Andy Ott

A friend recently identified a pair of front hubs I’ve had for a while as “Metz.” A little Googling shows that’s probably correct. These front hubs are for 12-spoke wooden wheels, appear to use 24” tires though none of the wooden felloes remain. Hub caps appear to be steel, 8-sided, measure 2” across flats, externally threaded about 2 3/4” across. I'm seeking to learn the year and Model of these hubs, so they maybe end up useful to somebody in the future. Thanks andrewott@aol.com

I am not very familiar with 1924 cars, and think they would be quite a bit different from my 1917. I’m still looking for help with the woodwork dimensions for my 1927 touring car, but am moving forward, and think I’ll be able to pretty much figure it out from what remains.

Some time ago, there was a suggestion for a group or roster of Dodge DA owners, car type, numbers, etc Is there such a group out there? I've had DAs since the 1970s, and am now getting back to my DA phaeton project. My body sheetmetal and chassis are about done, but I still have a lot of questions. I'm totally without the top bows or irons. I have lots of other questions, and would like to get into a group of DA owners is there is still one out there. Andy Ott andrewott@aol.com

I'm rebuilding an engine fore my Model T. its a nice engine with little wear. Standard mains and rod bearings, looks generally like a low mileage engine. My problem is that mGnigafluxing reveals a crack as shown in the photo. It is not in the journal area, and is invisible to the eye even with 10x magnification. The crankshaft "rings" without any hint of a problem. My question is whether this is a BIG problem or no big deal. I've asked several locals who work on automomobile engines, and get responses all over the field. The car is intended to be a locally drivable restoration, with no added power features or intent of long trips or high speed. any thoughts appreciated. Since it's an engine with little wear overall, I'd like to keep it as original as I can. Thanks.

Is there a currently active roster of cars and owners for the 1916/17 Studebakers, Series 16, 17 and 18? I think in the later 1980s or early 1990s there was such a roster, but I am not aware of anything beyond that or anything current today. These cars are becoming more popular as time goes on, as judged from what I see in the Antique Studebaker News. I've been working on mine since the mid-1970s, but am finally devoting the time and effort required to get the project moving again. It would be interesting to see who the other owners are, share information, correspond on some of the questions I have, possibly scare up some of parts I still need, and hopefully share some of the extra items I have that others might need. Any information would be appreciated. If no such active roster exists, I would be more than willing to take that project myself. Andy Ott

After about forty years of working on my 1917 Studebaker 6-cyl touring car, I'm finally addressing the body work. I'm trying to figure out the original body colors. What I've found out is that although the 1916 Series 16 and Series 17 cars seem to have only come in "Gunmetal Gray," the 1917 Series 18 cars came in various colors. Otherwise, the three seies were quite similar. A few late Series 18 ads mention "Available in colors" but do not mention what the colors actually are. Does anyone have any information on this? My preference would be to paint my car a nice Forest Green, but I don't have any idea what this would look like. Andy Ott

After about forty years of working on my 1917 Studebaker 6-cyl touring car, I'm finally addressing the body work. I've got very good sheetmetal, but most of the body frame wood pieces are either missing, rotted, or beyond measuring. This is a pretty common problem with bodies found in eastern Washington/Oregon, where steel doesn't rust much but dry-rot destroys the wood. So I'm wondering if anyone out there has been down this path? Has anyone made drawings, or maybe have any usable patterns? Maybe someone has a car without upholstery and the wordwork showing? The most critical wood is a pair of body frame members that start at the front of the cowl and go all the way to the back of the car. I could work with drawings, sketches, or photographs and a few strategic measurements. I live in Virginia Beach VA, but travel to Denver CO pretty frequently. I'd love to photograph and measure a similar car, while meeting a new Studebaker friend.

I'm restoring a 1927 Model T Ford commercial vehicle (on a T, not TT chassis). Been working on it for a dozen years now. In trying to install the steering column, I find that the steering column bracket at the bottom of the steering column does not fit into the frame - the angle is wrong. I have the correct commercial firewall/dash (3634-L as shown on the 1928 Ford Parts List), a correct 1927-27 frame, and a correct 1926-27 steering column. In looking at the Ford Parts List of 1928 (showning all the 1926-27 changes) I see that there is a special steering column bracket for the 1926-27 Fordor and Chassis, numbered 3539E. Although the 1926-27 Ts take a different bracket (3539D) than the earlier cars (3539B), it appears that the right one for the Fordor and chassis has a different bracket even from that. So now, to move forward on my car, I'm in search for a 3539E bracket. I don't even know what I'm looking for - what is different about it from the "regular" 1926-27 steering bracket? Any ideas or help would be appreciated. Andy Ott

I have had this headlight bar for years, wondering what it is for/from. It's high quality construction, 38 3/4 long overall.

