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Can anyone recommend a decent body/paint person in the central ohio area? I'll be straight forward, I'm looking for someone just to do the basics for now and get the minor repairs I need done fixed first. I'll invest in a expensive paintjob later. Thanks joseph - admin@haste.net

I've been putting some work into my older buick and I have a couple questions. (1968 buick skylark custom - http://www.phatbox.com) I remember reading a article on converting drum brakes to disc brakes but I can't remember where. Can someone post a link to that article for me? I was talking to a guy once that mentioned a older buick station wagon that had a larger rear-end that you could bolt on, run the new brake lines and upgrade the master cyl. and be up and running with disc brakes. I'm looking at all options. I've found new kits online, but I'm not looking to spend that kind of money for this upgrade. As wonderful as it is to have a car with all kinds of chrome on it.. I have a couple parts that are slightly pitted. Short of pulling the piece and have it professionally done. what can you do to get rid of these pits and keep as much shine as you can? anyone have success with home chroming kits? Anyone ever put a headliner in one of these beasts? I need to replace mine.. and I've found new replacements for around 75 bucks. How much of a pain is this?

I currently have a holley 650 dp and it's time to decide if i should rebuild it or go with a new carb. I'm running a 350 (slightly larger) and a mild cam. the car is not a daily driver but i'm not taking it to the track either. performance is my number one concern - gas usuage doesn't matter at all. but.. i want to be able to just drive the car too.. if i want to take it out for a weekend cruise i don'thave to worry about the car running too rich at lower rpms/city traffic. i've been looking at some of the 600 cfm carbs on the market and i think they'll work for what i want. but i'm asking the pros (you guys!) ;-) what would you guys do? pros / cons of rebuilding vs replacing. what's my best bet for a bolt on solution that won't require too much tuning? thanks

if i let it warm up properly and take it out for a spin heres what i get. (btw.. i had a leak in the tank and had it professionally welded/reinstalled with all new hoses. this problem didn't start until i put the new motor in). once the car is warmed up it idles perfect. if i drive normally.. just accelerate with a easy push on the gas.. no problems. i can pick-up speed fairly quickly and away i go. if i hammer the gas at a stop.. the tires will spin of course but then the car will almost right away start to bog and chug chug as it accelerates pretty slowly. there a chance the carb is dirty/junked up. it's never been cleaned since i had it and it sat twice for a while without being started for a couple months. (during my divorce) the carb was jetting for my old motor which was built more for racing (from what i was told.. i didn't build it) i know it showed the typical signs of having a healthy cam in it. i'll try the guage and see if that tells me anything. should i worry about timing or just concentrate on the jetting if it's a carb issue? what's a good starting point for jets for a fairly stock motor with headers/stock air intake?

I recently had a rebuilt motor installed in my 68 skylark. (350 v8) I have a holley 650 carb in the car with the original motor. the original motor had been rebuilt and had a pretty aggressive cam installed. we went with a slightly larger then stock cam in the rebuild. the car sat for quite a while before the rebuild and about 3 months after. i ran the car dry and put fresh/new gas in it. the car starts instantly.. no problems. i'm not getting any colored smoke (white/grey/black) out of the exhaust. just basic engine exhaust. after letting the car warm up properly.. if i try to get on it any the car responds ok at first (not like it should.. but ok) and quickly starts to bog down.. if i stay on it i'll get some backfiring and a 'chug chug chug' acceleration. If I do about a 1/2 pedal.. i can get quick accel.. and no problems. the car still has points/original type ignition. where would you start in troubleshooting this problem? I've worked on bikes in the past.. so my first instinct is the carb.. feels like it's running too rich. the plugs should all be new from the rebuild (same with the points) but honestly I haven't checked either. I want to upgrade to electronic ignition.. should i just do that anyway? if i were to replace the carb with a new carb.. what would you recommend? basically stock motor (slight overbore / slightly larger then stock cam) / headers & dual exhaust. Is there a carb that I can install with this config and not have to worry about jetting/etc? Sorry for being semi-clueless.. i'm new to working on cars but i'm trying to learn. thanks! (also.. looking for a reasonable paint guy in the ohio area) admin@haste.net

