
  17. I'm looking for a 1994 or 1995 Cutlass convertible to replace my daily driver. I loved these cars when they first hit the showrooms in the early 90's but I was not in the position to purchase one at the time. I ran across a 94 W 34 edition the other day. It looks really great with the striping and the rear buckets. (Triple Black with silver stripes). It is very well equipped including the HUD. Does anyone have any info on the W 34 edition of this model? Also, the car has about 100,000 miles and has been well cared for. Do I need to be aware of anything especially quirky on these cars? I know the 3.1 V 6 is basicly bullet proof, but I don't know much about the 3.4. I'd like to be able to put another 75000 or so on it without having major diffculities. I'm a maintenance nut-Mobil one every 3500 miles, etc. Any guidance would be helpful. Also, how rare is this W 34 edition? Is it worth it to buy a higher mileage car verus getting a similarly equipped lower mileage straight Cutlass convertible? I anticipate keeping this in my collection in 3 or so years. Thanks to everyone that uses this wonderful site. I have really come to depend on ot for guidance and advice. Have a wonderful "Olds" day!! Bob
  18. I checked the compression It is between a low of 180 and a high of 205.
  19. The car and engine have 84,000 original miles. The engine has never been taken down. I have been thinking about doing a full rebuild, but that may entail too many "might as wells" and $$$$. The car is just begining to burn a little oil from the left side of the engine for about the first 10 minutes of driving, then it's fine. I'm going to check the compression tomorrow and I'll report my findings. Thanks for responding
  20. I am in the process of doing a number of needed repairs on my 1963 Starfire. I need to replace the rear main seal. Is there anything I should replace or service while the engine and transmission are apart? Thank you, Bob
  21. Dear Glenn, Thank you for your help and suggestions. I will use the Dexron II for my service. I do appreciate your timely advice. Bob
  22. Does anyone have any experience with using Synthetic Transmission fluid in a Slim Jim? I am about to service my Slim Jim in my '63 Starfire and I was contemplating using a synthetic fluid. I would really appreciate your information, suggestions and experiences you can share with me. Thank you Bob
  23. I'm looking for a very clean, low mileage 1994 or 1995 Cutlass Convertible. The ideal car will have leather, rear buckets, HUD, 3.4L engine, and less than 60,000 miles. I know it is difficult to order from the used car store, but maybe someone has a lead or two for me. Thank You Bob
  24. If anyone has a set of tail light lenses or an individual tail light lense for a 1963 Starfire, please contact me. I also need front turn signal lenses for the same car. Does any one know where I might find these items? Thank you all for your on-going support. Bob bobspag@the-beach.net
×
×
  • Create New...