Stripgear
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Posts posted by Stripgear
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Just to confuse things more, I have a '40 block that you can have.
You'll have to talk to the "old guys" to see if it will fit.
Scott
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I've got one. Free plus shipping is about as low
as I can go.
Scott
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My renter moved out and left this in the garage. It is has a vertical starter motor connected to a hydraulic pump in the bottom reservoir. The reservoir is filled with ATF. there is a lever that when pulled, engages a relay at the top.
What do you think?
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The part Number is on the box. The '63 Wildcat sounds correct. I've attached a pic if anybody wants to see it.
Thanks
Scott
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Hi guys,
I have a NOS rear shelf and I don't know what it fits.
It's group 15.222 part# 4845554. Can anybody help?
Thanks
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I think you are refering to the Shop manual. The '52 shop manual covers the basics . The '53 only covers new features or things that were changed in '53.
Mainly the V-8 engine, new Dynaflow, 12 volt electric system, etc. So you really should have both.
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I have several conn rods from a '53 322, if they will fit.
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My father in law has a '49 Super 4 door.
It runs and drives fine, but it really needs a complete
restoration. if you want, I can get more info/pics.
Thanks
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I need a dipstick for a 61-63 Dual path transmission (for a '62 Skylark).
I would also be interested in a complete rebuildable core
if someone in central Texas has one they want to get rid of.
The Austin, Houston, San Antonio, Dallas area would be nice.
Thanks!
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I've got plenty of rims from a '53 Roadmaster. Does anyone know if they are the same?
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It's going to depend on what your rear end ratio is. My '48 super convertible came from the factory with a 4.45 to 1 ratio. That's about 3500 RPM at 60. I used to drive it about 50mph before I changed it to a 3.6 to 1. Now I have to use all the gears, but it's nice on the highway. Th older the car, the higher the numerical ratio generally speaking. The Roadmasters with the big engines also tend to have lower ratios than the supers and specials. In the late 40's early 50's Buicks tended to have 4.1-3.9 in the Specials and Supers, 3.9-3.6 in the Roadmasters.
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I have a '53 Roadmaster radiator in storage. I'll Compare measurements and get back with you next week.
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No Headers, but I've got a set a stock exhaust manifolds.
Email: mhuling(NO SPAM)@juno.com
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Dani,
I have a '48 super with the same motor. Take the freeze plugs out and get some long skinny screwdrivers and poke around everywhere you can reach.
You will be SHOCKED how much rust you will remove, particularly at the rear.
I removed almost a one pound coffee can of rust and scale about ten years ago. Now I can run it all day in the Texas heat with no problem.
I wish I could say the same!
Scott
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I have a pair, I'll email you a picture tommorrow
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You need to remove the adjusting nut. Hold the clyindrical section with vise-grips. If it's too rusty, get an air tool with a cut off wheel and cut the nut off. It's a standard fine thread, you can always chase it with a die and put a new nut on later.
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I have "most" of a '53 dynaflow. If I remember correctly, the torque converter is bad, but most everything else should be OK. e-mail mhuling@juno.com
Thanks! Scott
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My 2 cents.
1) Radials are superior to bias ply.
2) Bias ply are more sensitive to misalignment problems than radials
3) I find the bias ply tires work just fine in my '48 Super. The problem is
finding someone who KNOWS OLD CARS AND BIAS PLY TIRES! I had the same
problems as everyone else until a found an older gentlemen to align my car.
Most shops today just are just not familar with bias plys and old cars.
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Bump. Hello, Anybody here? Accepting offers, TODAY ONLY! Ha Ha...
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For Sale:
1953 Super Riviera hardtop coupe (56R). Not Running, All original, mostly complete, body is mostly rust free (rust in floorboards under front windshield)
$1100.00 as it sits. Extra parts available. Pictures available, respond here, or e-mail me mhuling@juno.com Car is in Brenham, Texas.
Thanks,
Scott
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Brake fluid is corrosive. I rebuilt my '48 56C hydralic system over 10 years ago. I used brake fluid for about 3 years but it was continually getting comtaminated. I then flushed it out and put in dexIII. I have had no problem for over 7 years. (I don't think I would try this with the original clyinders though) Brake fluid absorbs water, which rusts the inside of your pump, clyinders and lines. If a hose bursts, it can ruin your paint. Trans fluid does not do those things plus in is a lubricant. Come on over from the dark side!
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I use dexIII in my '53, no problem.<BR>You can use hydralic jack oil for the shocks.<BR>You can usually find this in quart bottles<BR>at the auto parts store.
Buick Skyhawk Vs Chev Monza
in Buick - Post War
Posted
I got you beat- I had a '76 Monza with a 262 V-8 4 speed. You had to raise
the engine to change one of the plugs on the drivers side. The steering shaft
blocked it. Also the weight of the V-8 caused the frame to slowy collapse.
Every 40,000 miles you had to get it pulled back, or you couldn't adjust the camber. I put dual exhaust and a carter AFB with an offy dual port 360 manifold on it and it would fly!
Scott