I've been into DAs for many years, had several, and currently working on a phaeton. Would like to be included. Andy Ott andrewott@aol.com

7-ML-103420-ML-<br /><br />Moved to the Tech Forum. RWB

I'm working on the fuel systems for several antique car projects, and they are all coming down to the same problem - where can I get the float-type sending units for these fuel tanks? Where can I get compatible gages that work with the 6-volt electrical systems? My current projects are 1929 Dodge DA (about 6" deep tank); 1928 Stutz (about 9" deep tank); and 1927 Marmon (about 14" deep tank). All these tanks have separate fuel line connections, so the sending units don't require a line connection, so they are pretty simple. I recognize that any currently available sending units probably mount with the standard SAE 5-screw flange, and thoat would be fine, since I'll probably have to make an adaptor plate no matter what I do. Where can I get the dimensioned drawing for the standard SAE mount? Unfortunately most of the websites I've checked have repalcements for more modern tanks, but nowhere can I find the simple old-fashioned float-type senders. Help me at andrewott@aol.com

I would be great if AACA would do this. It would apply to many things, such as a catalog of hubcaps and applications, or wire wheels, the list is endless.

I am trying to restore my 1933 Pontiac Sport Coupe to its original beauty, and need some help with paint and trim codes. The firewall plates says "Body No. T 200", "Trim No. 10" and Paint No. 64". Does anyone know what these numbers relate to or translate to in terms of colors? Please reply to andrewott@aol.com with any help or ideas. Thanks.

I am trying to restore my 1933 Pontiac Sport Coupe to its original beauty, and need some help with paint and trim codes. The firewall plate says "Body No. T 200", "Trim No. 10" and Paint No. 64". Does anyone know what these numbers relate to or translate to in terms of colors? Please reply to andrewott@aol.com with any help or ideas. Thanks.

I recently got hold of a nice chassis and would like to build it into an authentic coupe. Is there a coupe body out there, that maybe came from a parts car? Or a rough or incomplete coupe that needs a lot of TLC? Please respond to andrewott@aol.com Thanks.

I've been looking for a long time for a 1931 Chrysler CD 8 to restore. I could even use just a body, since I have a decent chassis. Andy help or leads? Please e-mail to andrewott@aol.com Thanks.

I bought this Remy Electric Co. Model 203-O 6-cyl distributor thinking it fit my 1917 Studebaker, but it does not fit. Does anyone out there know what it DOES fit? I would like to get it into the hands of someone who needs it. Does anyone have a book or resource that shows what Remy distributors fit which cars (interested in teh teens and twenties).

I have a desparate need for a set of intake and exhaust mainfolds for a 1916 4-cyl Studebaker. I think the 1917 cars were the same. Any help or leads would be appreciated. Please respond to white8042@aol.com Thanks.

Try looking on the outboard side of the left front frame, right above the left front spring hanger rear spring shackle. There should be an aluminum plate there with the number embossed from the back.

I have a desparate need for an intake manifold and an exhaust manifold for a 1916 - 1917 Studebaker 4-cyl car. I have everything else for this car which I have been tinkering with for 30 years, but can't go much further without these. Any help or leads would be appreciated. Please respond to white8042@aol.com Thanks

Does anyone know of a source for application data for Remy distributors? I have a few early ones I have bought thinking they would fit my 1917 Studebaker, and they don't. I would now like to get them into the hands of people who could use them, but don't know what they are correct for. I also need to know what is/are the right Remy distributors for 1916 - 1917 Studebaker. I can't find a listing of what cars take what distributors - and the reverse - anywhere. Please respond to white8042@aol.com Thanks.

I bought this Remy Electric Co. Model 203-O 6-cyl distributor thinking it fit my 1917 Studebaker, but it does not fit. Does anyone out there know what it DOES fit? I would like to get it into the hands of someone who needs it. white8042@aol.com