kilkm

Thanks for all the detailed info, I appreciate it. I know the later model nailhead engines eliminated the draft tube and used the PCV system. Could I just use a valley cover not equipped with a draft tube and valve covers off a newer engine that are set up for a PCV valve and run the line to the Carb. or are the older engines that were set up with the draft tube specificaly designed to vent the crankcase from the rear of the engine through the draft tube? Seems the easiest solution would to be use the valley and valve covers off of a newer engine.

I have a '62 Electra Convertible with the 401 engine. I've noticed a few times while curising in the summertime with the top down, exhause fumes, fairly strong at times. The only source of these fumes I can think of is the draft tube since the car has a new exhaust system. I've seen a custom valley cover from Mooneyes for Buick Nailheads that does not appear to be set up for a draft tube. The car has chrome valve covers on it with breather caps on both sides but no place for a PCV valve. I'm wondering if I replaced the valley cover with one not set up for a draft tube, would the duel breather caps provide adequate crankcase ventilation, or would I need valve covers set up for a PCV valve? The engine is already equipped with a modern Edelbrock performer carb. Anyone have any thoughts on this, I've never owned an engine with one of these draft tubes.

I have a '62 Electra Convertible with the 401 engine. A few times I've noticed while cruising with the top down in the summer, exhaust fumes, fairly strong at times. The car has a new exhaust system, and the only source of the fumes I can think of is the draft tube. I've seen custom valley covers for these engines that do not have a hole in them for the draft tube. The engine has chrome valve covers on it, each side has a breather cap, but no place for a PCV valve. I'm wondering if I replaced the valley cover with a custom unit that is not set up for a draft tube, would the duel breather caps proved adequate crankcase ventilation, or would I also have to replace the valve covers with a set that are set up for a PCV valve? Engine is already equipped with a modern Edelbrock performer carb. Anybody have thoughts on this, I've never owned an engine before that has one of these draft tubes.

I finally got around to installing a set of gauges in my '62 Electra with a 401 4V engine. As I suspected this motor is running hot when idling in traffic. Cruising down the highway it's reading about 190 degrees, which I assume is about right. The problem occurs at idle. After taking it for a ride I let it idle in the driveway for about 15 minutes and watched the temp gauge go clear up to 230 degrees before I shut it down. It was and extremely hot day, about 95 degrees and the car was sitting in the sun idling. I had just changed the oil (10W 30) and flushed the cooling system. Instead of a 50/50 water anti freeze mix, I used a product called "water wetter", distilled water and about 1/2 gallon of anti freeze. This product is suppose to make your engine run up to 20 degrees cooler. I used this same combo in my 95 Le Sabre work car and it does run a little cooler than it used to so I am assuming thats not the problem. I also have a 7 blade clutch fan on this engine to provide additional cooling. I checked cooling system to make sure I had got it refilled properly and that was not the problem. Thinking about replacing or just removing the thermostat and see what it does. Anyone have temp gauge on a 401? Wondering what normal operating temp is at idle and at cruising speed. I do use this car in parades and demo's that require extended idling in summer conditions. Also take it on road trips of several hundred miles. Like to hear any ideas or comments on this matter.

Today I tried to order some replacment front shocks for my 62 Electra. The book the guy had at the NAPA store went back to 62 but only listed shocks for the Invicta. I thought they must be the same, does anybody know for sure?

The 401 Nailhead in my 62 Electra starts and runs flawlessly. However when I first start the engine a couple of the tappets are a little noisy for the first few seconds. When I bought this car it had pure synthetic oil in it, but the stuff was so thin it would go through a quart every 200 miles or so. I replaced the oil with conventional 10W30 and it cut the oil consumption dramatically but now I have the tappet noise. It quiets right down after a few seconds but it bothers me. Should I consider an additive such as slick 50 or bad idea? Not really sure how many miles on this engine. Speedo says 91,000 but when I bought the car I was told it had only 2000 miles on it since restoration. Don't know if that included full or partial engine rebuild. It also seems to have an awful lot of condensation from the exhaust when its first started. I know all cars have a little when their first started, But I have puddles of water out the duel exhaust when I let it warm up in the drive. Is this unusual or common with these engines, just wondering.