I recently had a rebuilt motor installed in my 68 skylark. (350 v8) I have a holley 650 carb in the car with the original motor. the original motor had been rebuilt and had a pretty aggressive cam installed. we went with a slightly larger then stock cam in the rebuild. the car sat for quite a while before the rebuild and about 3 months after. i ran the car dry and put fresh/new gas in it. the car starts instantly.. no problems. i'm not getting any colored smoke (white/grey/black) out of the exhaust. just basic engine exhaust. after letting the car warm up properly.. if i try to get on it any the car responds ok at first (not like it should.. but ok) and quickly starts to bog down.. if i stay on it i'll get some backfiring and a 'chug chug chug' acceleration. If I do about a 1/2 pedal.. i can get quick accel.. and no problems. the car still has points/original type ignition. where would you start in troubleshooting this problem? I've worked on bikes in the past.. so my first instinct is the carb.. feels like it's running too rich. the plugs should all be new from the rebuild (same with the points) but honestly I haven't checked either. I want to upgrade to electronic ignition.. should i just do that anyway? if i were to replace the carb with a new carb.. what would you recommend? basically stock motor (slight overbore / slightly larger then stock cam) / headers & dual exhaust. Is there a carb that I can install with this config and not have to worry about jetting/etc? Sorry for being semi-clueless.. i'm new to working on cars but i'm trying to learn. thanks! (also.. looking for a reasonable paint guy in the ohio area) admin@haste.net

I have a 68 buick skylark custom for sale - freshly professionally rebuilt motor (less then 30 miles on it) - New TCI Streetfighter transmission (less then 100 miles on it) - needs a good home where it can get some TLC! I'm willing to take cash / trade (Looking for a harley) / or combo cash/trade - I may be willing to trade for something else.. if you're interested lets talk. http://pimpster.phatbox.com has pics - email me for more info - admin@haste.net Joey

I have a 68 buick skylark custom for sale - freshly professionally rebuilt motor (less then 30 miles on it) - New TCI Streetfighter transmission (less then 100 miles on it) - needs a good home where it can get some TLC! I'm willing to take cash / trade (Looking for a harley) / or combo cash/trade - I may be willing to trade for something else.. if you're interested lets talk. http://pimpster.phatbox.com has pics - email me for more info - admin@haste.net Joey

I have a 68 buick skylark custom for sale - freshly professionally rebuilt motor (less then 30 miles on it) - New TCI Streetfighter transmission (less then 100 miles on it) - needs a good home where it can get some TLC! I'm willing to take cash / trade (Looking for a harley) / or combo cash/trade - I may be willing to trade for something else.. if you're interested lets talk. http://pimpster.phatbox.com has pics - email me for more info - admin@haste.net Joey

I just put a new rebuilt motor (from A&A Engines in columbus, ohio) with a slightly larger cam and bore. Less then 20 miles on it. I emailed the shop to see if my warranty (3yr/30k) is transferable. New TCI transmission - less then 100 miles on it. Car needs some paint work. It sat outside for a while during my divorce and the weather wasn't so nice to it. No major rust or body damage, it's pretty clean. Needs new headshell. most of the chrome is there. any questions, feel free to email me. pictures available at: http://pimpster.phatbox.com serious inquiries: admin@haste.net

I have a 68 Skylark Custom and I'm looking for a engine builder in the Ohio area to go through my existing motor and/or purchase a custom built motor. Any suggestions would be appricated.

I have a 68 skylark custom and I'd like to have someone go through the motor. I haven't checked to see if the VIN's match.. if not, I'm open to scrapping my existing motor and going with something custom. Any recommendations in the Ohio area?

1968 BUICK SKYLARK Custom (http://pimpster.carnage.org)<BR>Hardtop<BR>Fresh 350 (30k miles) cams, lifters, rockers, etc<BR>Headers<BR>Flowmaster mufflers<BR>B&M hi-perf shift kit w/rev limiter<BR>MSD ignition<BR>Holley 650 w/mechanical secondary<BR>new radiator<BR>Turbo 350 transmission<BR>10 bolt 8 1/2" posi rear end<BR>weld alum. racing rims w/great rubber<BR>clean interior<BR>fresh paint<BR>Guages<BR>more!!<BR>color: dark red <BR>asking price: $12,000.00<P>Contact: Joey - admin@haste.net for more info.<BR>