Mr.Pushbutton
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Posts posted by Mr.Pushbutton
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That's the stock daddy. I don't have one, but I've seen them in the accessory catalogue, and on a few cars.
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I think you might find this plumbing nightmare in a vintage JC Whitney catalog with the legend attached: "increases __________ by 22%, improves resale value by X %. Another sure sign Billy Bob and Cooter were there: Ford Blue engine paint. I am hearing the "Hee Haw" theme in my head now.
Hey Grandpa, what's for supper?
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The intention of my post was that I use epoxy primer ONLY as a primer, and that the K-36 filler-sandable product is the filler. You are correct, Epoxy primer does not sand easily, and will ball up and clog the paper.
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Is that a metal trunk or leather? It's so beat up I can't tell from the photo.
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We used Ditzler DP90 epoxy primer at the shop I worked at, great stuff. Buy the very best resperator you can--this product wil cause irreparable kidney damage if breathed in any concentration. We used to brush it on freshly stripped engine blocks, inside and out, and it prevented re-rusting before the engine was ready to paint. After the engine was assembled and the sensitive parts masked, we would shoot the whole thing again with DP-90, then engine color (usually Concept 2000) the next day. It is excellent to use as a "binder" on freshly stripped body metal, before body filler to fill in pitting. To me, it makes far more sense that putting body filler on bare metal. For fine body work we would shoot K-36 sandable primer on, a great product that you can "build" in coats, then sand flat. I would recommend staying in the manufacturers "family" of products, that is don't use the primer of one manufacturer, and the color coat of another. That can lead to "Oh S___! do overs if they chemically fight.
Remember, there's no such thing as overspray...........the correct term is "undermask". John
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Another source for club badges is JRBoutell company. His website page for these large Cloisonne emblems is http://www.jrboutell.com/large.html . His quality is excellent, and he would be happy to quote your club (or event's) badge or lapel pin needs. Competition is good. J
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FWIW, Corvette parts maven and Packard collector Neal Porter makes/sells prebent stainless brake lines for '51-'56 Packard/Clipper cars. They are slick, pop right in, and are stainless. His business is Vette products of Michigan. Phone number is 248-693-1907, ask for Neal.
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Lionel trains used those mechanical (thermal) time delay devices going back to the 1930's.
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If I may just add a couple of things to Rick L's good advice--most sending units are 0-90 ohm variable resistors. If you have a good Ohm meter you can check by putting one probe on the body of the sender and the other probe on the insulated screw. with the float hanging all the down you should see around 90 ohms. lift the float all the way up and it should read close to zero ohms. The sending unit is usually at fault, but to make sure you can ground the wire going to the sending unit (away from the open tank) with the ignition on-- the gas gauge should read "full". If you bend the toy tabs on the resistor housing make sure to heat them first, so they don't snap off. As Albert mentioned, you can sand the two pieces of the broken brass contact strip and resolder. use a fine grade emerey or scotchbrite (NEVER steel wool) and use some rosin core solder, just a little, no big blobs. The advice about the ground wire added to the sending unit is excellent--you can't go wrong with that. She 'oughta work then.
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Stuart, HI!, your Laurel and Hardy loving 1956 Packard 400 owning friend from Detroit here (Hey STELLAaaaaaaa!). Ross Roy was a large PR/industrial film/radio and print media firm employed by many Detroit based auto makers. They went out of business in the 70's, I believe. John
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Bill, For what it's worth, I did a google search on Lehigh, both as "Lehigh air conditioning" and "Lehigh referigeration" and there is almost nothing out there. The Lehigh company went away in about 1964, and sold off the compressor line to a company that is also gone. If we get enough of us together maybe we can have parts made...........LOL! John
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Joe, I have a '56 salesman's book which lists options, and a small (original) pamphlet of 1956 accessories. If I get a chance, I'll scan the pages. Years ago we had a guy in our local PAC chapter with a very nice '55 400. He went on a rampage buying everything in that pamphlet and fastening it to his car. It was truly what the bikers call a "full dress garbage can". He called the accessories "Niffy-naps", which to this day makes me cringe. John
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OK gang, go to http://www.northcountryradio.com/Kitpages/am88.htm that is a 12V low power transmitter, He claims he has sold many for use in antique cars. Owners of 6V cars will need an inverter, as listed on other posts on this thread. The cost is $82.50, which isn't bad. Get 'U a MP3 player and load 'er up and away you go. That way you won't have to listen to sports talk,and talk,and talk--Rush Limbaugh or "the music of someone else's life" (and they had bad taste in music!)
