Buttons

Well I went under the distributor cap and i had already gone to autozone for a replacement point, but it looks totally different. I did however replace the rotor and the cap. how do you check timing? Finally figured out how to post a pic, so heres one of the car -Buttons

I have syphoned out the old fuel and I do believe that if fuel sits for a year or so without the engine running it rots and becomes damaging. I put new fuel in it and added lead substitute to play it safe for the pads and such. I dont think I want to trust the additives because they say unleaded fuel only and the fuel I burn has lead substitute.

Should this come Before or after I replace wiring and tubing and do a carb rebuild? or does it make little difference? Thanks -Buttons

So I'll say that from all that is said here I should First add some STP to the gas (Its using lead substitute as well is this gonna be problematic?). Then run that tank of gas through. Second I replace all, as in every single one of, the Tubes and wires. Thirdly I rebuild the carb. Fourth I have an air leak test done.. Does this sound in the right order? Are we missing anything? thanks again -Buttons P.S. :This is such a great, albeit expensive, way to learn about cars

I see some gas squirting , but I think I'm gonna go through with a carb rebuild then anyway. Now the accelerator pump, is that a part of the carb or is that something else? Thanks -buttons

Finally Its running! I am very excited and can't wait till it not only runs but when I can get it to run well with consistency and reliability. I changed out All of the Plugs, the boots, the distributor cap, rotor, battery, oil and oil filter . So heres what is still wrong with it as far as I can tell. The motor has trouble starting and usually takes several tries and then a rest period (including some starter fluid) and then it will start up; if I'm in luck. Now when It runs It has a bad time accelerating, and it will quit. its gone nearly around the block but it crapped out halfway through and we had to pop start it. Any Ideas as to what is wrong and what is left to do. Its a 1964 Buick LeSabre With a Wildcat 310 on it, and that has a rochester some thing or other 2 barrel carbeurator on it. I think It is all original equipment. Any good ideas or advice are appreciated thanks -Buttons

How do I determine if the engine needs a rebuild? I'm also consisdering carb problems here... But I dont know that much about cars to understand what most consider the basics. I want to learn and thats why i have the car and also why I am here. So... what do i need to do then and how... thanks for your patience -Buttons

Okay then.... heres what is going on so far. I got the engine to run about 3 times or so. The oil light still comes on (how long does it Take before the oil has made all of its rounds?) I got the new distributor cap halfway on with much work and distress. After letting the engine idle a bit I let her move down the driveway a bit. I put accelerated a bit and the engine quit on me. I think there is a carbeurator problem. I am going to have to Rebuild the Carb. I dont know whats the better Idea in this case, should I try and Rebuild the Carb, or just go out there and buy what I need To put a 4 barrel on it ? How do I post pictures I just took a ton of them? thanks -Buttons

Okay here is what I've done so far... I replaced the flat with a spare, Did some grinding to eliminate rust and then primed, I am having difficulty removing the chrome, I want to re-chrome that eventually how do i get them off? Under the hood so far I have replaced the battery, changed out spark plugs, oiled the cylinders, and put in new ones. Ive also put in new boots for the plugs. I have added a new rotor and Im having a heck of a time trying to put a new distributor cap on, What is the tactic here? (after putting in a couple new plugs I sprayed some carb cleaner and some starter fluid into the carburator and tried to start it and it went for a second or two i tired after but it wont work. im replacing gas and oil, gas is still being siphoned was that a bad idea?)

I got it over here finally... I set to work replacing the flat(dry rot) with a spare (soon to be) and I also went ahead and changed the Oil. I'm planning on getting the old gas out but I dont know the best way. The engine is a 310 wildcat for sure now, and i dont know what that means in the ways of performance (if you could tell me it would be appreciated). Ive got the carb. exposed. What do I try next to get the thing to run?

Well at first I was of the impression that it would be fast, and then a friend of mine said they were boats and would need almost 900 horses not to be a joke. I said I was going to fix it up anyways and then see what can be made of it besides the classic car shows. I'm glad to know that it's not out of reach to get this thing going. I live in Ballwin MO. right now, but Bessie (LeSabre) is being towed to my place tomorrow all the way from my grandparents in Bellfountain neighbors. Perhaps you could lend me a hint as to where all the Buick guys are around here and where the common meeting places are Smartin. All the car fanatics that I know of are VW fans and Hondas. I thought I was the only guy around driving an american car for a while, and I thought I'd be the only guy that would try to get serious about them as well. -Buttons

I have pictures on my computer and I was actually trying to post one of underhood conditions, but the file size is too big. I dont exactly know what kind of body a pillar is but to the best of my memory it is a hardtop. I know that this car is a boat but is there a fairly easy way to make it faster? Even though its not first on my priority list it could be some handy info.... -Thanks for all the support! I'll post again once i've moved it and tell you how it all goes. -Buttons

Thank you much I will start my new hobby soon and hopefully i wont somehow manage to blow myself up! soon i'll be asking how much i'll end up spending on this car, not yet though...... thanks once more.

Well I was not planning on driving the car to my location but using a flatbed truck. It is midwest, St. Louie to be exact. Missouri can be a little humid. All four tires are flat as a side note and another reason I don't plan on driving it just yet. I may have made that mistake though. Do I need to check all of this before towing it?

My very first priority right now is to get the buick moved to where I am living presently, then I would like to get everything under the hood to look and run like new (or as close as possible). I will confront the public appearance part later after I have straightened out the actual mechanics. Only trouble is I don't know the mechanics involved or the tools I need. I dont know how plausible it is to make a LeSabre go fast, but either way it comes second to fixing the entire vehicle, and the original engine as a part of that. So what I really wanted to know is what I need to check for, how to do so, and how to fix it. I really appreciate your helpful information, and I am going to apply it hopefully when I go to get it this weekend. I will in fact go and buy what I can in the way of oil and the oil filter. Exactly what else will I need to do this? (and yes I am <span style="font-weight: bold">VERY</span> new to this, but that does not mean that I'm not determined to go all the way with this.) Thank you yet again for the information, and your very kind advice. -Buttons