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tailfin58

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Posts posted by tailfin58

  1. Should be stanmped into frame somewhere near LH A-arm mounting...

    but Assumming ORIGINAL engine still in place.. Try looking on a machined boss

    just ahead of pass side cylinder head where it meets the block .

    on FRONT of block. You may have to move a/c compressor if so equipped

    Also it should appear on an often lost plastic tag on Lock Pillar of drivers door, along with a spot for writing last oil change mileage.

    Vin should start 61 J xxxxxx if 2dr Coupe Deville

    or 61 G xxxxxx if 2 dr Series 62 base model

    Another thing to check is the Body Tag / Dataplate located under hood on cowl

    about above the brake booster. Should give numbers for STYLE Paint Trim Accessories and Body number.

    Send me this info or post and I'll decode with my 61 Cad Master Parts Book

    These are great cars BTW with much lighter steering than 57-60's, le$$ chrome to replate, better visibility,bulletproof 390 engine, and 4 speed

    dual range hydromatic (WATCH OUT FOR SHIFT PATTERN !)

    Reverse is all the way down and it takes a little getting use to when backing.

    Most mechanical bits are available through regular parts houses, but sometimes it helps to have the OEM part numbers to interchange with their listings.

    I have used Broadway Title in Alabama in the past, but recently their leadtimes are a LOT LONGER than they used to be. Check with your LOCAL registry first

    I have a lot of parts, books and info, for these as I am working on a Style 61-6267 Deville Convert.

    Worst spots for rust are the lower part of front fender as all GM cars of the era, also peculiar to these models: the front edges near headlight and bumper corners and also front edge of hood.

    1961 and 1962 Both use same front fenders( on all but limos and hearses etc.

    but they are tough to find rustfree except out west. (I think hoods are same also)

    front bumper ends can also be tough.

    hope you can post a picture when you get it

    check out CLC webpage @ www.cadillaclasalle.org

    and the Incredible Cadillac DataBase by Yann Saunders

    follow link of above page then click anywhere in the dark blue to open

    Welcome to the Standard of the World,

    (One Ride and you will wonder WHY you can buy these cheaper than CHEVYS !)

    Tailfin58

    Western Mass

  2. Not sure if these are back up or parking lights,

    Glass lenses are marked GUIDE B2-53.

    Seems these are commonly seen at the swap meets,

    but I just got a pair with a bunch of misc stuff.

    From what I have been told the -53 would indicate the first year used

    but is there any Guide "Guide" to decipher the rest ?

    I find that some 50's Cadillac lenses will have an R-5 before the year, but I also have what I believe are Chevy truck lenses that have a F1A-55 marking ?

    Were guide lenses only OEM on GM products ?

    Thanks for your thoughts,

    Tailfin58

    W confused.gifestern mass

    post-37160-143137896548_thumb.jpg

  3. Dick,

    Looks like your off to an excellent start ! These fascinating and distinctive

    cars are long over due for more attention. Even if they were not so Dramatically

    Styled, just the story behind their existance is interesting enough.

    A suggestion ....since these cars are so few in number, perhaps you could start a "Survivors List" to help other owners or would be restorers see just how many there are left. This might also new owners to trace the prior history of their own particular Hollywood or Skylark.

    I personally know of one 1940 Hollywood Graham (Metallic Green) in The Central Berkshire County area of Western Massachusetts. Perhaps I can get you more info and a picture if I see it at a show this summer.

    In the Cad Laslle Club we are BLESSED to have the New Cadillac Database website

    compiled and maintained by Yann Mr. Cadillac Saunders. With help from spotters and owners around the world they (so far!) have located and enrolled about half of the 704 produced 1957-1960 Cadillac Eldorado Broughams, and have just recently started another Survivors list of the 532 examples of the First Year 1953 Cadillac Eldorados.

    http://www.car-nection.com/yann/Dbas_txt/Brg13a1a.htm

    In any case ilook forward to visiting the site again as more information and photos become available.

