NJVetteGuy

Those setups are VERY hard to find, and usually fetch a few hundred. Try listing it on v8buick.com and it will be sold in a day or two.

I am looking for a '66 or '67 2-door Skylark or GS to restore. Doesn't have to run, NJ/PA/NY cars preferred for convenience in pickup. I am not looking for a show car, just something I can work with that's not rusted to hell. V8 cars preferred but will consider all. I'm looking to spend $2-$3k(more for a nice car that doesn't need a lot), also if anyone is interested I have a black '87 Monte Carlo SS w/t-tops for trade (or sale for 1700!). Email me njvetteguy@aol.com or call me on my cell phone (908)531-5319 Thanks, Artie

I've seen quite a few fuel gauges on ebay recently...Might want to try there.

Title says it all, I am looking for a complete 3-series posi rear, 10 or 12-bolt doesn't matter. Also looking for a 400/455 long block to build. Prefer NY/NJ/PA so I can pick up. Email me njvetteguy@aol.com or call me (908)531-5319 Thanks, Artie

Might be a good idea to check your canister purge valve also. I've seen a few have a ruptured diaphragm which allows the engine to suck raw fuel from the tank. Used to be a fairly common problem....

Throw some numbers at me, I can sell with or without the 455, drop me an email njvetteguy@aol.com <P>Thanks,<BR>Artie

Anybody??? I will take any reasonable offer into consideration.....

Here's a quick pic of the car:<BR><A HREF="http://null" TARGET=_blank>null</A>

I have decided to go after the GS I wanted in the first place, a '67 model. I have a '72 GSX Clone, red/black stripes with a good running original 350 in right now and a 455 that goes with it. The 455 is a complete engine, I also have a pair of freshly re-done '71 GS big-valve heads and most of the parts to rebuild the engine. I have all accessory brackets, HEI distributor, points distributor, new .030 over pistons, new cam/lifters, new full engine gasket set and valley pan gasket, and much more. I also have some NOS parts and most of the parts to make the car perfect. The body looks decent, no rot but there are some small spots on the right 1/4 panel where it looks like some plastic work is coming through. The car is in central NJ for anyone that wants to see, I have a line on a nice '67 GS400 right now and don't want to miss out. Drop me an email at njvetteguy@aol.com and I'll get back to you as quick as I can.<P>Thanks,<BR>Artie

I might have that in one of my books at home...if I have it, I'll email you tonight.

The Caddy 500 engine will bolt to any Buick-Olds-Pontiac TH400. I swapped a few of these motors in the past few years and never had a problem. The Caddy 500 was used in the DeVille series cars backed up with a TH400 from the factory. That block has a lot of interchange parts(externally) with the Caddy 368 and 425 engines also.

Another quick thought, check your oil pressure. I've had a few 350s that were low on oil pressure, when the oil warmed up it was too thin to keep the lifters pumped up. They'd have balls to the wall until the oil got hot. Also, do you have your vacuum advance on port vacuum or manifold vacuum? The vacuum advance should use a vacuum port located above the throttle plates for a vacuum source. If the vac. advance gets manifold vacuum(source below the throttle plate) it could potentially work opposite of its intended design and retard the timing under load. As for the choke stove, I may have that in NOS. I'll look through my parts stash and let you know. Good luck...

I wouldn't remove the "computer junk". The car will run fine with it, and depending on your state it may be illegal to remove it. If computer cars are so bad, how come my '01 Vette is doing 12s in the 1/4 with auto trans and 2.73s in the rear? I also had an '84 Camaro L69 with some mods(ported/polished heads,intake,3"cat-back exhaust and shorty headers), I kept the computer and wiring in the car with all the emissions equpment and still ran a best of 13.92 @101 with it. We mock what we don't understand....You might want to look for an Olds 455, it will be almost a direct swap with minimal headaches. You'd need an intake from a mid-'70s 455 car w/EGR to make it work for you but it'll give you a real kick in the pants. Good luck.....

You have mail....

I'd be interested in that 455 if you still have the car....

I'm going through a similar swap right now, I will have a LOT of 455 stuff left over after I'm done. If you're interested, drop me an email and tell me what you need...I might just have it!<P>Artie<BR>njvetteguy@aol.com

I'm no stranger to Harry's...I've been going out there for years, but I injured my back at work and I'm still not quite up to all the under/over work pulling a motor out there. Plus it's been toooo cold out that way lately. If I don't find anything in the next 2 weeks I'll consider it my last resort. Thanks for the reply though!

I sent you an email, I'd like to talk to you about buying the engine. I live right in NJ so I can pick up this weekend if this is convenient for you.<P>Thanks

I need a 455 short block for my project, I would like a complete short block(block,crank,pistons and rods) but I will consider a complete motor or bare block. Reply here or email me directly at njvetteguy@aol.com. Thanks!

I swapped out the points in my last GS (a cortez gold '72 350 car) with the Mallory Unilite conversion w/infrared pickup. Never a problem again with ignition, I used a Mallory super stock coil also. My plugs lasted longer and I was able to use 4 degrees more base timing. I recurved the distributor after I swapped over and it made a BIG difference in throttle response. I read above that there is a "wait to start" with the Pertronix, I never had that with the mallory. Just my $.02

Thanks for the info! I am going to go milder, with only 8.5:1 compression, .030 overbore and a stock GS cam for now. I'm backing her up with a TH350 with a 2800 stall converter and 3.73s. I just ran into a new problem though...the block I have is no good so I have to find a new one. I picked up a complete '71 motor, but it turns out the cam was snapped and damaged the rear cam bearing hole. I only paid $25 for the whole engine, with the manifolds, brackets, and all accessories still on it so I can't complain. Now it's time to start searching for a used block....

I'm picking up a 455 engine tomorrow and I'm going to use it to replace the 350 in my '72 GS. Does anyone know which brackets, etc I might need from the 455, and what will directly bolt on from the 350? I know the tranny and motor mounts will work, but I need to know about the alternator, power steering and A/C. Also, what cam do you guys think I should use in the 455 with 9.5:1 compression, 3.73 rear gears and a 2800 stall converter? I was thinking stock GS455 cam, but I would also like to do 12s in the 1/4 with this car. Thanks!

Another common problem that is sometimes overlooked is the mass airflow sensor. Through my years working on cars (I am still certified as an ASE Master w/L1 but left the field after going through school for electrical engineering) I noticed that the buick 3800 engines tend to build up a lot of "crap" on the MAF wires. On the throttle body, there are 2 phillips-head screws. Remove them, and carefully lift up the black plastic housing. Underneath, there will be what looks like 2 filaments between some solid leads. Spray them clean with gumout or equivalent, and reinstall. DO NOT touch the filaments as they are VERY fragile. You will be amazed at the driveability improvement. I also have an '88 Park Ave I use for a dailty driver, and the car is one of the most reliable I have ever owned. I removed the metal screen in the throttle body, right behind the air intake hose and it seemed to help wake up the performance a little also. If you need any more info on your car, feel free to email me privately and I'll try to help ya out. Good luck...

You'd be better off dropping in an LS1...there's quite a few LS1 F-Body cars near me that are solidly in the 11s, and a few in the 10s. My mostly stock vette just dipped into the 12s with almost no work done. Being that the '98 up F-bodies were available with the LS1 from the factory, it is a relatively easy swap. Good luck....

My '72 has the flat cover over the lenses, but no tach. I also don't have a clock. Hope this helps....