Ronney

All, This is Ron, back with an update on my 55 Clipper. Sorry for the delay (military. I fixed the lifter as mentioned, a little pricey on the delivery fees but worth it. The car sounds smooth and quiet. I got with Mr. Fitch a www.ultramaticdynamics.com, I ordered the parts and installed them. Oh! I forgot to mention when I dropped the pan the parts just fell off into the pan. I dropped the trany, cleaned everything I could then installed the Parking Stop Kit I purchased...what a great kit. The car shifts better than ever. I drained the converter and rotated the flywheel 180 out for the vibration. I renistalled the whole mess and she ran extremely well. I had to do all this on my lunch brakes so time was limited. I did not reinstall the starter and check for isolated engine vibrations. Anyway she gets moving very quickly but does not like to shift very smoothly if accelaration is too abrubt. I may need to re-adjust the linkage again. I wanted to say thanks to all for the advise. NOW, my wonderful daughter launched the battery into the radiator and put a huge hole in it. (I know it should be strapped in) She's an okay driver but this one had me stumped. Anybody know of an inexpensive core replacement for a 55' Clipper Custom Constellation? Ron

Rick, I'm sorry I don't know Clem. I pretty much work on my Clipper with only the help of all the forum folks like you. I wish I could get some of those service bulletings the others speak of. Take care Ron

All, I went through the brakes and they all need to be re-padded. After I adjusted the transmission, according to the manual I heard a snap when I pulled it home and put it in park. Now I have drive and reverse only. As I accelerate it makes whining sound now. Anyway I'll tackle that later. I pulled everything off today to attack the horrid lifter tapping. The lifter was frozen and it tore the upper end of the rod up pretty good. Now I have to order one from Kanter. I'm hopeful this fixes the noise. We?ll find out Tuesday. I'll try to work the trany next month or in July. What I'll do is separate it from the engine and see if it?s vibrating there. Lets back up...I?ll drop the pan first and look over the linkage. Standby for updates and keep the advice coming, it?s much needed. Ron

All, Thanks for the advise again. While I changed the oil to a 20w the tapping lifter still persists. I have ordered lifters for it. I will probably take it and drop the trany and inspect it. Especially after I went through the manual and readjusted all carburator and tramsission linkages. Now I get no Park...the car will roll down hill, while off and in Park. I hear little clicking. I can't find nuetral and reverse is now harder than ever to find. PLAN of ATTACK: Check flywheel and Torque converter Clean the filters and adjust anything I can with the pan off. It had a new converter from Kanter installed by the previous owner. Unfortunately there are so many little things wrong with it it's scary. I was checking the brakes and the rt rear wheel cylinder push rod was totally off. I'm just venting becuase I like the car and good help in San Antonio is nearly impossible to find. I'll keep you all posted as I go. Ron

Sorry it took so long to get back to you folks helping me with the Clipper. I will try the oil for the lifters before I replace any of them. Funny thing, I met an older gentleman that said Packard?s love 20W motor oil and anything else makes them sick. He suggested I try straight 20w before I do anything else. I heard 318 lifters will fit the 352 engine? As for the vibration, it occurs in park at idle and while driving. The guys who balanced my drive shaft first clued me in. It is more noticeable at speeds above 40 mph. However, it will shake your teeth out at idle when rev?d up as well as above 40. I was reading my manual and I believe your correct, its probably the governor. I was contemplating a flush instead of filter change...Any recommendations between the two since she is older? Another question, would you recommend any of the Kanter reupholstery kits for this car? Ron

Vacuum check valve, BTW...When I rebuilt the Carb, the vacuum check valve was previously drilled out. there was no ball and spring that I am use to seeing in typical check valves. Any clues on where I can get one? Ron

Brain, Thanks for the words. The computer crumpled on me and I just took awhile getting it fixed. I got the carburetor rebuilt for my 55 Packard Clipper Custom Constellation. She runs much better now. I have one lifter ticking and I still have pretty good vibration in the engine when idling. When on the road, she gets a pretty good harmonic vibe going. Drive shaft is balanced. My thinking is to rotate the torque converter 90 degrees. Also to run it without the trany connected. All these were previous bits of advice. Any advice on adjusting the trans linkages so she shifts on her own. Right now I take her to third manually. Also when in third and I go to stop she wants to die out like it can?t down shift?????????? Ron