    BTW Are you linked off the A-C-D page ?

    John Binder

    Pittsfield, Mass

  4. All advice given is excellent however before Either SMS or Jenkins can help you they will need to know the "TRIM NUMBER" as found on the dataplate under your hood. If you can find a 51 or newer Cadillac Master parts manual you can look up a description of whatever code you find. Perhaps a fellow Cadillac LaSalle Club member might even let you take a peak in his Ultra hard to find Paint and Upholstery Selector Showroom Book. If not both of the companies will probably send you small samples.

    be sure to visit the tech forum of www.cadillaclasalleclub.org

  5. Dear Thom,

    Am just finishing parting out a '59 and have almost EVERYTHING off but the

    heater core. I have it exposed from firewall side, just need to remove heater

    box on inside. This should go quickly as i have removed entire dashboard assy as well.

    I am planning on leaving for Hershey On Tuesday (tomorrow)and

    don't know if you will see this in time.

    My Swapmeet space is [color:\\"red\\"] <span style="font-weight: bold">C2C-72</span>

    I am right on a corner under light pole #21.

    This is in the [color:\\"brown\\"] <span style="font-weight: bold">CHOCOLATE FIELD,</span>

    in back half down towards the footbridge to the new Giant Center.

    I will get this out Tomorrow Morning before I leave.

    if you are NOT attending Hershey send an e-mail to

    tailfinsforever@aol.com and I'll check in when I

    return on Columbus Day Monday

    TFF !

    John Binder

    Western, Mass.

  6. Dear KRK Sr.,

    Are you sure you have the actual PART numbers....

    or do you possibly have CASTING NUMBERS ??????

    They are often NOT the same.

    According to a 1942 Cad Master Parts Book

    that goes back into the 1930's applications:

    The GROUP# for Crankshafts in this 1942 EDITION CAD PARTS manual is 8.0687

    early PART Numbers (not Casting #'s)are

    at first by Model Series, later by year

    345BC,355BC PART NO 1081302

    350 PART NO. 1096967

    355D PART NO. 3500221

    370 (V-12) PART NO. 1096182 AND SAME ALSO USED ON

    1936 SERIES 80,85 & 1937 SERIES 65 WITH ADAPTER #1401181

    452 & 1936-37 SERIES 90 (V-16) PART NO. 1096183

    1935-36 SERIES 50 (LaSalle) PART NO. 1413127

    1936 SERIES 60,70,75 PART NO. 3501606

    1937 SERIES 50,60,65,70,75 PART NO. 3502532

    1938-1941 ALL SERIES, EXCEPT 38-40 SERIES 90 V-16 PART NO. 3507201

    1938-40 SERIES 90 V-16 PART NO. 1423761

    1942 ALL SERIES PART NO. 3507334

    You might contact Cadillac Historical Services

    to see if they have a Casting # to Part # Conversion

    I believe it is linked off the CLC Webpage at

    www.cadillaclasalleclub.org

    Good Luck,

    John Binder

    Western Mass.

  7. George Course an AACA member in NEXT DOOR Vero Beach Fla.

    used to own one of these and several other neat old cars.

    The local Indian River Chapter gave a show at the Saturn Dealership there

    in 1995 or 1996. I actually also lived in Sebastian at that time

    and wish I was back there now instead of freezing up here in Western Mass.

    If George is still around (?) I'm sure he could give you an Idea.

    He was quite a nice guy and ran a golfcart repair business,

    as well as owning the real estate under the local Vero Beach Ford Dealer.

    My favorite memory is of him letting our Sales Manager DRIVE !!!

    (let alone give a ride to)his 192O's Detroit Electric at a very brisk pace

    around our perimeter driveway..... talk about being generous !

    He gave rides to at least a couple dozen kids that day too...

    A Great Ambassador for our Hobby !

    (Are you perhaps considering his ?)

    I don't have ANY IDEA of current value, but one of his buddies

    at the time alluded to a mid 6 figure price even way back then.

    John Binder

    Freezing in Western Mass.