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Packard V8--good job getting A/C in a non A/C car. I like the fact that you used the Sanden compressor--they are a terrific design. I wonder if anyone out there has adapted a 60's-70's vintage GM Harrison compessor to an otherwise factory AC car? that compressor in my mind was the perfect machine. GM had that system perfected, the best couplings and a bulletproof compressor, and in their annoying GM way did away with it all in the early 80's to the newer (NFG) design. The old systems from 60's & 70's would hold a charge forever. It's somewhat suprising that Packard did not use the GM Harrison system, in light of the other components they bought from GM divisions. That Compressor was in GM cars from '53-on.
I have the factory set up on my car, and don't know a lot about the Lehigh compressor, but it is more compicated than the GM or Sanden models, and relies on a rotating seal, the opposing faces of which are lapped, to maintain a seal. The Lehigh "V-2" Compressor was used for years as the compressor for refrigerated deli cases. I've been to a lot of Packard meets, and believe me, I check out every V-8 I see, and I have not seen many "as built" restorations with nice cold air. I have seen Bob Fordyce's (sp?) outstanding '56 Patrician, truly a high water mark in post-war restoration (for once not on a Carribean). He has the original system, and I understand it works. With R-12 now at "liquid gold" prices (and being stolen/sold by organized crime) it's daunting to think what it will take to get my system up and running, reliably holding a charge. I'm not at all offended by your system, as the car was not AC equipped originally. The evap core/blower box looks like Mark VI, which many mid 50's cars had added after the fact. Looking at my car, It would be a total pain in the A__ to add the factory system to a car that wasn't built with it. John
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Trimatic--you mention a "tired" shift motor not going into detents all the way. I fixed a pushbutton unit on a Carribean conv. where the actuator would shift fine to certain gears, but blow the 30A breaker when switched to others. I figured out quickly that the problem was directional--it was Ok going CW, but required a much more torque to turn CCW. I discovered the grease inside the worm and sector section of the actuator had turned into a "non-lubricant" the consistency of bubble gum. I removed the shift motor (carefully) and was then able to remove the entire shift actuator, one piece at a time (It's a huge job to R&R the shift actuator as an assembly). I made a sketch showing the proper order of the various parts on the worm gear shaft, dissassembled the works, cleaned them of all hardened former-lube, re-coated the parts with new, fresh light grease and put 'er back together. It got happy in a hurry.It's been working fine since.
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Brian, you might just be on to something re: the mp3 player/low power transmitter. I have a "modulator" 10 disc sony CD changer in my daily driver, and it's the bomb. It would just be a matter of having a suitable AM modulator circuit. I'm going to google this, someone may already be doing it. John
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you can send the original vacuum motor to Ficken auto in (I think) New york state. The'll go through it and make 'er as good as new. 55 Chebby had an optional electric wiper motor, that took the place of an almost identical (to Packard) Vac unit, but one would have to part with mucho dinero to get one of those--prices that would make a Packard man wince!
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Great News! now we're all happy!
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I'm all for dot-5. I worked for a big time collector who had many 30's-40's-50's and 60's cars, and we converted many of them to silicone brake fluid with outstanding results. We had cars that were frame-up restored 15 years ago, with Dot-5 brakes, and every time we pulled them out of the museum to show, the brakes were ready. No problems. Use all new rubber components, you may find a modern cylinder with the proper dimensioned "innards" you need. As with all new wheel cylinders, clean all the anti-corrosion goo from the metal and rubber parts (It's there to prevent corrosion in shipment/storage)and coat the parts with the type of fluid you will be using. If you are not replacing the hard brake lines, flush the old Dot-3 out of the lines by plugging the ends (@ each axle) and fill the system with denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner, overnight (or longer). drain the system and blow out the lines with compressed air. Use new flex hoses. Bleed the brakes with slow,steady strokes--don't have your "pedal pumper" hammer up and down quickly on the pedal when building pressure (as you would with Dot-3).
That will induce air bubbles every time, and make the job of bleeding eternal.
If you do all this, you'll be good to go for decades to come.
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Does anyone have a car made in the 50's that doesn't leak? All fluids (except maybe engine oil)???
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Check to see if the car had a braided ground strap originally. If so, you can find a replacement at a good auto electric shop. They are capable carrying more current (amperage) than a round cable (unless the round cable is BIG). If that's what it had, that's what it needs. JL
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I restored a '48 Dodge sedan, and found Andy Birnbaum had many parts I was looking for, and was easy to deal with. You can find his phone/address in Hemmings
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Well, the brothers made their entree into the automobile business through Henry Ford (a notorious anti-Semite), and if the brothers were Jewish (they were not), old man Ford probably would not have done business with them. This one has gone into "urban legend" territory, unfortunately.
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Vacuum leak?
My Spring has Sprung
in Packard
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restoration supply in Pennsylvania has about 18 gazillion different types of those springs in stock. If you send them a photocopy (indicate thickness) they can match it up.