All, Thanks for the inputs fella's. I purchased a rebuild kit from NAPA yesterday and it will be here in a few days. I'll rebuild, then attack each hose with conviction and the inspection procedures I'm know for in the military. Anything that is suspicious will be repaired or replaced. Unfortunately in San Antonio no one I have contacted works on these. As for the vibration mentioned, it did get worse when we messed with the carb but as drove it, it was far less. It may be combination of things but carb first, distributor next, then brakes, and finally vibrations if they still occur. I can't thank you guys enough for the advice. Ron

Brain, I initially felt like the brakes worked real well then they seemed a little less responsive. I'll check the fittings and hoses again, especially to the brakes. I think I'll try the NAPA kit, it may be from the same source as KANTER's. It's $21.00 compared to $55.00. I know, what cheap-skate... Thanks, I'l keep you posted. Ron

Brian, Ooops, As far as the comment "Any Thoughts", I was referring to a Kanter carburetor rebuild kit or a NAPA kit. I don't want to spend more money than necessary/ pay for a cheap rebuild kit then buy another later. Ron

Brian, Thanks, I'll order up a rebuild kit. NAPA Auto Parts actually carries one as well. Any thoughts? As far as leaks go; I can hear the vacuum leak when I push on the brakes, it has hissing noise. The noise sounds like a modern power steering pump at the turn limit. However, the brakes are not applied when at idle, does this make sense or should a get out my carb cleaner and spray around under the dash as well? As I mentioned in an earlier string, the vacuum advance is caked with JB weld or some type of epoxy. My thoughts are to rebuild the carb, reset everything, and then see what happens. If she still doesn't work then purchase a rebuilt distributor and lastly work the brakes. BTW, some older gentleman had me take off the vacuum line to the reservoir inside the fender and she had very little vacuum. The gentleman said it should be very strong and it wasn't... Got to Work, the Air Force may yell at me. Ron

Brian, Thanks for the advice, I took my car to the military auto hobby shop and messed with the carb. We base-lined the linkage adjustments however, she was a little hot and the choke was a little hard to set. After we were finished she wouldn?t run at all. We stuck a timer on her got her started; reset the timing and so on. Bottom line, when running, it actually ran better with my hand over the secondary valves. I took my hand off and we sprayed carb cleaner on every hose imaginable and all around carb. No change, she was still rough and now seamed to be missing. I unplugged the vacuum line from the distributor and then readjusted the timing. She ran better but still missed and surged a little. I pulled it out of the shop and she kept dieing. I re-plugged the distributor vacuum line and then she surged even more but I got her home. An amazing thing happened, she had power to spare and did not hesitate in the least when I gave it the gas. Right now I feel I need to either rebuild the carb (cheapest) or replace the distributor (still convincing my wife this is fun)... The damn thing still sticks in Park, this kills me. P.S. I just went out to start her the following day. I adjusted the choke to the index center and she started on the first lick with no pumping, priming or anything. Bad news, as she warmed up then the choke opened up more and more till finally she died out and stopped running. Scratch, Scratch??????? Ron

Thanks Brain, I'm working al those issue every chance I get. the carburator is a bit suspect especially since it and the diributor have JB weld on them to seal some leaks. I'm taking it in to our military hobby shop to give it the once over for two days. I'm removing the trans form the engine then starting it to see if she stil vibrates. If so then a compression check. Also I am readjusting the carb as described in the manual then checking the trans linkage while running on the lift. I found the timing off by about 20 degrees after I first got her... A lot of work involved.

Thanks, It was late and I thought I was under the Packard Forum. I have alot to learn about forums. I definatel have to fix the car by December or mom says she is gone... Ron Isham

Thanks for the information. As for the shifter it sticks in Park and when in drive, it is not aligned properly. I do not have push button shifting, thank God. No one here in San Antonio can even balance the drive shaft, they do not have the adapter. It vibrates at idle and when reving it up or increasing in speed. Funny, it is real smooth when assending long hillS. Ron