Thanks Christopher,it turned out just to be the electrical connection on the switch. They work fine now!

I've discovered my brake lights aren't working on my '62 Electra after getting it out of storage this year. Fuse is OK, and the turn signals work. From the electrical diagrams it appears the turn signal and brake light are the same bulb so I'm figuring it must be the switch. I thought the switch would be somewhere near the top of the brake pedal under the dash but I don't see one. On a parts sight I see they sell a "hydro-electric stop switch". Is this the switch that probably needs replaced and is it located somewhere under the master cylinder? Anyone know or ever had to replace one of these?? Any other ideas or comments would be appreciated. Thanks; kilkm

I know Buick discontinued the 401 and 425 Nailheads in '66 and '67 saw a new engine design. I know they came out with the 430 C.I.D. but did they also introduce 350 and 400 C.I.D. engines in 1967?

The other day working on my '62 Electra I accidently shorted the battery terminals across with a wrench. There was a big pop and spark. I went to start the car today and there is no response when I turn the key. Headlights are bright and horn works. The idiot lights come on when key is turned to on but when you turn it to start it does nothing. There is a small silver box that the positive battery cable goes to that the wires that go to the starter are connected to. Is this a starter relay switch that may have been fried? Any fuses I could check? I would appreciate any suggestions.

I'd like to do a little research on my car but am not sure how to begin. With the VIN and other serial numbers on the car is it possible to find out the date of manufacture and the assembly plant? Maybe even the dealership that sold it? I know nothing about the history of the car but would really like to find out anything I can. Also, is there anyplace that reproduces build sheets or reproductions of invoices showing options and prices at the time the vehicle was new. I'm talking about 1962. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

I've never had the opportunity to see a nailhead engine apart but was told by someone that nailhead engines(the early ones anyway) had a hemispherical head design. Is that true and does anyone know of a site where I could see pictures of a nailhead torn down?

No, it's a metal flake burgandy with a cream colored top, really, really pretty. Thanks for the input.

A fellow showed me a 1953 Super Riviera he has the other day. This car is truely a #1 restoration, beautiful 2 tone paint, wire wheels, beautiful interior and the engine and engine bay look like they just rolled off the assembly line. The car has won many trophies. The owner told me he is tired of the car show circuit and ready to sell the car. He said I could drive it home for $15K. Looks well worth the price to me but I have no Idea what these cars are worth. Does that sound like a reasonable price or is that a little high?

The speedometer in my 62 Electa broke recently and I've been able to find a nice replacement off ebay for a decent price. Anyone ever tear one of these out of the dash before? Just wondering if anyone had any advice or tips before I start, hope it's not too complicated!

I need a speedometer for a 62 Electra. There is one on ebay out of a 62 LeSabre. Does any one know if these 2 models used the same speedometer in 62?

A couple of days ago while driving my 62 Electra Convertible home from a show the speedometer started bouncing around erratically then locked all the way to the right past 120. I had to drive it home with the safety buzzer squealing. I disconnected the cable at the transmission and at the speedometer and spun it with a drill. Cable turns fine in both directions so I assume the speedometer unit itself is messed up. Anyone know how to fix this or where I could get the unit rebuilt? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

The gas tank on my 62 Electra recently started to leak. After inspecting it I discovered the previous owner had applied some sort of epoxy patch on a small hole in the bottom of the tank. After draining the tank and cleaning and sanding the area I'm considering different options. The hole is the size of a nail head and I really don't want to take the tank off to repair it. Looks like it has never been off of the car and I'm afraid I'll start snapping off bolts. Someone told me a product called JB Weld that is suppose to work on fuel tanks. Has anyone used this product or have any opinions?

I recently purchased a Chrome Tissue dispenser for my 62 Electra Convertible on ebay. It arrived in perfect condition, in original box, never installed with the mounting instructions. It is however missing the adapter plate and pin to attach it to the dash. Anyone have an idea where I could find this item?