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CrestaMan

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Posts posted by CrestaMan

  1. Hi all,

    I thought you all may be interested in the continuing saga of me and my Scimitar verses the Company penpushers..

    In october 2003 our Dutch parent compay withdrew funding for the UK division and we went down the pan. Taking my redundancy money I set up my own firm WITh my Scimitar as the company car (Company car drivers had the cars taken away and were left starnded). My customers allways want to talk about the car first and it has even pulled in work I probably would not have got otherwise.

    She is now 31 years old and is very cheap to maintain, not affected by salt on the roads, the only down side is 24mpg and the hear fan has died.

    I am on the look out for a tuned Rover V8 with 5spped manual to give her more omph!!!!

    Remember...Don't give in to kill joys and bean counters..

    CrestaMan

  2. Hi all,

    I rebuilt my 50 caddy lump a couple of years ago but the main rear oil seal leaks real bad. I have removed the engine but having no luck with these seals on other engines I have built previously can any one offer up some advice how to ensure how best to cut the rope seal to the correct length etc.

    Regards

    CrestaMan

  3. Thanks everyone for the advice I think that the problem may be the coil although new is a generic off the self type. But I will never be sure if this is the case as I will be fully restoring her this winter. New starter, solenoid, carb dizzy, electronic ignition etc.

    My current web page has died but you can still get to tthe 4 year old one

    http://members.fortunecity.co.uk/crestaman/

    I will try to bring it upto date and the post updates during the winter months.

    Thanks again

    CrestaMan

  4. Hi,

    I have got all new cables, contacts and switches now and I still have the same problem. One thing I have noticed is that my Scimitar has a 1/2 inch thick gaskit between the inlet manifold and the carb and she runs very hot but starts every time.....

    Does any one now what material this type of gaskit is made of as I need to make one quick as getting one shipped overwill take a while...

    Many thanks

    CrestaMan

  5. Hi all,

    Bad news on my daily fun ride to work in my '73 Reliant Scimitar. It seams that the personel department arn't to happy with my choice of car to replace the usual euro box type company car <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

    They say a 30 year old car is not a suitable vehicle (fully restored, Ford engine and running gear and fibreglass) to "represent the company image" and I must therefore have a car that is less than 5 years old.

    As visitors to my office AND people at our company offices I visit all talk about my Scimitar far more than any typical Ford, VW, Audi etc I am thinking of a brand new classic car, a Hindustan Ambassador.......

    This Indian built Izuzi powered excuse for transport is based on a 1955 Morris Oxford which we Brits exported around the world. I am of course thinking of a roof chop etc but I am not sure what engine to use. For daily use I need a modern, light, fuel injected V6/8 between 3 and 4 litres with a 5 speed manual box. I have been considering a RangeRover 3.9 V8 our perhaps an AUDI V6. What do you guys think and do you have idears on other possible engines?

    Best Regards

    CrestaMan

    PS

    I have been looking on ebay for new Thunderbirds but a bit out of my league....

  6. Hi Everybody,

    Here is on big advantage of living in the UK. My classic insurance is limited to 3000 miles but allows occasional trips to work. I have driven my '50 Caddy to work during the last 4 summers and with the current heatwave most of this week.

    As I gave up my comapny car last year I have been driving a 1973 Scimitar everyday on normal insurance and Tax, so I either cruise to work at 50 mph or blast down the motorway at 90.

    Back to the main point I will put this idear to varius clubs and magazines and see what they think..

  7. I had a similar problem with a mini, new rad, hoses and stat. I had flushed it and spent a bundle on treatments. When I took the head off some of the water passages where totally blocked. I used thick fencing wire to scape the gunge from the engine. Then I added some rust/scale remover ran it for a week, drained and added rust inhibiter.

    All worked OK until the first frost. Forgot antifreeze !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  8. Hi,

    Along with most people I am suffering the scurge of modern petrol with its low evaporation point on my 1950 Caddy (spins over for ages but sometime will start when I let go of the button) and was talking the issue over with a grease monkey at my local pub. He suggests that as these old engines where designed to run on low grade feul it should be possible to add something like parafin or kerosine to lower the evaporation point and then if required add an octaine booster.

    What do you guys think?

    Regards

    CrestaMan

  9. Hi,

    Now that the dry weather has finaly arrived MaXiMe has decided to stay in her brand new garage by burning out her new set of points. On inspection the contacts have been burnt away and the arm shows signs of severe heating. Should there be a ballast resistor and if so what make/model/rating should it be and will it need to be uprated as I am now using 12volts for the ignition circuit???. Could this heating of the points also cause slow starting when fully warm although she starts on the key when cold?

    Or should I give up and spend a 100 pounds on an electronic conversion kit <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

  10. Hi Everybody!

    I have been advised by a main dealer in classic Cadlaac parts that I have almost no chance of finding door window frame and running guides for my '50 Caddy ragtop and I will need to make new ones from scratch.

    Has any one done this and does anyone know where I can get the chrome/stainless steel trim to go over the glass?

    Regards

    CrestaMan

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