  8. I can't say these are my picks for ALL Car movies but here goes..

    WORST RACING MOVIE....

    definately DAYS OF THUNDER w/ Tom Cruise

    very roughly based on the Tim Richmond AIDS Story

    this sorry flick was an embarrasssment even to the NASACAR Drivers

    that appeared in it....

    BEST RACING MOVIE

    GREASED LIGHTNING With

    Richard Pryor inan early role as ELMO SCOTT

    the only sucessful Black driver thus far in

    NASCAR RACING this one sticks closer to the real story

    and doesen't try to be too PC

    FAVORITE CAR MOVIE

    (A must see for any one thinking of a career in commision retail sales )

    TIN MEN with Danny DeVito and Richard Dreyfus

    as competeing aluminum siding salesmen in 1964 Baltimore.

    Devito's charactor runs His '61 Caddy into Dreyfuses'brand new '64

    as he is backing it out of the showroom....and it takes off from there..

    If you love Tailfin Cadillacs of the 50's and 60's BUY THIS FILM!

    you will keep hitting the pause and rewind buttons to spot them all !

    Its even a great movie about the scams and heartbreaks

    of selling

    anything to make a living. I sold cars for a short time years ago

    and could relate to the "Highs and Lows" of this profession through the movie.

    BTW

    I also liked Christine too, best scene is when Christine

    is caught in the garage explosion and fire surely a goner ,

    but then comes backing out through the inferno

    and races away trailing flames.... awesome !

    Tailfin58

    Western Mass

  9. Gee and I thought my bosses '37 GMC pick-up was rare !

    It goes without saying of course your first step

    is to obtain a 1936 GMC Shop Manual and if you can find one

    an original Parts Manual can also be great help.

    Reproduction Shop manuals are available...

    but treat them gently as they typicaly have poor bindings.

    I feel its worth it to find an original if you can,

    E-bay is the best spot to look.

    Do a search on "gmc +36" to narrow down the choices.

    If you can't find an exact GMC manual a "MOTORS" garage manual

    for Multiple Makes of TRUCKS covering the years around your truck

    would give you the basics.

    These can often be found in the $10 to $25 range if you are patient

    and keep looking, be sure to find one specifically for TRUCKS.

    Also a Copy of Hemmings Motor News...

    "The Bible of The Old Car Hobby" @ www.hemmings.com

    will give you a good list of parts suppliers.

    You may also find help at the American Truck Historical Society

    www.aths.org who maintain a message forum similar to ours.

    Good Luck with your New Truck,

    John Binder

    Western Mass.

  10. Dear Constellation,

    Not sure how far Fairhaven Mass is from NY State...

    But just west of where I am in the Berkshires is

    Bob Adler's Antique Autos in Stephentown NY.

    He is a few miles west of RT 22 and RT 43 Intersection (on Rt 43)

    on left...trust me you will not miss the large field FULL

    of mostly 30's to 60's Chevy and GMC trucks.

    A former cancer research scientist at Dana-Farber Institute,

    he now deals mostly with cancer of the automotive type, as such

    Bob is ALWAYS busy, restoring primarily the "ADVANCE DESIGN"

    Chevy amd G.M.C. trucks, of the Late 1940's to Early 1950's era.

    A phone call is DEFINATELY advised before showing up.

    Check out his website.... www.adlersantiqueautos.com

    Be sure to read his articles "From The Corrosion Lab"

    and his pix of an Original '38 Chevy Suburban He found.

    Hope he has your part !

  11. According to my PPG book

    YES ! but ONLY if they are both hardtops

    without center door roof pillar.

    The NAGS # is W358

    If you can post the STYLE No.s

    of each cars as found on the

    Dataplate under the hood

    riveted to the cowl.

    Then I can confirm this for you.

    The 4dr post sedans have an approx 2"

    taller windsheild than the hardtops.

    The same windsheild was also used on

    particular models of Buicks as well.

    Also be sure the tint (or lack of)

    matches your other windows.

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